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Posted
Those Murderpacks are evil, but I wiped the smile off an opponent's face when he dropped 3 in the midst of my Scions and I took two of them down in a turn of shooting with Plasma Guns pointed at their backs. :D

 

Yeah, you've gotta be careful with Helbrutes - try and keep their backs away from the enemy! They do some good work against tanks though, when armed with mutli-meltas :D

Posted
I quite enjoyed it and the mini's are nice too I do like the idea of have a few beers and then playing with a good group of friends not a serious game really at this point love some of the daft rules !
Posted
Fought the owner of my other gaming club in the Coulsdon 40k league yesterday (we both belong to two clubs), we fought each other to a 9-9 draw in Maelstrom. I finally have a point! :D
Posted

Played a 2500 pt battle over the weekend. I was absolutely slaughtered - only had about 5 models left on the board at the end of the game, compared to 40+ for the other side. I won though, as there were hardly any objectives that involved wiping people out! I won 10-5 on VP. They focused all their time killing me, rather than capturing objectives or following tactical objectives.

 

I did learn a bunch about how better to use my units though. :)

Posted
I hope they either A) make it like total war b) bring back base building but keep the every unit matters for certain race's gameplay e.g. marines but take the rest back to the original games!

 

I don't see them going down the first route seeing as Total War: Warhammer is in the works at the minute, it'd be nice to see a return to the first DoW though, enjoyed that more than DoW 2.

Posted

Hey guys, just thought id show off my latest 40K army I have started. you can see pics here

https://imgur.com/a/wtcvE

 

With the new codex for space marines I decided to start an Imperial First army. Its been interesting to paint so far, yellow is a bit tricky to get to the stage I like it. To make up for yellow being hard to paint and being inspired by a picture of a battle damaged and smashed up Imperial Fist Ive tried to make these look like they have been fighting for some time.

 

So far they have been my favorite army to work on. Ive got about 3000 points of Blood Angels painted and about 200 points of Eldar.

 

Hope youve enjoyed having a look.

Posted

@Badzeye: Yellow is tricky because it is a low pigment paint. I'm guessing you are undercoating from black? White is worth a try but this is another route.

 

1) Basecoat Black

2) Use a brown Base Paint (Make sure it is base, not layer)

3) Apply yellow layer paint leaving deep recesses visible

4) Apply orange wash

5) Re-apply yellow paint to flat areas of armour and edges

 

I found it worked well, try it on a test model, once you get it right you won't look back! :)

Posted

Also thin your paints :p Always thin your paints (unless you're drybrushing)

 

I used to think I was thinly coating my models as I'd always scrape excess paint back into the pot and I'd try to coat as big an area as possible without going back for more, but then I started mixing my paint with a few drops of water and it's ridiculous how much better my painting got immediately. The paint dried without any lumps and bumps, and filled out cracks and gaps properly whilst still leaving all the details intact (whereas before it would fill the gaps sometimes and make them less visible)

Posted
I have been experimenting with watering down recently. Some paints it works, some it doesn't. I tried watering base coat and it was terrible but fine when applying layer. Hard bit is finding the right mix (I'm on 7:1 paint to water at the moment). :)
Posted
Darker paints I tended to do about 2:1, lighter paints were 3:1 (Paint:Water), very rarely would I do 1:1 unless I was really being anal about keeping the tiny details. But I'd only do a few drops at a time on a plastic palette, so the paint wouldn't last long, which probably wasted paint in the long run, but gave my models a better finish.
Posted

How much you thin your paint is dependant on the effect you want to go for - I usually go for 'semi skimmed milk' thickness for general coverage and use.

If you only want to get pigment in the recesses, you can get away with thinning a LOT - that way you can create an almost 'wash' that won't cover the surfaces, but will get in the nooks and crannies.

Similarly - for putting a single dot or line on, either use neat or thin a little (to make it flow from the brush better).

 

As for basecoating - it depends on the overall 'lightness' you're going for. If you are going for light - then basecoat white (and if needed, re-basecoat areas black - as it's much easier to get a solid black over a white rather than the other way round).

 

I've also had a lot of success when highlighting by adding an off-white colour (such as cream) to the base colour instead of white - the 'change' is much more gradual and subtle making it easier to blend.

Posted
Yeah Ive been building up from white. Starting with a strong base yellow with a brown wash over the top then a couple of layers of progressively lighter yellows, I will get it eventually. Ive got the GW yellow glaze that's supposed to help the yellows blend together a bit. Ive only used it on my devastator squad and they have come out a nice solid yellow.
Posted

I still have a Wraithknight on my desk. It's so big and centrepiece that it is intimidating just to think of painting it!

 

Still not sure if I should go for my normal blue/black scheme for standard troops or the black/shadowy blue highlight reserved for Coven and elite troops.

Posted

I had the correct thinning described to me as "the consistency of melted ice-cream" and it worked a treat :p

 

I still want to buy a wraithknight to convert it, even though I've 'quit' warhammer (I'll probably end up coming back again at some point, though xD)

Posted
I've always wanted to get into Warhammer but I know nothing about it and from my understanding, it's not only expensive but also requires you to paint your own figures, which I wouldn't even begin to dare to do with expensive little guys. Plus the rule sets seem impossible to understand as a newbie :c
Posted

Find a local club, they'll introduce you and might have some second hand stuff available. Learning to paint is part of the hobby, bit of advice and you will find it easy.

 

But yeah it is pretty expensive. :(

Posted
Find a local club, they'll introduce you and might have some second hand stuff available. Learning to paint is part of the hobby, bit of advice and you will find it easy.

 

But yeah it is pretty expensive. :(

 

 

As far as expense, how much would a "small" but playable army set me back? I might have to pop into Games Workshop (I think we still have one here) and observe a few games.

Posted (edited)

Painting is actually nowhere near as hard as it looks. You think tiny models, lots of fine-detail, etc, it looks tremendously daunting. But if you start off with nothing more than a steady hand and thinned paint, you can pick it up relatively easy.

 

Things like wet blending, non-metallic metal painting and other stuff can be ridiculous to learn, but you don't need that stuff to make an army that looks better than a lot of others.

 

"small but playable", you're probably looking at around £100 for 750 points of units, another £40 for the rulebook, and I think it's around £20 for a codex? So around £150-£170 depending on your army, I'd say? Including paints, brushes, dice, blast markers, tape measure, etc. Going the whole-hog from-scratch, I'd say your initial drop is about £200

Edited by Garacesh
Posted

Ask around the store for a nearby club. The GW games are tilted in the new player's favour and at the end of the day, the store guy is a power salesman. ;) That said, the starter sets from GW are actually a pretty good deal at about £65 for two small armies, a campaign book, templates, dice and rules. Buy some plastic glue and you are sorted.

 

Someone at a club might have some second hand stuff they can sell you too. Depends, they vary club to club. Space Marines are a good first time army as there are loads of them around and easy to play. Dark Eldar are the other end of the scale being very hard to play and referred to as 40k's hard mode!

Posted

@CAM could you link me to their starter sets? On the website the only things I see for £65 include 6 figs, which I presume is nowhere near enough to field a game o.o

 

Also, why would I need plastic glue? And can you play with unpainted figures?

Posted

You need to build the models. Because they have different weapons/equipment, and there's variety for variety sake (different torsos/heads/etc) you need to glue parts together.

 

The starter kits have easier-assembled models than buying the units on their own (which is how I priced mine at, because you'll likely want weapon combinations that don't come in the starter kits) but you still need to build them.

 

You can play with unpainted armies, nobody will stop you (unless it's an official game), but it's recommended to paint them anyway

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