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Converting Mid 2011 iMac to SSD HDD


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Posted

Hi there,

 

We have a brand new in box iMac (core i5-2400S, 8gb ram, 21.5 inch). It is obviously quite old now and not the thinner current version, but brand new.

It is model A1311 (EMC 2428)

 

I found quite a few youtube videos showing how to convert its old HDD to a SSD or how to add an additional SSD in near the CD/DVD drive.

 

All of these videos had links to where to buy the products, but sadly, most of those links no-longer work as the demand for such kits has probably dried up what with this being an older model.

 

Can anyone point me in the right direction? I only have the one iMac, but it is in such pristine condition, it seems silly not to make the most of it and get it beefed up and future proofed for an individual user to use.

Posted

These are nice to work on with the right tools.

 

You'll need a selection of bi-hex (Torx) bits, a pair of sucker clamps, a clear bench or floor space, and patience. The HDD can be easily swapped out with an SSD once you have the screen off, though a 2.5"-3.5" adaptor bracket would be neat. You can stick it down with some double sided foam tape.

 

Before you take it apart, stick the SSD in a USB enclosure and use Carbon Copy Cloner to image the OS across.

Posted (edited)
I found quite a few youtube videos showing how to convert its old HDD to a SSD

Buy a 2.5" to 3.5" bracket like the one @FN-GM linked to and the OWC temp sensor cable below and that's all you will need (assuming you already have the Torx screwdrivers and suction cups).

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00J42AFUA

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151865009110

http://www.thebookyard.com/product.php?products_id=10086

https://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIDIMACHDD11/

Edited by Arthur
Posted
Before you take it apart, stick the SSD in a USB enclosure and use Carbon Copy Cloner to image the OS across.

... or download the latest version of macOS using Internet Recovery after the HDD has been replaced with an SSD? The currently installed OS will be ancient! :)

  • Thanks 1
Posted
True, but it should allow direct upgrade straight to High Sierra from the App Store so not too onerous! Very, very small number of times I've installed OS X onto a clean disk - I think my last bootable USB had Yosemite on it...
Posted

We replaced the hdds in our 15 music macs over the summer for ssds.

 

We needed to use these adapters: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005PZDVF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gbA5zbR4Q5KV9

 

We had to use those as the sata and power connector weren't lining up.

Borrowed the suckers from the science dept and already had a set of torx :)

Quite easy, just rather tedious.

 

Then cloned the drive from the hdd.

Just had to make sure we enabled trim support afterwards.

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Posted (edited)
True, but it should allow direct upgrade straight to High Sierra from the App Store so not too onerous!

Internet recovery now allows direct upgrade to the latest compatible version of macOS too.

 

When Apple released 10.12.4 earlier this year they made some improvements to the recovery process which makes going from HDD > SSD much easier.

 

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204904

 

UaJaG7.png

 

http://eggfreckles.net/notes/internet-recovery/

 

Since the release of Mac OS X Lion:

 

  • Holding down Command + R at startup told your Mac to boot from the local Recovery Partition, allowing you to restore your Mac's installed operating system.
  • Holding down Command + Option + R at startup told your Mac to NetBoot from Apple's Internet Recovery, allowing you to restore your Mac to its original operating system.

This all changed on Tuesday when Apple released macOS 10.12.4.

 

macOS Recovery installs different versions of macOS depending on the key combination you press while starting up. Hold down one of these combinations immediately after pressing the power button to turn on your Mac. Release when you see the Apple logo or a spinning globe.

 

The new Option-Command-R keyboard shortcut lets you do an Internet recovery of latest macOS that is compatible with your Mac. So, rather than boot from a slow hard drive, wrangle the Mac App Store, download the installer, and then launch it, I just held down the keys and let it download and install all at once. The time estimate was way off (under), but other than that it worked smoothly and got my Mac booting again.

 

That said, this may not apply in @talksr's case. :)

Edited by Arthur
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Posted
Depending on your "finger strength" you may not need the suckers - I used to be able to pull the screens off by getting my nails gently behind them and pulling. Depends on how strong the magnets are I guess?
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Posted
I’ve done couple of the slightly older models. I was nervous about taking the screen off - but it was very easy (with suckers). Ssd made a huge difference even on a core 2 duo.
Posted

I've done processor and ssd upgrades on a couple of dozed 2010 and 2011 iMacs here.

 

It's easy enough.

 

Get a Decent converter caddy - we used the ones from HP workstations that have their own sata connection.

 

Removing the glass in front of the screen is easy enough. I managed them all without a sucker. Just get your nails behind the middle top of the glass and run them around the edge. Takes a couple of seconds.

 

Getting the display out is trickier as the magnets that hold the glass in will mess with the magnetism of your torx driver if you aren't careful. I found using a pair of tweezers alongside the driver helped no end.

 

There are four screws on each side of the screen.

 

Be careful when removing the display, you'll need to disconnect a couple of cables from the back before you can move it completely, just lean it forwards and reach behind to disconnect them.

 

It's a simple enough job to switch the drive out after that.

 

When putting the display back you mght want to use tweezers again to assist in getting the cables back in position. It's tight behind there.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
I've done processor and ssd upgrades on a couple of dozed 2010 and 2011 iMacs here.

 

It's easy enough.

 

Get a Decent converter caddy - we used the ones from HP workstations that have their own sata connection.

 

Removing the glass in front of the screen is easy enough. I managed them all without a sucker. Just get your nails behind the middle top of the glass and run them around the edge. Takes a couple of seconds.

 

Getting the display out is trickier as the magnets that hold the glass in will mess with the magnetism of your torx driver if you aren't careful. I found using a pair of tweezers alongside the driver helped no end.

 

There are four screws on each side of the screen.

 

Be careful when removing the display, you'll need to disconnect a couple of cables from the back before you can move it completely, just lean it forwards and reach behind to disconnect them.

 

It's a simple enough job to switch the drive out after that.

 

When putting the display back you mght want to use tweezers again to assist in getting the cables back in position. It's tight behind there.

 

Thanks everyone for your help on this. Any suggestions on the best SSD to get? Never done an iMac before, usually get the 256gb ones for HP systems, but that seems maybe too small.

Posted
Depends on what you're thinking of using.

 

Most macs these days ship with a minimum 256gb ssd.

 

It should be enough for most purposes.

 

Ok, I should think that would do the job. We could always use an external HDD if needed. Would this SSD replace the existing HDD or would it be in addition to it?

Posted

Typically you'll be replacing the internal hdd.

 

You could always use the sata connector used by the optical? There's not much use for a DVD drive these days.

 

Saying that, space is at a premium inside an iMac, you'd probably have to use some double-sided tape to stick it to the chassis when replacing the optical as it doesn't use standard mounting points.

Posted
I was going to suggest one of those, but then I found out the optical drive SATA port only runs at 3 Gb/s in the 2011 iMacs so didn't bother. :)

 

An SSD running at 3Gbps is still going to be faster than spinning rust!

 

But yes, you're better using the 6gbps port if you can.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Temperature sensor isn't usually an issue, except for the hdd fan going a little crazy.

You can use something like ssd fan control to keep the fans from assuming the worst and spinning furiously to combat some non-existent heat.

Or you could set the speed in terminal so they never clock above 2.5k rpm.

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