Any Warhammer 40k'ers on here?

[Garacesh]

I've found similar, it takes a bit more grunt to remove the primer. I assume they put something extra in the primer that makes it harder to break down, though it does eventually give with some vigorous scrubbing. That being said, I've been using Citadel and Army Painter spray primers, so not quite a fair comparison.

I've left a model in the spirit for 24 hours with no discernible damage to it, but I should probably add the caveat that I've also only tested this with plastic Citadel models. YMMV with resin or metal models, or models from another manufacturer.

 

Definitely do a test first! I used a wych, and a termagant I'd painted in my blue scheme and varnished as testers because I'm not too fussed about losing them.

Edited May 2, 2023 by Garacesh

[Bedders]

I've got Warhammer 40k models that I only ever undercoated with Citadel Black spray paint about 15 years ago and never painted. I'm currently in the process of stripping this so I can undercoat in grey and not lose too much detail.

On a mix of metal models and plastic ones, I leave them soaking in isopropyl alcohol for about 20-24 hours, then scrub them gently with a toothbrush, finally I use some kitchen roll to wipe the model down which removes even more of the black paint.

I've also got some models I've painted in recent weeks but didn't like the colour scheme. These I'm also clearing using the same process.

 

Touch wood there's been no damage to any of the models, nor loss of detail. I've done it to 8 models already to test it, and I've left another 7 in last night to soak until I get home today.

[Garacesh]

Well, I've been on quite the painting adventure, recently.

 

So firstly I had Tyranid Prime painted with my paint scheme 2.0, and I was happy with it for a while

 

After some reflection, though, I decided I wasn't too happy with the skin. It was too bright and too human-like, it ended up looking uncanny, but in a bad way.

So version 2.1 was made, and a second Warrior was painted with a darker skin colour.

 

I definitely think that the darker skin looks better. Very much makes them look more alien.

 

BUT (and let's admit it, we all knew there was a 'but' coming..)

Now that the Leviathan box has been announced, and all the fancy new toys 'nids are getting in a few months, I decided to try and learn some better painting techniques.

No more reliance on drybrushing, no more being afraid of edge highlighting, highlights being manually applied, some proper attempts at intermediate layers and smoother transitions, and there's even a few glazes in there!

 

So now there's a third Warrior painted, and whilst it certainly won't be earning me any Golden Demons, I'm very happy with it.

[jthompson]

I really like the effect you've achieved on the armour plating.

 

I really struggled with deciding on a colour scheme for my nids. I started with genestealers, which was perhaps a mistake because they're a little atypical where nids are concerned (not much of the hard plating).

[Garacesh]

I really like the effect you've achieved on the armour plating.

 

I really struggled with deciding on a colour scheme for my nids. I started with genestealers, which was perhaps a mistake because they're a little atypical where nids are concerned (not much of the hard plating).

The galaxy/nebula effect is actually really easy to achieve!

It does need an airbrush, but only in a really basic way.

 

Prime black, airbrush white as the nebula smoke, do some heavier airbrushing whilst obstructing part of it to make dust clouds (I use tear-offs from the cork sheet I use on the bases), then slap on blue and purple ink, mix it a little bit, job's a good'un!

 

Pretty much

, although I've ended up adding stars after the colour so they're more noticeable at tabletop distance, and I also thin my inks (I use Vallejo Game Ink Azul Blue and Vallejo Game Ink Violet) with a few drops of Lahmian Medium.

 

You can never have too many armies on the go.

I want you to know I hold you personally responsible for this

Edited May 5, 2023 by Garacesh

[Bedders]

Damn @Garacesh those look really good!

 

I've stripped down and undercoated my first batch, now that I've decided on a colour scheme. Sorry for the poor focussing I was trying out my macro lens.

 

 

 

 

 

[Bedders]

And two more images to the album at https://imgur.com/a/tvjt7hP

 

I've got all of the boots painted. Next it's the faces/hands. These 14 models are all I'm doing at the moment until I see how it looks, then I'll move on to the next batch. Having never painted before I can feel myself getting quicker.

[Garacesh]

It's quite surprising how quickly you get the hang of proper brush control. Your models are coming along great!

[ICTDirect_Dave]

I want you to know I hold you personally responsible for this

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Well done! You've taken yet another step towards financial oblivion hobby satisfaction.

[AlistairB1983]

financial oblivion hobby satisfaction.

 

Why cross through something only to write it exactly the same the second time?

[Bedders]

Why cross through something only to write it exactly the same the second time?

 

For the first time in over a decade, I went into a Games Workshop (Warhammer as it is now) store the other month with a friend. After browsing for a while I was... unsubtle... in my comments about the prices of everything. To the point that my friend actually felt awkward asking one of the staff a question because he thought I was unjustly complaining.

 

Like, Friend, are you aware how much gouging they are doing now compared to 15 years ago‽‽

 

(It may not have helped that I told him not to buy anything because our local model shop resells at about 10-20% off, and saying how this illustrates how much GW are making!)

[Garacesh]

(It may not have helped that I told him not to buy anything because our local model shop resells at about 10-20% off, and saying how this illustrates how much GW are making!)

 

A) Points for correctly using an interrobang

B) It's one of those 'well-known but never spoken' secrets that GW sell things in their own stores for ≈50% markup to what they sell wholesale, which allows third parties to significantly undercut but still turn a profit. I've even seen the wholesale prices myself from a stint at a tabletop hobby store (though that was over a decade ago now...)

