difinity

Whilst I appreciate replacing the capacitors in power supplies is not the norm for most and swapping is easier, there is no reason hard drives should be swapped without checking for oxidisation first. For years I was just changing faulty drives until I learned this trick, now I save lots. Costs nothing to clean them.

It's not necessarily the age of the hardware but the quality of it. Power supplies (especially cheap ones) will start to act up due to failing capacitors and the contacts will oxidise on hard drives causing read issues long before the motherboards and CPUs become obsolete. Either or both of these issues will show themselves as failing PCs, both are easier and cheaper to fix than replacing whole machines. Power supplies can be reconditioned with new capacitors and the contacts are easily cleaned with a pencil eraser.

Something like this ? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Free-Satellite-Kodi-Android-Set/dp/B01GJPFZOU?tag=hohtel0c-21

Yep, not much enterprise in here. photo courtesy of ifixit. There are only 4 screws holding it together OP, photos of the inside should reveal why it's failed.

The WD Greens are garbage. They have known bugs. How to Fix Western Digital Caviar Green Bug | Those Reviews That You Need. The other issues are likely to be corrosion as seen in the photo above.

Yes I got one yesterday, I usually play them along so they aren't ripping off innocents, but yesterday I wasn't in the mood so I just enquired if she knew she was working for scammers (some aren't aware), and that perhaps it wasn't the best idea to try the scam in an IT guy, and the fact I'd quoted half of my "computer ID number" should have been a dead giveaway. She hung up.

There is a little slow down with Windows over time, but terribly slow suggests something more is a miss. Are the drivers up to date ? Perhaps the original image has issues ? How does the network do updates ? There is a bug that I see often with Windows just hanging at updates until a patch is applied. Perhaps there is an old group policy or share the network is trying to access ? If the hard drives were "ageing" then this is down to oxidisation on the contacts on the PCB. Unscrew the PCB and if the contacts are dirty clean them with a pencil eraser. I doubt it is this as you don't report any crashing just slowness.

The first two USB ports on those are quick charge capable and can put out 2.1A.

Stick an oscilloscope on the outputs and look at the ripple. Failing that take the top off and have a look inside. Be mindful the capacitors inside could still have a charge in them, although you are only having a look, just don't go poking your fingers in. I fixed a power supply a couple of weeks ago that had a couple of bulging capacitors in. The PC still worked but would lock up occasionally and act strange.

If the memory has been tested with something like memtest, I'd look at the power supply, in particular swollen capacitors. What motherboard do these PCs have ?

For those that don't know https://www.aliexpress.com/ has it's famous singles day sale today. Only on for the next 24 hours.

There are a couple of steps you can take that won't damage the drive or effect chances of recovery. Firstly remove it from the external case. Plug it directly using SATA to a PC. Boot the PC using a Live Linux disc. Does the drive now mount ? There is also unscrewing the PCB and cleaning the oxidised contacts with a rubber than can be done. I'd then check the two TVS diodes on the 12v and 5v lines. All non invasive, non data damaging or recovery attempt impeding.

A dehumidifier costs less than you think to run (about 25p for 7 hours) but it doesn't need to be on 24/7. Do you have conventional radiators or underfloor heating ?

Screen for Toshiba SATELLITE L500-02F. Replacement Laptop LCD Screens suggests it uses CCFL back lights, so the inverter is separate, and cheaper. The easiest way to be sure is plug a spare LCD screen in to the inverter to check. If it stays on you know the CCFLs have failed in your original LCD. If it goes out it's the inverter.

I think FHD is 1920x1080 QHD is 2560x1440 and HD is 1366x768 The 32SD I think is the hybrid drive cache memory size.

Have you tried version P01.A1 or P01.A2 ? both dated the same.

I have a short Nokia micro USB that has lasted me years. It is only about 15cm long though. It's the only cable I have that will charge my Note 2 properly (1.5A). The rest don't last very long at all.

We bought Microsoft mice at my last school. Reasonably priced and robust. We had very few failures.

I removed all of the old rockwool insulation and replaced it with with Celotex as I wanted to board out my loft but keep it insulated. I put 3x2 CLS timber on top of the joists at 90 degrees then put the loft boards on top. You need to have a space between the top of the Celotex/insulation boards and the loft boards otherwise you will have condensation collecting. The big sheets are unwieldy and expensive from B&Q/Wickes and have to be cut outside of the loft resulting in lots of up and down ladders. I was patient and bought end of job pieces and a few packs from ebay of the smaller boards that go between rafters. I looked at the stilts but to do a whole loft worked out expensive.

Look at ATI Eyefinity cards. They can do between 3 and 6 monitors depending on the model.

I took half of the wooden load bearing wall out in my house a couple of years ago when I made downstairs open plan. I rang the council and spoke to a planning officer about my plans, who informed me I needed a structural engineer's report. An engineer came out and took measurements, his report took a few days and then I sent a copy to the council. I had to dig out a hole in the middle of my house as the concrete slab wasn't quite thick enough. Once the hole was dug the council inspected it and the council came out again after the brick supporting wall had been built the steel in but no covering up done. I was given verbal confirmation to continue and I got the paper work from the council a few days later.

It's empty or it shows "None" ?

The hard drive should show up under Primary Device in the BIOS even if the SATA settings are incorrect.

When you go into the BIOS is the hard drive shown ? If the SATA settings have been changed this will give the no bootable device message on boot up.

Looks like a standard 8 pin DIN connector.