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Posted
I'd add a rack and (lockable) panniers as essentials to a commuting bike. A rucksack quickly becomes an irritant especially on a longer ride and you don't worry so much about carrying things you might only need occasionally.
Posted
I cycle to work on a mountain bike fitted with Scwalbe City Jets - The best purchase that I have made as the difference between them and regular mountain bike tyres was about 10 mins off of the 50 minute journey.

 

Hi Mr.Ben

 

How are you finding their performance in the wet/winter conditions interested in swapping to these myself

 

Cheers

Griff

Posted
Many may frown, but the Carerra Subway 2 is very good value and I think might be on offer now. The '2' has disk brakes.

 

This is the bike I am riding right now and I can confirm that it is very nice for the money you pay. The only downside is that the saddle is essentially a flat piece of plastic and provides no padding whatsoever, but that's easy to replace. Oh and it has cable disk brakes (rather than hydraulic) which apparently some people turn their noses up at? I've never had a problem with them though.

Posted
Hi Mr.Ben

 

How are you finding their performance in the wet/winter conditions interested in swapping to these myself

 

Cheers

Griff

 

City jets - bit slippy over wet leaves / mud but they're cheap, last well and hardly ever get punctures (touch wood).

  • Thanks 1
Posted
This is the bike I am riding right now and I can confirm that it is very nice for the money you pay. The only downside is that the saddle is essentially a flat piece of plastic and provides no padding whatsoever, but that's easy to replace. Oh and it has cable disk brakes (rather than hydraulic) which apparently some people turn their noses up at? I've never had a problem with them though.

 

Cheap cable discs (on £60 tesco / reebok / dunlop / various other brand bikes) are awful - in keeping with the rest of the machine. Better cable discs can be very good and avoid the mucking about with hydraulic fluid that the other sort need.

Posted (edited)
Cheap cable discs (on £60 tesco / reebok / dunlop / various other brand bikes) are awful - in keeping with the rest of the machine. Better cable discs can be very good and avoid the mucking about with hydraulic fluid that the other sort need.

 

The Subway uses the Tektro IO system which is a fairly reasonable cable system. Changing the pads takes under 30 seconds without tools - they're held in place by magnets. Adjustment is easy and they work reasonably well. The cable only operates one pad so be sure to adjust the opposing pad every so often to maintain a good braking operation. This is done with a hex key through the wheel spokes into the static pad holder.

Edited by jinnantonnixx
Posted

Depending on where you’re leaving it you’ll need a lock . . . D locks will often come with a mount so you can attach to the frame when it’s not in use (handy for not forgetting it). I read somewhere a while ago that the police recommend budgeting 15-20% of the value of your bike for a lock.

 

There's an important point to pick up on here. Especially if the bike is of any value and you have it insured. After having three bikes stolen in quick succession (third was insured) my current bike was insured for the first couple of years of it's life. Insurance companies will insist on Gold rated D-locks as a minimum. Some I've seen insist on two different types of Gold rated lock and your bike must always be locked to an immovable object when not in use. Don't follow the rules and the insurance is void!

Posted

I must be a nut cycling in without all the things people say about

 

I cycle in with

 

Helmet

gloves

lights (for darker days)

old jacket

shorts

old trainers

 

but my work is a 15 minute cycle ride away so dont really need all the extra like tools etc plus i get changed at work so i only carry in my clothes in on the monday.

 

Thats also a good thing to take/store at work is a wash kit so you can freshen up at work if you get a bit smelly!

Posted

I don't really have a problem with drivers overtaking/driving alongside. The ones I have to really watch for is those who don't know how to use roundabouts, pulling out in front of me and making a turn from the other side of the road in front of me. I think the main problem lies in that many car drivers really underestimate how fast I am moving

I may watch that program, but I think there will be just as many 'smug' cyclists who don't signal, run lights etc, as bad car drivers on there.

Posted

Anyone use the Strava app here? Loving competing against people on the short runs.

 

Really gives motivation to go out on longer rides. I'm using the Garmin Edge 200 to track the GPS but works with phones as well.

Posted (edited)

Nice article on cycling in The Psychologist

http://www.thepsychologist.org.uk/archive/archive_home.cfm/volumeID_25-editionID_217-ArticleID_2136-getfile_getPDF/thepsychologist%5C0912walk.pdf

 

It certainly often seems that cyclists are the poor relation in terms of infrastructure. Yes… I can’t help suspecting (but again, nobody’s really studied this) that one of the problems is that cyclists are neither one thing nor the other: they go faster than pedestrians, and so make pedestrians feel uncomfortable when they get close; but they go slower than cars and drivers don’t like to share space with them either. Given neither of our major road user groups wants to share space with cyclists, what to do?
Edited by jinnantonnixx
Posted (edited)
...Not to mention a bit cold around the ears!

 

Easily solved with 'buffs' One over the head (under the helmet), another around the neck (pulled up to nose level if very cold). I use this combination when it's cold and I arrive toasty.

Edited by jinnantonnixx
Posted
I use a buffs its awesome keeps me so warm around the lugs but sometimes I wear it around my neck and over my face :D the snow caused some wobble on the way until work but by the time I hit down it was slush everywhere got soaked through to me jacobs

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