difinity

You're welcome. You can measure the current draw with a multimeter as long as it can measure DC amps. It's connected in series. Here's a video to demonstrate. Do it for both the head unit then amp. Start with the volume on the head unit low then turn up the volume.

So you've building everything into one box, like an old skool ghetto blaster ? That's not ideal as treble is directional, those speakers should be up high pointing down a little. Doesn't matter about the bass. I think you'll need to sort some sort of ventilation if you haven't already. Before picking a power supply you should verify the head unit is working. If it's faulty, you're just throwing good money after bad. Those ratings are for the fuse in case there is a short not a representation of it's power. It's a 12v power supply @elsiegee40

This stereo ? In Dash One Din LCD Screen Single Din DAB Car Stereo | Xtrons It doesn't make sense to me to buy a £100 power supply for a £70 car stereo. It's massive overkill also. I've just put a Chinese 240W stereo on my bench power supply, turned up full volume with two speakers connected. It's drawing 1.68A from my bench power supply. China watts aren't real watts. Remove the amp and connect the stereo to your car battery if you want to test it's ok before spending any money on power supplies. I have several house amps and an A/V receiver. None have cost over £100.

A higher temperature will result in a lower humidity this I'm guessing reduces oxidisation on the hard drive PCB contacts that the data passes through. I've fixed quite a few drives with just a pencil rubber.

I've tried all the glues I can find to hold those brass nuts when they get snapped off especially where the hinge is held in the base. I've tried many different types of epoxies and glues but there is always some give and they don't hold. Then I was told about toilet paper and superglue. It's not pretty, but It's strong enough to hold the hinge for a laptop lid. I have used it on both teachers and my friend's teenage daughter. Neither known for being particularly gentle. Both holding 6 months on. Tear into small pieces, soak with cyanoacrylate and press and compact with a small pokey tool, I use a large needle. Sets like rock in a minute. I also use EMA Plastic Weld (available on ebay) administered through a hypodermic needle for fixing cracks, it melts the surface.

If they are easily accessible and you have another of these screens, swap the boards one at a time to identify which is faulty. No point in buying both boards.

How hard would it be to remove the power supply and the PCB ? Sending them off to be repaired would cost a fraction of that £925.

Are there any markings on the back or near the power socket to indicate the voltage and amp requirements.

If you look at the second hand NAS market just remember there were some faulty Atom C2000 cpus used that were prematurely dying, revealed a year ago. https://www.theregister.co.uk/2017/02/06/cisco_intel_decline_to_link_product_warning_to_faulty_chip/

Maplin's demise has been rumbling on for a while now. Free next day delivery from RS is my first choice then CPC followed by Farnell.

No real risk fire wise but powering the head unit with "dirty" power will shorten the life of the main capacitor in it quite significantly as what it's receiving is out of spec for it. I think the noise you are hearing is the pulses of the PWM controller as it chops the voltage down to 12V. There were smoothing capacitors in mine (I repaired it at the weekend) but they aren't very big. They also don't have to be as it's just for LED lighting. I would think the typical buyer of these to power head units prefer loud to quiet music so reviews should be taken with a pinch of salt. There are a few cheaper alternatives to the one 3-gstech suggested, at that price you could buy several second hand proper house amps.

Is it not on an adjustable bracket like a car alternator that can be slacked off then tightened once the belt is on ? If not use a screwdriver (not fingers) to lever onto the pulley whilst turning, it should pull the belt on.

Dead suggests it could be one of the TVS diodes that has failed. There's one of the 5v and one on the 12v line usually on the PCB. Removing the PCB and checking won't do anything to upset professional data recovery. You'll need a multimeter to check. Whilst you have the PCB off, check the contacts for corrosion, a rub with a pencil eraser will clean them.

My friend picked these up at the weekend.

I politely inform any cold caller that I'm on the TPS and then ask them if they are aware unsolicited calls can result in a fine from the ICO of up to half a million pounds. I then ask for their name and the company name. There is usually a short pause before the line goes dead.

No, but there are plugins that allow it to export to an STL file I believe. Sketchup to STL

I bought a camera for my microscope but it has to much zoom. A different reduction lens is almost the same price as the camera and lens cost me.

Agreed, unusual for a desktop motherboard to not be able to clear the password, but the norm with laptops. You don't need a manual to show you were the BIOS chip is located (they are easily identified) I imagine it's soldered not in a socket though. Can you boot from CD/DVD ? there are a few BIOS password wiping utilities you can try. Maybe try removing the battery, how I've always done it if I can't find the jumper.

I've done this also. Step 1 ring the council, tell them what you plans are. They informed me I can't just stick an RSJ in even if my builder has 20+ years experience. They need to see a surveyors report. This was 5 pages of calculations the short of it being the foundations and their thickness. Cost around £250. Too thin and I need to did a hole in the foundation and fill with concrete to rest the new load bearing block column on. The council wanted to see my hole and that it was the correct size and then inspect the wall with RSJ on before it's covered/plastered. The council then signs off the work and you're all covered legally and have the all important paperwork when you come to sell.

Toshiba are 1 5.5mm x 2.5mm jack.

Something like this in a larger project box ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15cm-USB-2-0-Panel-Mount-Printer-B-Female-To-A-Female-Socket-Black-008743/262891742700?, or I'd just solder something together to produce similar depending on the external USB connection required. USB B being a more durable socket than micro USB, especially if travelling.

So you want a switch that's usually on but push it to break the circuit ? 5 x Black On(Off) Miniature Momentary Push to Break Switch SPST | eBay

If your mouse uses the small square microswitches rather than those rectangular ones, replace them with silent switches from Kailh, available on Ebay or Ali. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-Repair-Accesseries-Kailh-Mute-Mouse-Micro-Switch-Mice-Button-8-Million-Clicks/272037454256?epid=1550807785&hash=item3f56b221b0

The usual rate I'd guess, unless he happened to be a business partner with the man that could sign off extra large pay cheques without the governors being aware.

I believe money for HSBC accounts can be paid in at the Post Office. That's what I was told by First Direct when I rang and moaned my local branch had been closed. Might be worth a check to save the drive.