Photographers of Edugeek - Show us yer stuff

[tg12]

Got back from our school expedition to Morocco. 50/50 as to whether I was going to take my proper camera, glad I did in the end!

 

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The one with the green tent reminds me of one of the default wallpapers in Windows 10! Deliberate?

[psynegy]

The one with the green tent reminds me of one of the default wallpapers in Windows 10! Deliberate?

I didn't know the one you meant, but now I've gone and looked... YIKES!

[tg12]

I didn't know the one you meant, but now I've gone and looked... YIKES!

 

Even better that it's unintentional!

 

Meanwhile, here's a photo I took in Brussels last weekend that I'm quite pleased with. I was just messing around with the camera on my phone!

 

[Disease]

Got back from our school expedition to Morocco. 50/50 as to whether I was going to take my proper camera, glad I did in the end!

 

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Great photos, what kit were you using?

[Jawloms]

I tried taking some photos of the stars last night and nothing was in focus. I have a Canon 1000D. 30second exposure. They are too small in the viewfinder to tell if they're focussed, and auto-focus just seemed to be buzzing forward and back. Tips?

 

Stuart

Edited August 3, 2018 by Jawloms

[Disease]

I tried taking some photos of the stars last night and nothing was in focus. I have a Canon 1000D. 30second exposure. They are too small in the viewfinder to tell if they're focussed, and auto-focus just seemed to be buzzing forward and back. Tips?

 

Stuart

You need to stick it on manual rather than autofocus.

[Jawloms]

You need to stick it on manual rather than autofocus.

 

I got that bit, but just couldn't see if they were focussed.

[Bedders]

I got that bit, but just couldn't see if they were focussed.

 

Hook it up to a laptop so you have a decent screen. Most camera manufacturers offer software that has some functionality related to controlling the camera if you want to do it on the fly, but this obviously requires some setup!

[enjay]

Got back from our school expedition to Morocco. 50/50 as to whether I was going to take my proper camera, glad I did in the end!

 

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Are those all single-shot or have you layered multiple exposures over each other?

[mikeprice]

I tried taking some photos of the stars last night and nothing was in focus. I have a Canon 1000D. 30second exposure. They are too small in the viewfinder to tell if they're focussed, and auto-focus just seemed to be buzzing forward and back. Tips?

 

Stuart

 

Taking photos of stars needs everything on manual - lens and camera exposure etc

- and the camera on a sturdy stand

 

then the mirror needs to be locked up and the shutter released by remote

 

otherwise the mirror will wobble the camera and you finger will as well

 

Exactly how you lock the mirror up is sometimes tricky - on mine it is deep inside the menu system - behind a door marked 'beware of the leopard'

 

but it can be done

 

then you just need to take a variety of photos on different exposure times and pick the best

 

as you can probably tell - I have done this - after about a million attempts

[yurt]

 

Avionics Chassis - TSR2 by Mac Canonymous, on Flickr

[hardtailstar]

I didn't know the one you meant, but now I've gone and looked... YIKES!

But yours is better [emoji846]

[psynegy]

Are those all single-shot or have you layered multiple exposures over each other?

All single shots, no comps. The image with the tent in the foreground was done using a headtorch to 'paint' the tent with light whilst the sky was exposing. Took a good few attempts to get the right balance.

 

I tried taking some photos of the stars last night and nothing was in focus. I have a Canon 1000D. 30second exposure. They are too small in the viewfinder to tell if they're focussed, and auto-focus just seemed to be buzzing forward and back. Tips?

 

So, the way I focus for stars, is a little unorthodox, perhaps... but here it is...

 

1. LCD brightness to minimum.

2. Allow your eyes to adjust (5-10 mins is ample)

3. Find your composition through the viewfinder (if the stars are out, it should be bright enough to discern objects around you, if not, use a low intensity red light of some kind, this helps to preserve your night vision)

4. Lock your zoom at the correct focal length for your composition (use some gaffa tape, whatever)

5. Find the brightest star you can in the night sky point the camera directly at that, then with the lens in MF, rotate the focus ring until the star is as small (or in focus, if you prefer) as you can make it.

5 alt. If you have a camera with live view, and the option to digitally zoom whilst in live view, this is the time to use that feature. Again by pointing at the brightest star, this makes it super easy. I use Magic Lantern custom firmware on my camera, but I think it might be possible on stock, not sure, it's been a while since I've used stock.

