jinnantonnixx

I've had a look at this and it seems excellent. It's easy to use and has some quite sophisticated features. It integrates with Google docs as a linked app for convenience (or use it from their web login page) I'm not a heavy DTP user, but at first glance it looks like a viable alternative to Publisher. What do you think? https://www.lucidpress.com/ Here are the tutorials - you might be surprised by what it can do. Lucidpress : Tutorials

How do you know a person has read the message? That's something to consider, especially as you mention emergencies. I had a pager in my first job and missed messages when I left the pager in the car. At least with a phone call you get immediate confirmation that the person has understood the message and is able to act (or not). And don't forget the old wheeze of sending the message "LOW BATTERY" once in a while.

Just choose Guest logon right at the start screen. See how that works out for you, perhaps it's all you need. Useful info, including a link about customising the Guest. https://help.ubuntu.com/stable/ubuntu-help/shell-guest-session.html https://help.ubuntu.com/community/PasswordlessGuestAccount https://help.ubuntu.com/community/CustomizeGuestSession

The Guest mode in Ubuntu is restricted, and wipes its data when Guest logs off. Every subsequent Guest gets a clean slate. You can configure what apps are available on the dock for Guest.

Found this for reference. https://www.java.com/en/download/help/silent_install.xml Command Line Install The Java SE 7 Windows offline installer command has following syntax: .exe [/s] [iNSTALLDIR=:\] [sTATIC=1] [WEB_JAVA=0/1] [WEB_JAVA_SECURITY_LEVEL=VH/H/M/L] where .exe is the single executable installer for Java /s, if used, indicates silent installation INSTALLDIR, if used, specifies the drive and path of the JRE. If INSTALLDIR is not specified, the installation will go into C:\Program Files\java\jre (default location). STATIC=1, if used, specifies a static installation. This option is available in the 6u10 release and above. For more information see Static Installation. WEB_JAVA=0, if used, disables any Java application from running in the browser. WEB_JAVA=1, the default, enables Java applications in the browser. This field is available as of the 7u10 release. For more information see Setting Security Levels of the Java Client.. WEB_JAVA_SECURITY_LEVEL: if used, sets the security level of unsigned Java apps running in a browser. The possible values for this field are V (very high), H (high), M (medium, the default) or L (low). This field is available as of the 7u10 release.

That'll do, thanks.

I have a specific time-period in which I need to download and update Java on Windows machines. The machines will then be re-frozen by DeepFreeze. The machines wake up via a BIOS feature at a set time on Sundays, so this will need to be done completely automatically. The Java client (GUI) has a feature to download updates, but it asks before updating. The script will be run by a feature of DeepFreeze, but it must be DOS batch, or at least something started by DOS batch. I need a way of doing this completely automatically, from a command line. can this be done?

It's not just a change of interface - it's an inconsistent, jarring user experience. I've used a ton of interfaces from early Gem, SunOS on early Sparcs, OS/2, through fvwm, *boxes to Unity (my favourite!!!). I prefer some, dislike others, but Metro is simply horrible. Yes, you can get used to it. You can get used to anything, but that doesn't mean it's a good interface.

Got a few Spectrums and a QL. I've got a Merlin from the '70s. I loved this game. Perhaps I'll plug it in to see if it still works. Merlin (game) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Time for a spring clean. Finding Large Attachments and Emails in GMail

That, buddy, is a result. P.S. I got rid of my spuds ages ago. I tried them for a year, but they keep trying to kill me so back to studded platforms.

Hmmm interesting. I've been looking for an easy solution for my parents to keep their photos backed up, yet readily available. I've looked at Flickr, but the interface is very convoluted. This might be just the ticket.

Surely you mean 1023M? It's all in the delivery. As it stands they wouldn't get a K. Not quite as side splitting.

^^^^ This. As soon as you buy the car it belongs to you, so your own insurance clause allowing you to drive other vehicles not belonging to you is not applicable and you are not covered. Get an in-principle quote, then either arrange a transfer date/time or make sure you collect the car during office hours so you insure on the spot. edit: posted after the above post appeared.

IE settings are a disaster. Is this any help? F5 F6 F7 F8 Red Green. Where are my IE Settings?

The teachers are doing what is asked of them - teaching the curriculum. Cable's comments could be re-phrased as 'Astronomy lecturers know nothing about plumbing!"

You get far more for your money second-hand. The problem with cheap bikes is poor components - bottom brackets that last months, poor pedals, cranks with integrated chainrings, poor sealing on bearings and so on. If you want new, I rate the Carrerra Subway (disc version), you can sometimes find this on offer at Halfords. The Subway is a solid bike. If the simplicity of single-speed is your thing, I've hammered my Vitus Dee 29 and it's still going like a trooper. Apart from the nylon pedals (changed for studded platforms), the components are good.