 

I, personally, buy my models and paints fairly exclusively from Wayland Games as they're significantly cheaper (see the SoB purchase earlier in this thread, 76 quid as opposed to £95 from GW)

Hobby Workshop is also acceptable if WG don't have it in stock (Same box, £78.85)

 

If I'm in a GW for an extended period of time, such as playing an actual game, I might pick up a few paints or something, but I'm never going to be buying half my army there just because of the prices.

Edited May 9, 2023 by Garacesh

[ICTDirect_Dave]

It's always been the case that Games Workshop prevent resellers from advertising their products at highly discounted prices.

The GW price represents the MSRP and is what GW rigidly sticks to.

 

FLGS and other resellers used to be restricted to advertising GW products at a maximum of 20% off the MSRP. However, in recent years this I think has been reduced to 15% for the majority of products.

Resellers have always been free to price above the GW price, but cannot undercut them but more than the contracted percentage.

 

It keeps GW's margins nice and high, which in turn pays for their bricks and mortar stores. You would think it would also benefit the resellers, but they don't get huge discounts from GW, so its a race to the bottom, with them all having to offer the max discount possible in order to attract sales, but making only a tiny amount of each product as a result.

[Bedders]

Good information to know, thanks for sharing folks

 

I plan to get the skin (hands/faces) done tonight if all goes well. Maybe put a second coat of blue onto the clothes as I've only done one coat so far and there's patches.

I do think I've missed a bit of cloth on the back of their necks that I'll have to take a look at when everything else is painted. Finding it difficult to tell what is supposed to be what on some of the models when they're unpainted!

[ICTDirect_Dave]

I'm in the middle of painting a pair of Space Wolves.

 

One is the Primaris Captain from the Indomitus box set and the other is an old lead wolf guard from 1992 that teenage me used as a Wolf Lord. Both suitably upgraded with furs and new weapons.

The difference is size is staggering. That's 30 years of scale-creep for you in two minis that essentially do the same job!

 

[Bedders]

Love the Lead Wolf Guard - that model looks fantastic!

More pictures added, and I've gone through and documented it. Criticism or comments welcome but please be gentle

[ICTDirect_Dave]

Love the Lead Wolf Guard - that model looks fantastic!

More pictures added, and I've gone through and documented it. Criticism or comments welcome but please be gentle

That old metal miniature is amazing. One of my absolute favourites. Twenty-odd years ago, when I was an awful painter, he was my Wolf Lord for three trips to Warhammer World for the 40k Grand Tournament.

 

I dug him out recently. Stripped off the paint (nail polish remover ftw), removed the plastics and old base. He's now on a 32mm base which suits him better. I've sculpted a wolf pelt cloak from green stuff, added the backpack and frost sword from the space wolves plastic blood claws/wolf guard box and used a spare Wulfen shoulder pad.

 

Your Guardsmen are looking cool. I'm amazed that your use of The Fang on them looks so blue! I'm using it as the base colour for these 'Wolves and it's much darker for me.

Tip for the black guns. Don't paint them black as there's nowhere else to go shade-wise. Mix in a little white and go for a really dark grey. Then you can add a couple of washes of Nuln Oil to get the near-black textured effect.

[Bedders]

I'm using it as the base colour for these 'Wolves and it's much darker for me.

Tip for the black guns. Don't paint them black as there's nowhere else to go shade-wise. Mix in a little white and go for a really dark grey. Then you can add a couple of washes of Nuln Oil to get the near-black textured effect.

 

I've got a Grey Seer undercoat, don't know if that's made a difference? Also I've only done one coat of each paint so far, which could be why it's lighter.

 

Thanks for the advice - I think I'm going to do a different grey for the weapons. I've got Celestra Grey which I'll try first on another model that I've not undercoated to see how it looks.

[Garacesh]

Undercoat does make a difference for contrast paints, since they're largely translucent. Famously exploited by the slap-chop method.

[jthompson]

This fascinating article goes into detail about underpainting, which is basically some nice straightforward steps between undercoating and adding colour.

 

https://www.goonhammer.com/how-to-paint-everything-underpainting/

[LeMarchand]

Just had this Golden Demon Award slideshow pop up on my RSS: https://gizmodo.com/warhammer-golden-demon-2023-gallery-games-workshop-1850433671

[ICTDirect_Dave]

The Golden Daemon winners this year are truly nuts!

 

Some magnificent work.

[jthompson]

The Golden Daemon winners this year are truly nuts!

 

Some magnificent work.

 

When I first saw some of them I couldn't really see why they were winners particularly, but then you look a bit closer and notice some of the textures being achieved... whoa!

 

Not a huge fan of the non-metallic metals look which seems in vogue at the moment, particularly when it's dialled up to 11.

[Garacesh]

Not a huge fan of the non-metallic metals look which seems in vogue at the moment, particularly when it's dialled up to 11.

I have to agree, whilst it takes a lot of skill and patience to pull off NMM (I'll be trying it shortly with my Sisters, gulp!) there's some models where it's just too much.

I feel it's best used when used sparingly.

[ICTDirect_Dave]

Yep, though part of my distate could just be jealousy, I do think its one of those techniques that looks incredible when only used to accentuate the odd model.