Hightower Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 Hi all, Don't have a clue about cars, but a few here seem to so I'll post my problems in the hope someone can point me in the right direction. On a cold morning (this morning for example) it will take 10-20 seconds to turn over. Once warm it starts fine. So what could it be? In the last 6 months I've had a new fuel filter, a new air filter, new glow plugs, and a new glow relay thingy majiggy. It started around jan of this year, but with the summer being here the problems weren't as bad so has gone forgotten until now. Need more info, please just ask.
newpersn Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 Battery alright in the car? Guessing its diesel. Might be worth getting it checked at a garage. I now own a diesel so might have a same problem in time
bondbill2k2 Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 Was going to say starter motor or solenoid but that shouldnt be affected too much by heat, i'll ask a car mad mate later! Battery would be a big possability, they tend to become less efficant and 'leek' charge alot more in the cold, as newpersn said diesels are much more prone to this
bladedanny Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 Hi all, Don't have a clue about cars, but a few here seem to so I'll post my problems in the hope someone can point me in the right direction. On a cold morning (this morning for example) it will take 10-20 seconds to turn over. Once warm it starts fine. So what could it be? In the last 6 months I've had a new fuel filter, a new air filter, new glow plugs, and a new glow relay thingy majiggy. It started around jan of this year, but with the summer being here the problems weren't as bad so has gone forgotten until now. Need more info, please just ask. When mine did this it was the Glow Plugs, as you have said you've changed them, are they getting power? One 'trick' I used to use was to turn ignition so the glow plug lit, turn it off then on again (the IT way of doing things) so they had at least two charges. Failing that I had some spray that I used to spray into the intake that used to start first time.
Oaktech Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 battery, or the charging thereof (alternator) or if it's a diesel perhaps the wax stat / thermostat that tells the glowplugs how cold it is and therefore how long to heat for?
Andrew_C Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 I'd look at the battery first. Easier to check than glow plugs. Then glow plugs. Then take it to a proper man!
K.C.Leblanc Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 I know is sounds odd, but do the interior lights work correctly? Some diesels start the glow plugs when you unlock the car or open the door. Are you waiting for the glow plug light to go out before you start the car? Also does it have an external temperature gauge? Is this giving accurate information? The temperature sensor will also give data to the car's engine management unit. What sort of car is it, and how old.
newpersn Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 what car is it? I got a 04 Reno Laguna with a card start (push start), It wont let me start the car until it does a glow plug cyle. and if i leave it long enough it will do it again.
SYNACK Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 As above, battery, corrosion/looseness on the battery contacts. Grounding points, there are several that pass current into the chassie and if these have corroded it will make the car sluggish to start by putting more strain on the electrical system, this coupled with the battery would cause difficulty starting.
BenABF Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 Could be an air leak or a blocked filter in the pickup at the fuel tank end?
broc Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 Is there a glow plug 'heater' warning light (amber) that comes on when you turn the key & goes out after a short while? Are you waiting for it to go out? How old is the car & how old is the battery? If it is more than 4-5 years old I would begin to suspect this, as others have suggested.
kevbaz Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 a new battery will sort it or borrow somones charger and charge it overnight
Hightower Posted October 18, 2011 Author Posted October 18, 2011 Ah, forgot to say it had a brand new heavy duty battery fitted about 6 months ago. It's a 53 plate Astra 1.7CDTi. Also, the external temp sensor never worked but never caused a problem in the 1st and 2nd winter I had the car. However, this was fixed last week (and gives accurate info!) but still hasn't improved it. As for heater lamp, it stays on for around 2 seconds at 4 degrees (this mornings temp). I waited for around 15 seconds before attempting to turn the engine over. Also, before I attempted this I turned off and then on again so the glow plug lamp comes on again 3 times just to try and make sure. So my procedure this morning was: Turn on, wait 15 seconds turn off Turn straight back on, wait 2 seconds, turn off Turn straight back on, wait 2 seconds, turn off Turn straight back on, wait 2 seconds Attempt to turn engine over.
