Anyone else suffer with condensation in their home?

[LeMarchand]

Could you buy one of those moisture collectors or even put cat litter in some old socks around the room to absorb the moisture? I saw it on life hacker about putting this in the car Prevent Car Windows From Fogging Up with Cat Litter-Filled Socks.

 

Hah! I recommended that trick for @abillybob's car. Maybe it's him that's the problem ?

 

I've never found those moisture traps to be any use, but possible in a smaller enclosed space like a car it might help. Seems OK in my car so far...

[abillybob]

@abillybob - Is the skylight you can reach noticeably colder to touch than other windows in the same room? If you know someone with an IR camera you could take a look with that as well from the outside and see if the skylights show warmer than other windows for example. If it's the WLI or WGI model range and not the FWL/FWR it would appear to be single glazed, so I'd check the model (if there's a number on it), or look at the glazing unit itself, it should be fairly obvious if it's double glazed.

Here what the piece of metal says on the window if that makes any sense to you... :/

 

 

We got told by the estate agents it was double but I haven't looked at it properly. It's quite hard as it's recessed a fair amount into the ceiling!!!

[pcstru]

As I wrote above, removing moisture at source is the 1st step, second, remove any very moist air, third, deal with the remainder. But see my post on "positive pressure".

Right. Dehumidifiers will only deal with the symptom - the actual problem is very likely to be inadequate ventilation. I notice BB's windows do vent but rather than separate vents, it is a stage of the lock (IOW you don't quite shut them but they lock).

[timbo343]

Here what the piece of metal says on the window if that makes any sense to you... :/

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]39532[/ATTACH]

 

We got told by the estate agents it was double but I haven't looked at it properly. It's quite hard as it's recessed a fair amount into the ceiling!!!

 

It looks like that's single glazed.

[sippo]

Man you have issues. Condensation in your house and in your car...

[abillybob]

Right. Dehumidifiers will only deal with the symptom - the actual problem is very likely to be inadequate ventilation. I notice BB's windows do vent but rather than separate vents, it is a stage of the lock (IOW you don't quite shut them but they lock).

Well the lock has three settings, open a bit, a bit more and WIDE OPEN!!! Problem is it's not a vent all it does is open the window slightly which then if it rains we're screwed!! I did try it yesterday but it didn't get rid of any condensation after having it open for an hour so I just closed it again!

 

It looks like that's single glazed.

 

Oh cr*p. That's annoyed me a little!! Do you think a double glazed window will fix this issue then? How much money is it normally to get someone to install a new double glazed skylight?

[elsiegee40]

Take a look at Velux http://www.velux.co.uk/

[pcstru]

Well the lock has three settings, open a bit, a bit more and WIDE OPEN!!! Problem is it's not a vent all it does is open the window slightly which then if it rains we're screwed!! I did try it yesterday but it didn't get rid of any condensation after having it open for an hour so I just closed it again!

I was just going by the blurb on the link you posted. They look like a cheap pick for a window option by the builders. I'd be concerned about proper ventilation given what you said about building certificates when you were buying. PIV might be a very effective counter if the builder has compromised ventilation.

 

Oh cr*p. That's annoyed me a little!! Do you think a double glazed window will fix this issue then? How much money is it normally to get someone to install a new double glazed skylight?

Double glazing should alleviate condensation build up on the windows but it may not eliminate it entirely. Get a cheap humidity sensor and start to keep a log of readings. That will give you data against which you can measure anything you try.

 

(I couldn't see that the window in the blurb was double glazed but I didn't think you could fit single glazed windows these days other than special cases (conservation/listed buildings)).

 

Having a replacement fitted is likely to be £300-£500 labour + the cost of the window, but it could even be more. Depends on too many factors to be anything more than a guess.

Edited November 2, 2016 by pcstru

[abillybob]

FAKRO conservation side hung access skylight 54x98cm (FREE DELIVERY) | eBay

 

On that link above it says double glazed??? I'm all confused now!

 

A Cheap pick doesn't surprise me, everything in the house has been a bodge.. Note to all don't go with MRC Builders in Bridgnorth

 

Thanks for the info pcstru!

