Chris_Cook

You could try calling 17070 or 150 from the unknown line. That should tell you the number, or at least get you though to the provider. These should work even if the line isn't covered by a contract, as long as you have a dial tone. Or if its an internal extension, maybe try calling another internal number. Sometimes internal lines are run on the outside of the building and may look like BT lines.

We are using 1.4.7. Its possible something has changed in 1.6.1. Its probably just a small change to fix it though. Can you post your $period_map array, and a screen shot of the mrbs time table when it has gone wrong. Also, check you don't have a second period map set in the script, as that might confuse it. I'm not sure if its the Week, day, or period that its not picking up. They are all calculated separately. One difference we have is we use A and B weeks instead of 1 + 2. I don't think that should make a difference. There is an echo statement around line 362 that is commented out. If you un-comment this, it may help show what its doing with the day. You could also add another echo statement around line 386 to print out $period[$item] and the result of explode(":", $period[$item])[1]. That might reveal something useful about the period.

Hi mdrabble, no worries. I assume you mean its putting it in the same time/period slot? I'm not sure on the version we use. I think I tried it against a couple of different versions. I'll try and check in the morning when I'm back in. I've noticed I added a variable called $mrbs_ver_1_4_8_or_older. You probably want this set to false if you haven't done so, but I don't think this would cause the issue your having. It seems to do something with the repeat type, which changed after MRBS 1.4.8. My guess would be something around the $period_map array, check what you have in there matches the csv file you get out of sims. Its probably case sensitive. We have noticed if you don't start a term on a monday, the script gets confused, and does half your week as A and the second half as B. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on with it.

If its under 8 cameras (or DVRs) Milestone XProtect is free, just need a windows machine to host it.

I had something similar on an HP 3010 where the usb chipset drivers were wrong. In the end, I managed to remote onto the PC and change the drivers in device manager. We didn't have many of these so I haven't looked into it very far.

How about here: https://www.btowstore.com/epages/Store2_Shop1656.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Store2.Shop1656/Products/Bel0073

We've had LiveRegister here for the last year or so. No problems so far with their system. Haven't had to use there support other than for initial setup. They seem very helpful. So much better than our previous system, where we had problems at least weekly if not more often.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/RM-Replacement-Remote-Control-XJ-A140/dp/B009TTVA2U/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510072710&sr=8-3-fkmr2&keywords=casio+xj-a+remote We've used these before, and they do the job.

I'd get the oil checked or changed if its not been done in a while. It helps all the gears and clutch to slip around easier. It could be the clutch plates sticking together. If your in neutral, try pumping the clutch lever in and out a few times fast. That plus the clutch cable as already mentioned. Also I find it helps to change down whilst pulling up to a stop. That way, both sets of gears are moving. If one set has stopped, it may not mesh first time. Its hard though, Its taken me ages to get it right, and I still get it wrong on occasion.

We use cable ties or the torx screws that come with viglens. If we had a problem with component theft, I might upgrade to stainless steel ties, but mostly we want to stop mice from being swapped round and stolen. Padlocks were a faff for us, and fairly easy to break off, or pick in the case of the combination ones. CCTV is probably another solution to consider. Might not be popular with teachers and SLT.

We seem to struggle more and more with selectamark. I think plastics are more chemical resistant these days. Cheaper plastics mark better. Also, it seems to have a shelf life. Probably no good after a month. The white stuff works better if you stir it. The brush provided doesn't get to all the etching chemical at the bottom, and shaking it doesn't really mix it up well. Unfortunately, I don't have a steady enough hand for an engraver.

I did get it working at one stage, but wasn't impressed. It didn't give many benefits and added extra points of failure. Also doesn't save on management IP addresses. If I remember rightly, once you've enabled it, you have to specify an ip address subnet. So, for example, Private Net ID is 192.168.79.0, and Mask is 255.255.255.0. Note the IP address has a 0 at the end for a subnet. You'll want to pick a subnet that's not used for anything else. You need to enable the stack ports after that. As far as I know, these are just the ports you are using to link the switches. I seem to remember that some of this is only done on the master, but it was a while ago, and I can't remember exactly. It also might not build immediately, so maybe give it 10 mins or so to build the stack.

Page 11 of the manual for the nano board goes into some detail. This website can do the calculations for the resistor. LED calculator for single LEDs Increasing the number of ohms for the resistor will reduce the brightness of the led. Don't decrease below what is recommended, or you risk burning up the led. Also, you may need higher wattage resistors than normal. Essentially, the maths is R = (Vsupply – Vled) / LedCurrent V is in volts, current is amps (1000 ma = 1 Amp), So for the white one, 3.7 - 3.15 / 1 = 0.55 ohms, or 1 ohm rounded up to a common value. 2 x 1 ohm resistors in parallel would be slightly too low (0.50), but probably ok. for wattage of the resistor: P = (Vsupply – Vled) * LedCurrent Again: (3.7 - 3.15) * 1 = 0.55, or 1 watt rounded up. Maybe 2 watt to be safe. So 2 x 1 ohm, 1 watt resistors in parallel would work for white. So if you put 3.15 volts across the led, it draws 1000ma. if you put less voltage across the led - I.E. a higher value resistor, it would draw less current. The resistor is there to put the correct voltage across the led, and so limit the current.