Third day, oil on the chain is looking good. Contrary to my expectations, no need to re-oil yet, just wiped the chain down at the end of the day. The oil looks good. I think I might thin it down 3:1 for my next batch. In fact, I'd recommend you try that first, as the oil still feels a bit sticky at 2:1. Then again, that might be the residual factory wax. By the way, I bought 'Clean Spirit' non-toxic thinner from Wilkos for £1.75. After my disappointing chainguard experience, I've installed a temporary DIY mud-flap for my chainring to preserve my new chain. I'll try and post a photo later. You'll laugh. This weekend I'm going to have a crack at this: http://lifehacker.com/create-a-diy-chainset-mudguard-for-your-bike-1508440352

Have you had any updates in the meantime? That collation fault if normally a coding error. The code should have DATABASE_DEFAULT around the collation "=" operator. Obviously you can't change that. It might be worth checking that your ODBC drivers are up-to-date.

You could add a trigger to the behaviour table to write the SQL user, IP, date&time, action (Insert/Update/Delete) to a logging table when a value is changed. All unsupported, of course. So don't do it.

I found this. http://www.change.org/en-GB/petitions/uk-government-ban-owen-paterson-from-using-imaginary-friends-as-scientific-advisers

A background for those scratching their heads.... 'Badgers are moving the goalposts' says Owen Paterson of cull | Environment | theguardian.com Paterson is expanding into other realms of farce. Why does he have a job?

I've got good mudguards, and I've added extra flaps to stop the worst of the spray. I don't think that there's any way of stopping the chain getting dirty, apart from a fully sealed chainguard. Most of the Dutch chainguards are designed for three piece cranks, not the flush crankset my type of bike. 3-in-1 is often maligned, but it is an excellent oil - Comparison of chain lubes. The guy tested a range of oils, cheap and expensive, and came to this conclusion. Data trumps opinion, as they say. Perhaps it should be thinned a bit more when used on a bike chain. However, as 3-in-1 is a vegetable based oil (rather than petroleum) it does wash away easily, and needs to be reapplied if it's been raining. I wanted a water-resistant, thin, high quality oil, so that's why I decided to try to try and mix a homebrew oil. Time will tell.

Wipedown = 10 seconds, re-oil - 10 seconds, wipedown = 10 seconds! No worries. I had a chainguard (an SKS Chainboard) but wasn't very effective. I had to modify it with a Dremel to fit my crank and I didn't find the chain to be any cleaner! Oh well. I had been looking at a floating Hebie Chainglider, but can't get one to fit my combination of chainring and sprocket. I'm going to try my blend of oil and new heavy duty chain and see how that goes.

My experiment. 1. Chain My drive-train has worn out so I fitted a new bottom-bracket, chainring, chain and sprocket for my single-speed. Normally, I just leave the drive-train wear out, as it's not worth junking a serviceable £10 chain to preserve a £3 sprocket on the single-speed. With a conventional derailleur system, you should change the chain to prevent wear to the other expensive components. Single-speed is much simpler. I couldn't help but think why back when I was a kid chains lasted forever. Back in the day, we had big heavy chains with bushes, not the lighter bushless chains we have now. So I tracked down an old-school bushed chain (a Japanese Izumi track chain) and stuck it on the bike. It's significantly heavier and feels pretty tough. Time will tell if it lasts longer and resists stretch. (I only clean what's necessary - I leave the rest of the bike dirty ) 2.Oil On to oil. I did a spot of research to try and find the best oil, studying their ingredients, and found that the fancy boutique oils were quality oils thinned down. The term 'homebrew' kept coming up, so I researched that. It turns out that you can make your own high quality chain oil for pennies. You will need a good quality motor oil and some odourless mineral spirit (OMS). The OMS is non-toxic and low volatile, unlike white spirits and turps. Do not be tempted to use turps or white spirit - horrible, nasty stuff you shouldn't get on your skin. Use a non-toxic thinner. I had some good motor oil in the garage, so I just had to buy some thinner. Add a measure of oil to the container then add the thinner. You will have to apply some trial and error to get the mix, depending on the viscosity of the neat oil, but I found a mix of 2 thinners to 1 oil was good for my particular oil. It should be thicker than water, but much thinner that the neat oil I didn't use an emulsifier or anti-foam agent, so you'll need to invert the bottle several times to mix. If you shake it, it will foam - not a disaster - but makes application a bit harder. Apply liberally to the chain after the ride, operating the crank in reverse. The thinner flushes the chain of dirt and muck, and allows the thinned oil to penetrate the chain. Wipe the excess oil from the chain. Overnight, the thinner will evaporate, leaving a thin layer of quality oil in the chain. Before use, wipe the chain free of excess oil - any oil on the surface of the chain will be a dirt-magnet. As for costs, 1 litre of homebrew cycle oil will cost about £2 - £3. 1 litre should last a while.