Hightower Posted October 18, 2011 Author Posted October 18, 2011 Also, it was in for an MOT last week, and a friend does the work. He had it hooked up to the machine as I told him about it and there were no error codes on the machine - he said nothing stood out as a problem. Hope I don't have to take it to a diesel fitter as that will end up costing a fortune!
Hightower Posted October 18, 2011 Author Posted October 18, 2011 Also, I can get my hands on a 95' Nissan Largo Road Star for £1250 - the 2litre diesel version. These motors are going for £3-4k normally. Anybody think it's time for a change?
SYNACK Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 Has anyone hooked it up to an to an ODBC (or whatever the acryonym is for the car dignostic port) reader and checked for error codes. It could just be a faulty sensor or lead.
Davit2005 Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 May not be same but I had really strange issue with Astra 54 plate CDTi. Car would sometimes stall about 10mins after starting. Then jus before 100 mile trip home after a busy day out in field it would not start at all. First we thought it was Imoboliser but after many workshop hours turned out to be fuel pump. The AA with all the test equipment failed to diagnose/find fault. Probably done about 20K after fuel pump replacement without an issue. Good Luck.
Hightower Posted October 18, 2011 Author Posted October 18, 2011 Yeah, it's been hooked up to machine - no errors. How much is fuel filter? DIY job?
m25man Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 As the efficiency of a deisel stems primarily from the ability to compress the fuel/air to such a degree it will ignite of its own accord your poor starting is likely to be related to one of the following:- The Speed that the engine is rotated for starting (Electrics, Battery Starter Motor) PreHeat (Glowplugs ) although these are only actually used nowadays if the ECU tells them they are needed. The Air/Fuel ratio Fuel Line Pressure. The Compression available in the chamber. (Injectors, Valves and Piston rings) Unlike the standard ICE, Deisel engines are wholly based on compression ignition and Voodoo. It is likely that you have injector issues as these can become worn, damaged or carbon fouled which results in the chamber compression leaking back through the injector and failing to ignite. You can suffer similar issues with contaminated deisel (water) When it does eventually fire up if you have a large cloud of burning deisel it is probably poor compression. Before spending a lot of money on repairs try using a reputable fuel additive to the Deisel this can often clear the injector or Inlet\Exhaust Valve build up and return your compression to the 20:1 needed to burn correctly. If that doesnt work then its off to the local Deisel Specialist or Witchdoctor!
broc Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 It sounds like you have eliminated most of the electrical/sensor candidates. It could be air in the system/fuel draining from the injector pipes..... try google & look for diesel astra & spill pipes , leak off pipes ... different car makers call them different things. You might find this interesting..... Diesel DTI Starting Problems 'Spill Pipes' 'EGR'
Sirbendy Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 Try: Vauxhall Owners Network Lots of very Vx savvy bods in there, some extremely knowledgeable diesel bods as well.
Oaktech Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 also, how hard do you drive it? are you a redline it, change gear kind of driver, or do you change up at 2'8? It might be worth you going out, getting it up to normal temp and then drving it hard for a minute, maybe pulling up a hill near the redline, this will remove a certain ammount of coke deposits from around the engine and will give it a good clean out. the people behind may not appreciate it as their world will go black for a bit! My dad is a diesel specialist and recomends this as a self help solution for poor starting and also smokiness at MOT time. 1
Hightower Posted October 18, 2011 Author Posted October 18, 2011 I'm not a maniac, and change at an appropriate time, but it also gets opened up regularly to 4k+ revs when overtaking etc. Gonna try some redex for diesels in it, unless someone can recommend some other brand?
dirtydog Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 could be air getting in the system overnight? Maybe a leak on the fuel filter housing? Know this on a couple of 4x4's but they have a primer on them so you can get around the problem/.
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