Jumpstart a car with a 308

[Rawns]

An odd question really. I've jump started a couple of cars in my life time with no issues. The wife's 206 battery is flat since the cold spell and I've cracked out the jump leads. The problem is on my 308. the battery has a visible red + terminal, but no sign at all of the black - connector so I'm at a loss as where to connect the black lead to! Any ideas?

[sted]

is it just under some silly plastic cover?

[Rawns]

is it just under some silly plastic cover?

 

I did think that at first as the red + terminal is under a little plastic "lid" however I have scoured the case and there is no other hidden compartment!

[SYNACK]

The terminals are different sizes and it should be written on the battery, just check the one that does have markings and you should be able to tell.

[twin--turbo]

a 208 and a 308 Ferrari , Nice

 

 

There must be a negative, hidden under a cover. Alternativly use a good clean metal part of the engine like the mounts.

 

TT

[twin--turbo]

Google

[Chris_Jones]

When I read the title, I pictured you jumpstarting a car using one of these

[SYNACK]

Oops, re-read. You should not be connecting the jump leads to the negative on the battery but rather a metal point on the chassis like the engine block. Otherwise you are in danger of cooking the ECU even with surge protected leads.

[mac_shinobi]

So if you have a car that has both terminals ( positive and negative ) is it still bad to connect the negative jump lead to the negative terminal on the car that has the flat battery ?

 

How are you supposed to connect the jumper cable ( both positive and negative leads ) between both cars when jump starting ?

 

Working car --> Both positive and negative connected to positive and negative on battery --> non working car ( flat battery ) --> positive lead to battery and negative lead to engine block ?

 

If not then how exactly ?

[Rawns]

So if you have a car that has both terminals ( positive and negative ) is it still bad to connect the negative jump lead to the negative terminal on the car that has the flat battery ?

 

How are you supposed to connect the jumper cable ( both positive and negative leads ) between both cars when jump starting ?

 

Working car --> Both positive and negative connected to positive and negative on battery --> non working car ( flat battery ) --> positive lead to battery and negative lead to engine block ?

 

If not then how exactly ?

 

My situation is the other way. 206 with flat battery (both + and - terminals) - 308 with working battery (+ terminal and presumably - on engine block). So I would assume connecting the 206 - terminal to my 308 engine block will still allow me to successfully jump the 206 into life?

[sted]

So if you have a car that has both terminals ( positive and negative ) is it still bad to connect the negative jump lead to the negative terminal on the car that has the flat battery ?

ive heard this before that ecus dont like this being done which is one of the reasons you can get trickle charge starters that plug into the fag lighter socket.

[mac_shinobi]

My first post is probably side stepping a bit as was just asking generally how you are supposed to jump start a car with a duff / dead battery ?

 

Not come across or heard of it being bad for the ECU to connect the jumper leads between both batteries ie positive red cable going between both positive terminals on both batteries and the same for the negative but obviously between the negative terminals on both batteries.

[andyrite]

Halfords Advice Centre | How to Jump Start a Car

[SYNACK]

Have donor car running and connect engine block to engine block with negative then connect positive to donor positive terminal then to dead positive terminal. Leave donor running for a little bit to get a little charge in the dead battery so it does not act as a current drain during starting and cause itself more damage by trying to draw out whatever little current may be left causing more such Sulphation of the terminals.

 

Keep donor running while starting dead car.

 

... Profit :-)

 

Edit, red to red first apparently from above but I'd do the rest as I describe, has worked for me many times when jumping tens of late model cars for staff.

Edited January 22, 2013 by SYNACK

[mac_shinobi]

Been doing it slightly wrong for a while then ( have always connected both batteries together so negative terminal to negative terminal and positive terminal to positive terminal )

 

How come you connect negative on working battery / car to metal ie bolt / engine block on non working car ?

[HarryMonkey]

However you connect the negative terminal (battery to block etc) ALWAYS make sure you connect the positive terminals first. Given the amount of metal around, there is a chance you could catch a connected lead on the metal of the car. If the positives are connected first you are less likely to create a short and cause any damage.

[Sirbendy]

yep. Positives first, then negative on donor to chassis/block on the duffer. Guessing maybe less risk of spark and hydrogen bang, given that a running/charging battery can produce it..?

 

Mine has been sat under snow since friday..yesterday the battery monitor LED was orange, so I plugged it into my 12v SLA/lead acid bank that the solar panel maintains and left it to sit for an hour or so. This morning..monitor showing flashing green (at least 12.5v) it turned over a little slowly (-6 overnight) but fired up happily. The alternator may be on the way out though..it whined for a good 5 seconds before shutting up and kicking some output in. Ah well, I have a spare.

[Rawns]

yep. Positives first, then negative on donor to chassis/block on the duffer. Guessing maybe less risk of spark and hydrogen bang, given that a running/charging battery can produce it..?

 

Mine has been sat under snow since friday..yesterday the battery monitor LED was orange, so I plugged it into my 12v SLA/lead acid bank that the solar panel maintains and left it to sit for an hour or so. This morning..monitor showing flashing green (at least 12.5v) it turned over a little slowly (-6 overnight) but fired up happily. The alternator may be on the way out though..it whined for a good 5 seconds before shutting up and kicking some output in. Ah well, I have a spare.

 

What if the doner car does not have a standard negative terminal to connect to but the dead car does?

Edited January 22, 2013 by Rawns

[dave.81]

First i've ever heard of the ECU problem i've never had a issue with any of my cars doing this, seems 99% of the people doing it have just been lucky then.

[Sirbendy]

Chassis then. Main chassis member or gearbox/engine block. All connect to the negative on the battery.. I usually use the bonnet slam panel, or the under-engine subframe.

[mac_shinobi]

Also check de-ionised water levels on your car battery ?? Presume all if not most car batteries use de-ionised liquid in them ?

[SYNACK]

Also check de-ionised water levels on your car battery ?? Presume all if not most car batteries use de-ionised liquid in them ?

 

Lots are sealed now so short of cutting it open your choices are, recharge, recondition, replace.

[twin--turbo]

First i've ever heard of the ECU problem i've never had a issue with any of my cars doing this, seems 99% of the people doing it have just been lucky then.

 

 

I think it's a precaution, though never heard of anyone having issues and having been on car forums for 10 years I think it may have cropped up.

 

Sometimes it's very difficult to find a good clean bit of metal.

 

Rob

[Andrew_C]

The battery must have a negative terminal... Where is it? I've never seen under the bonnet of a 308.

[mac_shinobi]

Lots are sealed now so short of cutting it open your choices are, recharge, recondition, replace.

 

That's what you get for buying a french car /Sarcasm

 

My battery has the screwable tops for the de-ionised liquid but like you say re-charge / recondition or replace