Andrew_C

Ummm... Just guessing, but it looks like it has less chocolate in the bar?

Years ago, on the Archimedes, there was a little programme that produced a family of cockroaches. They'd hide under open windows, and scurry off to new hiding places if their cover was moved or closed. Quite brilliant.

Youch... Any projection is going to struggle, you might even be making it worse by bringing the screen forward. I'd hire a screen and projector in and try it. You might even get someone local to give you a demo if you pitch it as a "trial before you buy".

Harkness, and Sanyo or Christie. Hope your pockets are deep, this is definitely one of those "to do it right is going to cost, but not as much as skimping" jobs.

The sealing doesn't really matter so much. The width of the gap does; air is about 33 times as effective as an insulator than glass is. However, on the flip side, if the gap is too big, you can have the air circulating within the unit, and convection becomes your enemy.

Don't extract into the loft; you are only moving the problem to somewhere you won't see it! *DOH! Just seen that you spotted that!* As I wrote above, removing moisture at source is the 1st step, second, remove any very moist air, third, deal with the remainder. But see my post on "positive pressure".

Strictly yes - but not as cold as running an extract will.

How much moisture are you putting in to the house? Shower / non-vented tumble drier / washing draped over radiators / open gas fire / lots of boiling food? Extract in the bathroom, extracting cooker hood (not recirculation), proper vent for tumble drier. After that, I'd look at "positive pressure ventilation". I've done that, and almost stopped any condensation. It pulls the slightly warmer than outside air from the loft into the house, rather than sucking your warm air out, which is replaced with cold.

The one that gets me is struggling to get something to fit; and only afterwards realising that if I'd stepped back and thought early on, I'd have spotted I was fixing wrong thing/it was upside down/it wasn't broken/whatever.

Surely, surely, the only good thing to come from the Brexit debacle is that we don't have to have this tosh cluttering up the airwaves any more?

Can you borrow a radio mic from drama/music to try it out? If not maybe a local theatre or theatrical hire company could advise. A system could be bought for £50 or so that could be connected to the existing classroom sound system.

If you look at the image you can see that if PE is disconnected, the case can rise to a non zero voltage, which can be significant. Cy capacitors. Example image, but conveys the gist.

Ummm... Outer insulation strilled WAY to far back, clamp on the inners, well it would have been if both screws were still there. Live terminal not tight enough so had over heated, further loosening the terminal, resulting in the plug melting. Earth terminal loose, and as you say, wire too short. Once the earth is removed, the filtering capacitors raised the shell of the machine to 1/2 live voltage.

Fixed now; some double posting weirdness...

Before I married Mrs_C, her dishwasher bit me. Not a full 240V shock, but a good tingle. So I looked at the plug.... It is now used in "How to wire a plug" lessons, and H&S "Why do we PAT?" sessions.

That's what I'd be inclined to do too...

Does anyone know, without me researching it, how many "residents" these systems handle? There are 5 of us, with quite varied patterns of home & away.

Planning "Permitted Development" doesn't mean you won't need "Building Control"; they are two distinct issues.

With traditional plumbing you've got bigger issues to sort first. You'd need a valve on the heating to divert the water up/down/both. This would only work if you have two loops of pipework, with no up/down links other than where the valve is. I believe there are radiator valves that can be individually wireless controlled. These could do what you want, but you'd need a valve per radiator.

Single RIGHT click on the .pdf, choose "open with", select "Word".

Yes. Music Group

Get the speakers fairly high, but angled down so that you minimise reflections off the walls. Don't expect hi-fi...

And there are three versions of the 5pin! 180º, 270º, and domino.

Has anyone experience of Cambridge Elevate? I've just been asked to look into it, and it looks a fairly complex licensing / code distribution to allow access to their on-line materials supporting their Pre-U courses.

8 pin isn't that common though - not like a 5 pin MIDI or cassette recorder lead!