jmak

It's a bit tricky. I've found that generally a tyre that performs well in some of the wet tests does reasonably well in all of them, even if it's not actually top. The one that can be a bit inconsistent is aquaplaning - it's a complete guess, but my instinct is that you're more likely to skid/lock wheels emergency braking on a wet road than aquaplane. I've actually gone for an all season tyre, despite the fact it only gets an average score compared to the summer tyres. That's because it performs massively better in temps below 7°C and there's even more of a difference on ice and my guess is that's when we're most likely to need the extra grip. A lot of our miles are before 7am and where we live there are a lot of mornings when it's 7°C or cooler. In general, as others have said, don't skimp - it's the only thing preventing you from crashing however good the handling or safety features of your car - and replace them before you get down to the bare minimum. I've always been advised you should change at 3mm tread depth.

I've always read recent tyre reviews before buying tyres - usually the one published in Auto Bild and Auto Express where they get loads of tyres and compare them in identical conditions. (I am a self identifying geek....) I usually choose the one based on a combination of the wet handling, braking, aquaplaning tests. I generally ignore comfort, noise and economy as they're lower priority for me - it's what they do when things go horribly wrong that interests me. That invariably means expensive tyres, although looking at the wear scores I think it might not have cost much more over the years. I always divide the cost by expected mileage and then I would compare it to how much I spent on petrol - even expensive tyres don't look like a major part of car running costs. Did I mention I have tendencies towards geekishness?

@mikeprice Loving the new avatar [emoji196][emoji196][emoji196]

Our heating used just over double the energy in December compared to November. Part of that is down to the ASHP being less efficient at lower temperatures, but mostly it's down to the greater heat demand due to a bigger temperature differential between outside and inside. All settings were left the same. A direct comparison is almost impossible. You need the same external air temperature, humidity, sunlight otherwise the heat demand will be different. Even your neighbour's could be different depending on tree shading, how much heat they use cooking, how many people are in the house. In terms of preventing condensation, steady state is generally best. As I'm sure you know, drier air is easier to heat and is less likely to give you condensation issues. You might save money overall by running a dehumidifier - but again it would be difficult to prove. 18°C does sound slightly high in terms of preventing condensation, but if you've had advice, you might need to stick to it. We have an ASHP, so it's not a direct comparison (again!) but we are looking for a fairly steady state and the minimum energy use and spend for comfort and avoiding condensation. We run at 18°C during the day and set back to 16 at night. I found more than a 2° set back used more energy. The actual temperature that's comfortable for you is partly personal preference and partly depending on where your thermostat is compared to the room you want to be warmest. You can work out the dew point for a given humidity level which would give you the minimum temperature you could go to. It's possible whoever told you 18°C has already done that.

I'll check. I recently started working in a fairly large organisation and the M365 tenancy is managed by a separate team - we just get delegated rights and can submit change requests. It's a bit of a culture shock coming from a school where I was *the* domain admin, *the* global admin, *the* network admin etc... Much better in lots of ways - definitely outweighs the negatives, but makes this kind of thing much slower to resolve.

I thought so too, but in our environment it seems that you're promoted for MFA on first run for Office (only once for all applications), again for Outlook, again for each additional Outlook shared mailbox and again for OneDrive.

I'm trying to get a seamless setup process and in a previous environment I had the group policy working to get OneDrive signed in and synchronising without user intervention. Pretty sure I know the answer to this, but thought I'd ask anyway: if you have MFA enabled on the Microsoft account, is there any seamless way of doing it? Could you pass the MFA token from other office applications? Assuming not, what workflow do you have for first run scenario?

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/consistent-financial-reporting-framework-cfr It includes an XML generator and the output is what you have to send to the LA. Other MIS software will produce it or you can DIY.

At work we have Rolec chargers and access is controlled via evcharge.online Don't get Rolec chargers. Not sure whether there's an issue with integration with the website, but I'll give them the benefit of the doubt. It's not unusual for the status (charging, available, offline) to bear no relation to what the website says. Having said that, other than two weeks where they were officially out of service I've done all of my charging to get to and from work since June.

Their problem, not yours. There's a specification that you have to use to supply your financial returns. After that it's up to them to deal with.

My mistake - I'd always been told that, but having checked you're allowed to use it for domestic heating. I used to have oil fired central heating and was warned off. Sorry for the confusion. Everywhere I've looked says heating oil is even cheaper (and would work in a diesel car, but that's definitely not allowed). I don't know how you get hold of it if you don't have a tank they deliver it to.

The headline says most of it: free but illegal. Buying red diesel if you're not authorised is breaking tax law. Using red diesel for purposes other than intended is breaking tax law. That'd be enough to put me off. It's also pretty filthy - think about all the emissions kit there is on a diesel car nowadays - pretty sure that'd be like going back 30 years. Having said that, it'd probably run on heating oil (kerosene) which is a similar price. It'd still be filthy, but probably not much worse than an oil fired boiler. How would you plan on getting the hot air into your house?

I ran them for a couple of years and was happy with them. I chose them specifically because of the geofencing facility as there were four of us with very random schedules. I believe Nest now has that facility, but both require a subscription. As an early adopter there was no ongoing charge for the geofencing facility. The main downside was that none of the programming is held locally - it's all cloud based. That means that if the system loses internet connectivity it stays in the previous state. I was always slightly concerned that I'd come home to an empty oil tank because it had stayed on indefinitely.

Now you mention it, that does seem familiar. Even when I do a fresh build and fully update, the first time the user signs in (usually within a couple of days) it's common that there are firmware updates waiting.

If the meeting organiser records the meeting it gets stored in their OneDrive. This can then be shared like any other file.

Pretty much only running in the US at the minute. Other countries have stricter regulations - or Tesla doesn't want to take the risk with legal challenges in other jurisdictions. The FSD you can buy in this country at the minute just gives you the promise that when it's available, you'll get it for no extra cost. In the UK it's currently £3400 more than the next level down of driver assist and this enables a single feature: stopping at a red light.

There will be losses, but the heat is all kept within the closed system. Assuming the heat pump runs in the same ballpark as a CH one, you'll turn x amount of heat in the room to 3x amount of heat inside the drier. And that heat is still in the room unless the water is very hot and poured down the drain.

Thread hijack: Does this imply that to enable Windows Hello for hybrid AAD joined devices I need to change settings in the 365 tenancy rather than GPO on the domain controller? We've just acquired our first set of laptops with fingerprint readers!

Discount code works today. Just bought one to collect later for £29.99

Thanks @MYK-IT All good now [emoji41]

I have MDT and WDS set up and running for a range of Dell devices and MS Surface Pros, but I can't reply to HP Envy devices. PXE boot works and I get beyond choosing my Task Sequence, but it fails at OS deployment with: Disk (0) was not found. Unable to continue. Possible Cause: Missing storage driver. Failure (7711): Disk OSDDiskIndex can not be found Litetouch deployment failed, Return code = -2147467259 0x80004005 Disk(0) was not found. Unable to continue Possible Cause: Missing storage driver I have tried downloading the driver from HP and also extracted all drivers from a working device and added them to WDS, but I still get the same failure. Is it worth adding them to MDT instead? If so, does anyone have a good guide on how to do it? Any other ideas? Thanks in advance.

The Tipo - the hire car had a small petrol engine.

That must be engine sensitive - I had one as a hire car and I was changing down to 3rd to keep up speed on motorway inclines!

I think it's this - the question is how to stop them doing it.

I have and that's being dealt with. We do need to resolve the issues with printing though...