Chris_Cook

We have similar turnstiles here. There is anti-passback support in Net2, but if the student doesn't make it through the turnstile before it resets, then they wont be able to get in. The only effective way is to have someone monitor it, or get them RFID chipped like you can with pets.

Definitely needs a drip loop. I'm not fond of plastic cable ties as they break after a few years when outside in the sunlight. It should probably have 2 fixing points minimum (every 30 cm on horizontal cables, 40cm on vertical), and something better with the edge of the roof. Another fixing point would help stop movement and rubbing. https://www.walraven.com/en/about-walraven/news/18th-edition/ What sort of height is that at? if its a low single story building, then I'd want something to protect it from damage if its critical or security related. This really depends on the environment though.

The problem I'm finding with a lot of these older desks is that the faders are now quite hard to come by. Its also worth bearing in mind that if some faders are going bad, then more are likely to follow. Its probably best to go to Zero 88 and see if they can recommend someone. Avolites have some guidance on cleaning faders which might help if they are just dirty. https://www.avolites.com/support/faders/ With similar age consoles, i've often fixed random issues by firmly pressing on all the connections inside (Including any chips mounted in sockets). For wired connectors, unplug and re-plug them. This is usually enough to clear any corrosion, or re-connect if they have bounced out of the socket. Before going too far with paying for repair, it might be worth costing up replacing the desk with something more up to date like the FLX S24.

We've started using Synology Surveillance Station over the summer and that's working well for us. A bit costly, but worth it i think. What I quite like is being able to add NAS boxes to the cluster to expand the system whilst still having one front end. They have their own cameras now, as well as a little 1u rack mount NAS, and a CCTV monitoring station/PC for reception screens etc. The other option I saw the other day was the Vista range by Norbain. https://www.onlinesecurityproducts.co.uk/search/for/vista/ They have some DVRs (that support IP cameras) and their own IP cameras. Costs look pretty good to me.

Not sure where you are based, but Click on IT London did ours: https://www.clickonitlondon.co.uk/

Comms express are good,

Old doesn't necessarily mean bad, but there are plenty of dodgy installs out there, especially from the 80's and 90's. Some are obvious, some look ok until you realise its all running off a 32a supply when it should be 4 times that or more. Mice can get into the cabling and eat away the insulation. Electronics in dimmers can go bad. Insulation in some fixtures can deteriorate with heat, especially if they've been rewired incorrectly and wires routed wrongly. We've got some Patt 23 spots still in use (I think from the 50's) but they've been re-wired properly. Its a shame they don't have the stands with them as they would probably pay for the new installation if we sold them. The cost and time of re-wiring lights generally isn't feasible for schools these days, unless you know someone. Starting from scratch, I'd really recommend getting an expert in to look and come up with a plan. Its far too easy to get something that's rubbish, or has little life left in it when it would be better to have put the money towards something better. There's a lot of junk on the market especially with LEDs. It would be a good idea to look at what the system will be needed for. If you only need spotlights for assemblies and talks, or a stage wash. You could add more later. You might be able to get your electricians to fit a couple of LED Spots bolted to the ceiling, and do the power and data (DMX can be run over Cat5e or better, and is more future proof with Art-net and similar technologies.) A little 6 channel desk or architectural wall mount DMX controller might be a start for the control. Old Avolites Pearls aren't that pricy on ebay, but parts are getting harder to find. I'd generally avoid an older lighting desk as the faders will probably need replacing. Again, faders are getting harder to find. You also need to know someone who knows how to solder. The Zero 88 FLX range are good if you want something that's going to last, and work well with LEDs. You might be able to go somewhere like David Fitch Services and see what they have in terms of second hand equipment. There are some good deals out there, but get some advice from someone who knows what they are looking at.

Its probably worth checking the firmware updates on these older phones. Yealink W52's arn't officially supported anymore on 3cx. They still work if you manually provision the bases though. That said, I'd happily recommend them otherwise - they've done us well for the last 5 years. Worth pondering in these days of Cyber security insurance. The Yealink desk phones have wifi and dect modules available. Didn't seem to work well on our school wifi, but we didn't spend that long on it. Would probably work well on a home system though.

Same as above really. I'd isolate them from the mains as they may want to do some testing on the wires (or wire the phases wrong). This will also help the electricians. I'd shutdown the UPS so it doesn't discharge the battery. On APC you hold down the power button IIRC. Obviously shutdown any servers first. Switches will generally cope well with just being turned off. If they needed a shutdown option there would be one. Lastly (or firstly) make sure you have time scheduled in after power has been restored, but before your users come back so you can run round and test PCs and other items. Probably worth having a backup plan incase a switch does die, but that should probably be in place anyway. Our switches have been through plenty of power cuts and generally the only thing that goes wrong is the config not having been saved. This is one of the joys of Unifi - it automatically saves.

You could try somewhere like Flightcase warehouse https://www.flightcasewarehouse.co.uk/

You need to think about what types of devices and users you have on your network, and how you want to separate and firewall them off. So for example, BYOD, Staff, Student, Guest, BMS systems and Boilers, CCTV, Access Ctrl, Switches and servers etc I'd recommend not having too many. Also consider how many devices might be on each vlan. You might not have many student devices now, but what if the school grows, or students start connecting phones, laptops as well as the your student IT rooms? Changing this in the future might be complex. You might also have to discuss with your ISP how to do the routing between the networks and the wider internet. Some things like BMS and CCTV cameras might not need to be on a routable subnet if everything goes back to 1 recorder/server. You can normally add a second interface onto this vlan (Either trunked or as a second Physical interface)

Inkscape maybe? I've got a logical diagram somewhere that was done in Excel (yes you read that right - done by a predecessor). It took me a while to realise there is a pen tool in excel for doing the borders that they used for the links. Daft, but it kind of works.

