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Posted
I have a Hitachi ED-A111 short throw projector here with a broken gearbox for the flip down mirror and I'm struggling to find anywhere that sells projector parts. Can anyone recommended anywhere?
Posted

There were two failures on this one, firstly one of the cogs that sit on the rod the mirror is attached to split, specifically the one that allows the drive to slip if the motor keeps going but the mirror is at it's furthest point. I repaired this with some strong glue, wasn't expecting it to last but it got a couple more weeks out of it over a particularly important time.

The failure now is the keyway on the cog that connects the rod the mirror is attached to the gear train.

 

I had an idea last night, tried it this morning and it seems to do the trick.

 

There are two sets of wires that deal with the flap. One controls the motor and it's rotation direction, the other a sensor which detects the position state of the mirror (closed, midway, open). If these two connectors are unplugged, the projector appears to ignore the flap state and lack of response from the motor and crack on with doing it's job of projecting things. If you're testing this with the top cover off, you need to hold the lamp cover sensor in somehow. I used a bit of tape. Make sure it is pushed in fully throughout the testing or the lamp error light will glow and the projector will switch off.

 

Cheers for the projector spares link, I shall certainly save that in the favourites for the future!

Posted
I have a Hitachi ED-A111 short throw projector here with a broken gearbox for the flip down mirror and I'm struggling to find anywhere that sells projector parts. Can anyone recommended anywhere?

 

Hi samba_man

 

yes this is a bit of a pain - if you do need the spare the new Motor i would say EDA100 Motor Mirror Assy A1 Hitachi would be a good start.

 

But it seams you have fixed the problem- well done.

 

Col

Posted
There were two failures on this one, firstly one of the cogs that sit on the rod the mirror is attached to split, specifically the one that allows the drive to slip if the motor keeps going but the mirror is at it's furthest point. I repaired this with some strong glue, wasn't expecting it to last but it got a couple more weeks out of it over a particularly important time.

The failure now is the keyway on the cog that connects the rod the mirror is attached to the gear train.

 

I had an idea last night, tried it this morning and it seems to do the trick.

 

There are two sets of wires that deal with the flap. One controls the motor and it's rotation direction, the other a sensor which detects the position state of the mirror (closed, midway, open). If these two connectors are unplugged, the projector appears to ignore the flap state and lack of response from the motor and crack on with doing it's job of projecting things. If you're testing this with the top cover off, you need to hold the lamp cover sensor in somehow. I used a bit of tape. Make sure it is pushed in fully throughout the testing or the lamp error light will glow and the projector will switch off.

 

Cheers for the projector spares link, I shall certainly save that in the favourites for the future!

 

Very interesting that, if you get the chance again, can you take some photos of exactly which wires etc, would be very helpful.

Posted
Hmm interesting. The results yesterday were with the top cover off. I've screwed the top cover back on today and after pressing the power button, around a minute passes then the power LED flashes red. I've got a funny feeling that this would have happened yesterday if I had left the projector running long enough. I can't really dedicate any more work time to this projector so I'll have to look down the replacement gearbox or new projector route. Interesting to read about the possibility of making a new cog up on a 3D printer, there's been some money allocated to one here...
  • 2 months later...
Posted

We have just tried this unplugging the cables from the position sensor PCB and Motor control. The projector still shuts off after around 20 seconds. This has happened on 3 projectors we tried.

 

Has anyone revisited this problem and found a solution apart from paying for a fixed price repair?

 

Simon

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

It seems that fix I mentioned earlier on wasn't a very good one!

 

The projector is now sitting in a corner sulking and a couple more are just sat up there near the ceiling taunting me just waiting to fail.

 

Colin's link is the best value one I could find but they didn't want to spend the money.

 

I would expect the replacement part to last no longer than the orginal one though.

Posted
Does anyone have a guide on how to get the pesky thing open? I'm really struggling!

 

download the manual from the following link, ok to follow getting the cover off but the other pieces seem a bit piecemeal compared to a sanyo manual i used last week which was great. I too am trying to replace or repair the mirror motor but it looks like itwill mean taking most of the projector apart. Quick you tube vid for replacing the motor would be great?! Good luck.

 

http://elektrotanya.com/hitachi_cp-a100_ed-a100_ed-a110_sm.pdf/download.html

  • Thanks 1
  • 5 months later...
Posted
I believe Hitachi will extend the warranty to five years on the fault. Contact Equinox who do the warranty repairs for Hitachi. I sent them an email and they got in touch with Hitachi for me who agreed the repair. Equinox came out the next day and replaced the projector which was 18 months out of warranty.
  • 1 year later...
Posted

Apologies for resurrecting this, but did anyone ever order this motor ? Was it a straightforward fix?

 

We have a load of these model Hitachis, we seem to come across this issue frequently and can't afford to replace all the units that break down.

 

Thanks!

Posted

Hi there we have brought the motors and have replaced a few. its not too bad to change just have to remove quiet a lot in order to do this.

There is another method to enable the projectors to work if you don't mind the mirrors staying down. You can unplug the motor and replace with a high power LED. This will make the projector work fine with the mirror in a static position.

Posted

is the high power led just there to draw some current from the circuit so the control board senses it? can you tell us what voltage LED you used and which way you set polarity?

thanks

  • 1 month later...

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