difinity

It was indeed that one.

I have one with a SATA connection rather than USB3. No conversion to USB required so native SATA speed and no hokey pokey Chinese electronics to fail and cause possible damage. Much cheaper at £2.17 too, but from China.

Looking at IronX it seems to be for minute iron particles, particularly ones that bake themselves to wheels. It seems to dissolve the particles so they can be washed away. Your iron particles sound much larger to me and aren't bonded to the glass, just stuck with magnetism I'm guessing. I'd go with some rare earth magnets wrapped in a tissue, held slightly away from the glass to pull them away. Super cheap on ebay.

I'm buying myself a NAND programmer as I'm not sure Santa would know which one I want. I've had stuff from Ali in 8 days, most within 3 weeks, some a bit longer. I usually waiting for about 20 orders from them. It's like Christmas every day when the postman arrives.

Schools all over Leicestershire reporting closures. Just not the one my daughter works at yet. I give here a lift, so hoping for a snow day. SNOW DAY !!!! WHOOOOO !!!!

Yes, I have a mate that bought his missus a lawnmower for Christmas, it didn't go down so well.

Would that be some of that "clean coal" Trump talks about ? Otherwise those electric cars suddenly aren't very environmental. I'm for British built and owned nuclear power. Why doesn't that happen ?

Was the battery removed before the screen swap. I've got some laptops in for repair that didn't and they have burnt components on the motherboard. Check for damage to the screen side of the LVDS cable, also is the screen the correct resolution. As Jatso asks, does the screen light ?

We don't have masses of excess or cheap electricity in this country. We couldn't all switch to electric vehicles even if we could afford to. There just isn't enough electricity produced and on order to ensure future supplies we have to sign up to overpriced outsourced nuclear. And whilst the orders for new trucks are good. Even big deposits aren't covering Tesla's daily losses. They need to sort the Model 3 production issues in order to survive I think.

Whatever TV you buy turn the backlights down as low as you can to extend their life. LGs seem particularly bad for over driving them.

I think the touch is powered by USB, check the cable/socket and maybe try another if possible.

To say one brand is better than another is silly. Just like cars, computers and eveything else, there are always stinkers in the lot. Sony don't make panels, so they are either Samsung or Sharp inside. LGs tend to suffer from LED failure after a couple of years and some Samsung TVs suffer from BGA issues on the mainboard. LG OLED TVs suffer from banding. Don't buy your TV from a shop that sells toasters that's known for it's poor customer service and support, buy your TV from Richer Sounds where they come with a 5 year warranty and they know their stuff.

Sometimes ebay shows more results if you list the part number rather than the laptop. Should be on a sticker on the back of the keyboard. Identifying by part number rather than the laptop/part usually shows cheaper prices too.

If it was me, I'd buy the BIOS chip here Bios Chip ASUS P8H61-I LX R2.0/RM/SI Mainboard / Motherboard | eBay The programmer I use is here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-25-series-EEPROM-Flash-BIOS-USB-Programmer-Burner-CH341A-with-Software-driver/292151620486 There is a newer version like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CH341A-24-25-Series-EEPROM-Flash-BIOS-USB-Programmer-UK-STOCK-FREE-DELIVERY/162562713830 Read the new BIOS chip with the programmer and save it. You'd then be free to remove the chips off the other motherboards and reprogram them. An alternative would be to try and merge the 4mb ROM provided from ASUS for the non RM board with the 8mb dump from your RM board. Option A would be easier I feel and less prone to failure and the EEPROM looks to be socketed, so no need for desoldering.

If you've tried a new bulb, then I'd suspect failing capacitors in the power supply. Their job is to smooth the ripples in the supply and I suspect this isn't happening as well as it should be.

Is it just onboard Intel graphics or is there an Nvidia chip in too ? It sounds like it could be flicking between the two but having an issue.

Charging IC or shorted ceramic capacitor(s). Quite common and an easy fix.

Yes, it's quite common.

Update to the latest BIOS if you haven't already and check the memory timings. Is the memory on the compatibility list ? https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/Z97-U3-PLUS#support-mem

I've been asked for my mileage every time I renew. I was careless enough to have a minor bump last year. I rang my insurance who rang the DVLA who then joined the conversation to check my license was in order. There were no checks or questions asked about my mileage.

There is no chip off data recovery solution for the iPhones due to their security measures. The iPhone would need repairing to a state that it can be powered up to enable data recovery. As Geoff suggests that could be the charging port or even the battery. They could however require more detailed work. There is software available I believe that can pull the useful stuff from an iTunes backup, but that's only useful if the owners backed up.

As it's been running mostly okish in the new PC i doubt you will see a capacitor leaking or bulging although it is possible. At least take the top off and have a look inside, they look to all be Nippon Chemi-con caps in the photo i found online, can you tell me what's written on them ? Depending on your kit, it's not hard to replace new capacitors, I can match replacements when I know what's inside. Most PSUs have bleed resistors to drain the power from capacitors. It's the two big ones that you need to be wary off. It feels like you've been hit in the arm with a lump hammer if you're unfortunate to forget/be careless. Measure across from one to the other with the multimeter set to 200v, discharging with metal object can produce a spark and looks cool but isn't good for the health of the cap.

Voltage fluctuation would more likely be caused by a faulty voltage regulator and ripple is basically when AC current is not filtered by the capacitors. It's more common for capacitors to go out of tolerance than a voltage regulator fail. Capacitors in power supplies are one of the first things I check when I get a sick computer in nowadays, especially on older systems. The most I've seen capacitors rated is 10,000/15,000hours at 105c (417 days). It looks like there might be 6 capacitors (5 definitely) in your PSU excluding the two main filer caps. Your Corsair isn't a bad PSU, but after 3 years I suspect heat has had an effect. I would not use that PSU as it is currently, until it's been checked. It's possible it might damage your new system. You could buy another PSU but I think it would be cheaper to repair yours.

I wouldn't have expected you to understand the numbers as you don't own a multimeter but the results would have been useful. If the PSU is 3 years old, and it lived in a hot environment. I'd expect some caps have gone out of spec a little. As we don't know what's up with the first PC it's hard to say, ripple is different to voltage fluctuation and needs an oscilloscope not voltmeter to measure. If you possibly have killed the 12v PSU rail with a suspected possibly dodgy power supply it's perhaps not the best idea to plug it into new kit. There are plenty of overpriced overrated PSUs out there. Good names, big price, garbage when it comes to testing. You could copy the cracked exe to a memory stick then run the virus scan then submit to virus total. If you have the parts to hand then swapping in and out is fine. When money is exchanging hands it's always best to diagnose first.

Did the test I suggested show a short on your old board ? It's possible there's some ripple on the power supply, but you'd need an oscilloscope to measure it. Don't feel such an idiot, the field of IT is huge, I have mainly ignored the managing and admin of networks to concentrate on hardware repair. I started with building PCs in 2000 and now do repair work looking through a microscope. Chucking money at new kit without fully testing the old is a little....., well it's done now, we need to get what you have sorted. Have you run memtest on each stick of memory ? You're not a million miles away from me if all else fails.