Not really, I find somewhere that has reasonably good lighting, and put up a big sheet of white paper on the wall. The back of the paper they use on display boards works ok. Works well enough for small id card and sims photos. Our card printer screws them up anyway. Our office has a good wall outside for this as well. I crop them down to passport size, so you can't see much background anyway. The sims ones get replaced later in the first term, when the school photographer comes in. I'm often tempted to borrow some portable lights from media, but its not really my job, and I don't want to spend too long on it. I made the mistake of coming up with a quicker and more accurate way of doing it, and then we got lumbered with it.

Currently, I do them on induction day, or enrolment day, or whenever they turn up. We use a web cam on a windows 10 laptop and the built in camera app. this lets us rename them straight away so they don't get mixed up. These get cropped and added to sims, then imported into our cashless catering (live register) and our home brew registration system (soon to be replaced hopefully). We print the cards from the reg system, but I want to replace this this year with either Net 2 card designer, live register or a sims report. We found we had to put an expiry date for them to be used for student discounts.

We have Xibo in one school, running on some old Asus Eeebox PCs. The other school, I've just done Google slides and chromium in kiosk mode running on a raspberry Pi 3. Doesn't do video as well as I'd like, but for static stuff its fine. I found I needed to have a javascript to reload the slide deck every now and then, as it doesn't update itself.

If its not a daft question, Id start with looking over what you've got and what you want to achieve. Whats lacking in the current setup? Does it need replacing or expanding? Does it just need to do lessons, or performances as well? Whats the state of the current kit? Is it DMX dimmers and desk, or analog? The desk, dimmers and cabling are an important foundation. Extras like Gels, gobos and storage are also an important thing. Storage especially as it can greatly extend the life of kit. These bits add up. Making sure you have dmx lines to the lighting bars, dimmers, stage area and anywhere you want to control from would be a good basic step. Also, many modern LED and moving lights need "hard power" (basically normal mains, not what you get out of a dimmer). You would want to have either mains sockets on the ceiling, or near the dimmers with appropriate adaptor cables. Alternatively a hard power distribution box would let you patch your lighting bars in. Safe access equipment is also very important. Make sure you have a good ladder at a minimum. Basic tools are a must too. Screwdrivers, spanners and a multi-meter for checking lamps. Once those bits are sorted, then look at lights. These can be added later, or even hired in for events. Obviously you'll need some lights, so balance it all on your plan. Even older parcans and profiles can be useful if in good condition. Profiles can often be given a new lease of life by cleaning the lenses with window cleaner. Training would also be a good thing to invest in. No use having great kit if no one know how it works. Basic kit in good hands can still look great. It'd be worth talking to some suppliers. They can probably make some sensible recommendations.

Try an older version of the promethean activdriver. Install it manually and make sure you select the Serial option. Can't remember which version works, but its in another thread on this forum.

Bela Interactive also do them: https://www.btowstore.com/epages/Store2_Shop1656.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Store2.Shop1656/Products/Bel0071

At one point I was working on something with an Arduino Micro and some IR LEDs/Sensors. I gave up, because it was going to be too much work to box it up neatly for the number we wanted. Not sure what I did with the code. If you have serial control as an option, then perhaps a usb-serial adaptor and a logon/logoff script would work? Qt5 and python both have serial modules. You would need to get hold of the serial commands for your projector. I've done this for some of our digital signage screens. These days, we just charge the department for the missing remotes. Oddly, they often turn up when they find out how much they will be...

Two known problems are needing to manually re-install the driver to enable the serial driver (its not installed by default), and you need to be on an older version for it to automatically re-connect after a reboot (5.7 or 5.9 if I remember right). There are a number of versions of the boards. The first ones were serial only, the second ones had serial and usb. Later ones only had usb. The first ones have a black oval in the top left corner, the second and later ones that support usb have a smaller circle in the top left. If you have the option on your boards, I'd recommend re-wiring them with usb to avoid all the serial issues, although you still need to power them via a Serial cable. The boards that support USB have a type B socket on the back, so you just need a standard usb cable - possibly with an active extension if over 5/10 meters.

If you have two ports next to each other, you could loop them back. Just make sure you disconnect the switch first. A lot of the cheaper testers have a removable remote tester. Something like this would do: 72-2665 Network Cable Tester and Tracker for Cat5e, Cat 6e and Telephone Wire | CPC UK

I had something similar, it was the management interface on a bunch of refurbished Dell PCs we purchased last year. I think wall-mart might have been the original owners of many of these.

I quite like the 'Digital' series of cables from Cable Mountain. Fairly low cost and well made. Poor choice of name though... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Mountain-Quality-Plated-Phono/dp/B0012WXDPO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1490774468&sr=8-2&keywords=cable+mountain+phono+to+phono I would recommend this style connector over the other sort with the four outside prongs. Also look for a nice thick sturdy cable. Most of your signal issues are going to be from damaged cables or poor connections - so I would avoid the cheapest ones as they are quite thin and fragile.

It could be several things, either a 100 volt parallel system, or a combination of series and parallel wired speakers. If the total resistance of speakers is about 8 ohms, then a normal amp of suitable power would be ok. It could also just be a bodge. You might be better off replacing it all if its crusty. Probably easier that figuring it out. Its possible the amp thats there isn't the correct one. https://geoffthegreygeek.com/calculator-speakers-in-parallel/ To recommend an amp, you would need to work out how the speakers are wired, and what size/rating they are. If you wire 3 speakers in parallel, you might not be able to find a suitable amp, as the total resistance would be 2.7 ohms. Most amps would want at least a 4 ohm load.