 

Vague guide camera settings:

- Exposure: use the 500 rule: 500 / focal length of lens = max seconds you can shoot without streaking. (e.g. 500/16mm = ~31seconds) (less is obviously fine too)

- Aperture: as wide as possible. (small f number)

- ISO: totally camera and conditions dependant, trial and error, but likely quite high

- WB: doesn't matter, shoot in RAW.

 

As for locking your mirror up and using a remote for shooting... I'm not convinced. You're exposing for say, 30 seconds, so you're talking about reducing shake for say, 100th of a second... or 0.03% of your overall exposure. In any case, I didn't bother. I do use a 2 second delay so at least I'm not touching the camera when it's exposing. I suppose if you're using a lighter weight camera, this may have a bigger impact, so I can see that being an issue. My camera+lens weigh in at 1.4kg, so it doesn't concern me too much.

 

The absolute most important thing is weather conditions. You want minimal haze and light pollution. I haven't had any real success down in the south of the UK, you may be able to find places further north where the population density is lower. These pictures were from out in the Altas Mountains, at least a 5 hour hike from the nearest town.

 

Random tip: big rubber bands. Lenses aren't really designed to work pointed straight up, and often suffer from lens droop. Some rubber bands can help keep things where you set them.

 

Great photos, what kit were you using?

 

I'm currently running a Canon 6D with a 16-35mm f/2.8 L II. We were hiking/camping, so lightweight was critical, so I picked up a Manfrotto PIXI EVO 2-Section Mini Tripod - which worked a treat.

 

But yours is better [emoji846]

You're too kind, thank you.

Edited August 4, 2018 by psynegy

[ricki]

Moths mating

[enjay]

As for locking your mirror up and using a remote for shooting... I'm not convinced. You're exposing for say, 30 seconds, so you're talking about reducing shake for say, 100th of a second... or 0.03% of your overall exposure. In any case, I didn't bother. I do use a 2 second delay so at least I'm not touching the camera when it's exposing

 

Same thing. Whether you trigger the exposure with a remote or a delayed timer, you're ensuring you don't shake it when the exposure starts.

[enjay]

- Exposure: use the 500 rule: 500 / focal length of lens = max seconds you can shoot without streaking. (e.g. 500/16mm = ~31seconds) (less is obviously fine too)

 

I'm impressed if you can hold a camera that steady for 30 seconds. I go for a tripod for anything longer a few seconds.

[psynegy]

I'm impressed if you can hold a camera that steady for 30 seconds. I go for a tripod for anything longer a few seconds.

I'm impressed that you can hold a camera steady for more than 1/50th of a second! I know I can't!

 

Camera should always be tripod mounted for photographing stars. You should literally be not touching it.

 

This rule is about calculating the maximum length of time you can expose for (for any given focal length) before the stars will have moved enough to cause streaking. Sometimes streaking is desired though, but this is often achieved by 'stacking'.

Edited August 6, 2018 by psynegy

[tg12]

Camera should always be tripod mounted for photographing stars. You should literally be not touching it.

 

One tip that I was given if this isn't possible, e.g. no remote shutter, is to hold a piece of white card over the lens while you do touch the camera. But definitely if you can get away with not doing so, much better.

[hardtailstar]

Went to Port Lympne in Kent yesterday, All bar the Wallaby shot, these were all taken on the really bumpy safari ride so Im impressed they came out ok!

 

 

 

 

 

[Dos_Box]

Got an Airbus A400M doing circuits into Warton this morning. I live under the flightpath so always get some interesting things coming over.

 

Edited August 10, 2018 by Dos_Box

[ICTDirect_Dave]

Got an Airbus A400M doing circuits into Warton this morning. I live under the flightpath so always get some interesting things coming over.

 

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There were a bunch of interesting non-eurofighter jets coming past last week too.

[tg12]

A selection from my weekend at Silverstone. I feel like my skills have definitely come another step this year. There's definite progress if you compare them to the photos from my last 4 visits!

 

[Mewdewgooboofoo]

Photo i tool a while back and did a bit of editing after.

[36Degrees]

Photo i tool a while back and did a bit of editing after.

 

Love that place!

[JATSO]

One of those awkward shots of a huge building close up. York Minster on Saturday. Samsung S7.