[elsiegee40]

The effectiveness of double glazing is controlled by the gap between the panes.

 

If that gap isn't sealed properly, or the gap between the panes isn't wide enough, then you may as well have single glazing.

 

Ventilation is the true problem with condensation though. Leaving your bedroom door open day and night will help a little as will opening a window that you can reach.

[caffrey]

Peaked my interest with the drimaster, where are you getting them from for 200 quid ?

[pcstru]

Peaked my interest with the drimaster, where are you getting them from for 200 quid ?

 

Ex VAT.

[Andrew_C]

If that gap isn't sealed properly, or the gap between the panes isn't wide enough, then you may as well have single glazing.

The sealing doesn't really matter so much. The width of the gap does; air is about 33 times as effective as an insulator than glass is. However, on the flip side, if the gap is too big, you can have the air circulating within the unit, and convection becomes your enemy.

[pcstru]

if the gap is too big, you can have the air circulating within the unit, and convection becomes your enemy.

Ah (lightbulb moment!). Which is presumably why they have triple glazing rather than just going for a larger gap!

[gaz350b]

Ah (lightbulb moment!). Which is presumably why they have triple glazing rather than just going for a larger gap!

 

The layer of air that is still on each surface(including the outer surfaces where you wouldn't think) adds an insane amount to the calculation on how energy efficient walls/windows are.

[CAM]

This thread persuaded me to buy a dehumidifier for the flat and it made a huge difference. Surprised how much water it collected in one evening!

[Willott]

@abillybob - http://www.fakro.co.uk/att/LOCAL/GB/catalogues/FAKRO_roof_windows_product_selector_and_price_list.pdf listed in there under WLI, specifically mentions single glazed hardened. Looks like they're meant to be used in lofts where there's normally already insulation between main house and loft. Cheap way of doing things, and I don't think if it was done like that nowadays it would meet building regs. Out of interest, when was it built/work last done on it?

 

I would have thought in terms of replacing, if you ensure the replacement is the same dimensions, that would reduce the labour costs and should be a fairly straight forwards out and in for any builder. Get a few quotes. And Velux are brand that is most well known and work well. There may be other costs to consider (building regs), but you would need to investigate this and decide if there's a requirement...

Edited November 3, 2016 by Willott

[abillybob]

@abillybob - http://www.fakro.co.uk/att/LOCAL/GB/catalogues/FAKRO_roof_windows_product_selector_and_price_list.pdf listed in there under WLI, specifically mentions single glazed hardened. Looks like they're meant to be used in lofts where there's normally already insulation between main house and loft. Cheap way of doing things, and I don't think if it was done like that nowadays it would meet building regs. Out of interest, when was it built/work last done on it?

 

I would have thought in terms of replacing, if you ensure the replacement is the same dimensions, that would reduce the labour costs and should be a fairly straight forwards out and in for any builder. Get a few quotes. And Velux are brand that is most well known and work well. There may be other costs to consider (building regs), but you would need to investigate this and decide if there's a requirement...

Hi Mate cheers for that! The barn was only recently converted around 2 years ago and does have building regulations certificate of completion!? I did read somewhere the windows should be used only in uninhabited rooms as they won't meet building regulations!!! So I'm surprised it has passed!

 

As a side note I had the Skylight in question open for over an hour last night and all of the condensation remained!! I kept the extractor fan on for a long period of time after my shower and closed the door to the bathroom, didn't boil any food and opened all the vents in the windows... STILL CONDENSATION! Stupid thing.

Edited November 3, 2016 by abillybob

[Willott]

Less said about building regs the better... which reminds me, need to chase up a certificate...

 

Might be worth contacting the builder who did it - they may be willing to replace it at cost of parts - or it may at least be worth finding out if they're part of a trade organisation such as fensa

[mikkydoos]

I'd dehumidify once the see what activities cause the first condensation. Check for splits in your shower extraction duct in the loft and on the cooker hood.

[TRC_MA]

I think (am not at home to check) on my skylights the bar at the top that you click in to place to lock it shut has a gap behind it with some brush, just like a letterbox. If I close the window but not click the bar all the way shut this leaves some ventilation. Is this what you are doing?