We've used Live Register here for a number of years now. Works great, rarely have to call the tech support, but its there and good if we need it. Wouldn't want to change.

Is there a slider on the projector for sideways keystone correction? Its near the lens on the top (Bottom if on ceiling). My guess would be that something has happened to that. Maybe try running it side to side a few times and then putting it back to center. Fully agree with you on Quick corner. I wouldn't buy a projector anymore if it didn't have either this or H + V Lens shift.

Isn't it just in "Server Manager" -> "Configure this server", and then click on the server name?

I'm not a qualified spark, but can I suggest looking at some reputable youtube channels: https://www.youtube.com/@GSHElectrical https://www.youtube.com/@efixx https://www.youtube.com/@NBundyElectrical They have videos on how to and not to do this as well as the testing required. Most domestic circuits are rings (return to the fuse board), or radials (daisy chained). You shouldn't have more than one thing split off of ether at any one point really. Largely as it can make fault finding difficult and you can overload things if someone adds extras in the future. Typically you take your Live Neutral and earth to the light fitting, and then a twin and cpc cable back to the switch. The neutral cable then needs to be marked as live with brown tape or sleeve. Alternately you take the live neutral and earth to the switch and then run all three to the fitting, with the switch interrupting the live wire. If you have a 3 way switch then link the live from the first switch to the second and then the third. Your neutrals and earths can then be split at this point using wagos or similar. Its worth documenting this and leaving something behind next to the fuse board. Whilst you don't have to provide an earth if your fixtures are double insulated, if you are running new cable its strongly recommended. Otherwise if you change to an earthed fitting all the cable needs stripping out. The earths should be linked through at each point. If you have metal back boxes, then these should be earthed as the screw heads could potentially become live if there is a loose wire. If this is is all new cable, then it doesn't make sense to skip on the earths. Its cheaper now, but will need to be re-done at a later date. I'd recommend using proper Wago or Ideal leaver connectors rather than the cheap stuff on amazon. Its been through proper testing, where as some of this other stuff may not have been. Don't bother with screw terminals any more. All these types of connector need to be in an approved junction box, not just taped up. Cables run over head need to be fixed with non-combustible metal fixings, not the old plastic clips. Its really worth reading up on "proving dead" and why you need proper testers before you test this with a multi-meter (or not even that). Also remember that electricity and falls from height are the 2 biggest killers in industry.

That sounds about right. It used to be on 4 DVDs.

Have you installed the Sibelius sounds package? Also try changing the audio output to wasapi. I've been looking at this today for our new music suite, so I'll try and do some documents and post back here as getting to those settings wasn't obvious for me. Once you have the sounds package installed you should be able to change the sound config on the play tab. But there are some other settings that are a bit hidden.

We had some vandalism overnight a couple of summers back. Students threw bricks and paving slabs at our windows for a few nights in a row. We managed to identify one of the students by tying up the Wifi radius logs with the CCTV. If you let your students connect their phones to the school wifi, it might be worth checking these logs.

Not used Ryobi much, but I get the impression its at the better end of the DIY market. The drill I borrowed from one of our site managers seemed pretty decent. If the batteries are similar to the Worx ones I use, then they should be compatible with the different sizes, but there is a tradeoff between runtime and weight/size. For a drill, a smaller battery works well as you are holding the drill up in the air, and typically not using it continuously for a long period. for a mower/strimmer/jetwash, a larger battery battery would be better. But my 2Ah batteries are enough to run the strimmer over my small lawn, or jetwash a couple of motorbikes. Lithium batteries have a surprising amount of power in them. Its probably best to get the mower with the 4ah batteries and then get the drill without if possible. Some of the mowers also seem to take 2 batteries, so that might be worth checking.

Spitfire are good.

I'd say the same as others have. You'd get maybe 1 or 2 devices that are usable once cleaned up. The rest of it will have to go in the WEEE Bin. You may also get some who change there mind and want it back, or forgot to back something up. If you do do it, then defiantly set a minimum spec and include some instructions on how to check this. Most people will just remember they brought a 'good' PC not that long ago, whereas it will have a budget processor from 10 years ago. Its very generous that people want(ed) to donate, but its more work than its worth, even just to quiz the owner as to what they have. ICT Direct and others have some really good deals. If you do do the refurb option, then you need a long term strategy of how you are going to fund things in the future. If you run a mix of refurb and new(er), then you might get an even bigger problem in a few years when it all needs replacing in one go. Might not be a great option for primary, but perhaps you can offer a chromebook/ipad purchase scheme through the school, where parents buy the device, you manage the devices and the students can take them home?

Is this what you are looking for? https://www.retex.es/en/product/lock-and-bolt-set-standard/ https://www.anixter.com/en_gb/products/32215200/RETEX-S-A-/Hand-Tools/p/543744 I'm not sure if you can buy direct from anixter, or if you have to find an installer with an account. Maybe whoever does your alarms/entry systems might be able to order it for you. I'd probably just measure up the diameter and length of the lock and order some camlocks from amazon.

Is there a number on the lock? Have you got a picture of the lock?

I'm presuming you are on SSDs? Are these big enough, or failing? Its possible to clear out the profiles too frequently, if students re-use the same PCs every other week for example. Are the logins slow all the time, or just during lesson changeover periods?