Hightower Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 ned to replace gasket on egr valve, but with being jap import not readily available. cananyone point me to some material that i can cut to size for this. if youve used it before too, let me know how easy it is, and what you used to cut it. thanks
unixman Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 Hylomar M or Loctite Master Gasket. Just squeeze it on.
DT2 Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 2mm mild steel and blank it off... they're mostly a setback anyway. Blanked mine off and got an increase in mpg by 5 miles.. not a great deal, but the bottom end torque is better too. And I no longer have to de-coke the valve every 6 months.... DT
hermand Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 2mm mild steel and blank it off... they're mostly a setback anyway. Blanked mine off and got an increase in mpg by 5 miles.. not a great deal, but the bottom end torque is better too. And I no longer have to de-coke the valve every 6 months.... DT This - just blank the sod off. It's purely there for emissions control and does nothing good for the engine, the performance or the economy.
DT2 Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 My emissions are rock bottom anyway - it runs on recycled chip oil DT
hermand Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 My emissions are rock bottom anyway - it runs on recycled chip oil DT Just can't bring myself to do that I'd just keep thinking of the inside of my precious engine!
CyberNerd Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 I've used cornflake packets as gaskets before - works pretty well on sump or crankcase covers. Otherwise RS should have suitable materials.
DT2 Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 Just can't bring myself to do that I'd just keep thinking of the inside of my precious engine! The effects are actually not that bad - some engines just don't deal with it very well. She gets a service every 6 months, and runs mostly 60/40 oil to diesel in summer, and 30/70 oil to diesel in winter to combat oil viscosity. My injectors are less clogged, emissions cleaner, and the corrosion on my exhaust system is half what it used to be. I have seen vehicles die a death from running on oil, mostly down to type of engine, fuel pump, lack of care etc. DT
plexer Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 M Barnwell Services Ltd - Gaskets & Sheet Materials Ben
hermand Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 (edited) The effects are actually not that bad - some engines just don't deal with it very well. She gets a service every 6 months, and runs mostly 60/40 oil to diesel in summer, and 30/70 oil to diesel in winter to combat oil viscosity. My injectors are less clogged, emissions cleaner, and the corrosion on my exhaust system is half what it used to be. I have seen vehicles die a death from running on oil, mostly down to type of engine, fuel pump, lack of care etc. DT Is yours common rail? I do anything from 500 miles a week onwards, so I've always been tempted. It's definitely the pump and injectors I'd worry about - I service it often, so the fuel filter doesn't really worry me as it's a 10 minute job. Edit; You've got me thinking now Does it make your car smell, though? Edited November 2, 2011 by hermand
Hightower Posted November 2, 2011 Author Posted November 2, 2011 How easy is it to cap off? Will that raise emissions for when it comes to MOT time? What about the pipe from the turbo - do I have to cap that off too?
DT2 Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 300TDI with EDC - I believe a Bosch VE type injection pump. Check HERE. If I remember correctly some common rail pumps have issues with viscosity causing failure. Injectors are fine, but I do add comma injector cleaner once per month. I do 300 miles per week. sometimes smells of chippy, but mostly unnoticeable from the drivers seat. There's plenty of info on the tinterweb about alternative fuels. Used oil does however need to be filtered and cleaned - 5 micron muslin with charcoal atop, and a teaspoon of potassium hydroxide (biofuel soap) filter into a barrel, allow to settle and drain from the middle. PITA that bit, so i usually nip to the cash and carry and buy new oil fro £19 for 20l... DT
DT2 Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 How easy is it to cap off? Will that raise emissions for when it comes to MOT time? What about the pipe from the turbo - do I have to cap that off too? All you need to do is add in a blanking plate where the EGR gasket resides on the valve channel. Nothing else. DT
Sirbendy Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 Either blank off, cardboard material (as said) or coke-can steel cut to pattern..heh. I blanked mine off with a purpose cut plate, left it connected but cabletied out of the way (there's an ECU flash for a manual to write it out, but not for an autobox car), and it's been no trouble since...heh.
Oaktech Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 if you have a common rail standard passenger car, or something with pompe douce then chip fat will kill it... check forums for compatibility. genrrally speaking the older and more basic the engine the more likely it is to work well.
Hightower Posted November 2, 2011 Author Posted November 2, 2011 Hmmmm, really not keen on the idea of blanking it off. Will just stick to cleaning it up.
hermand Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 Hmmmm, really not keen on the idea of blanking it off. Will just stick to cleaning it up. Honestly, you're missing out! It's a standard mod I'll do every car I have from now on.
Hightower Posted November 2, 2011 Author Posted November 2, 2011 But a) does it affect emissions and b) what happens with the pipe from the turbo? Do those gases just disperse straight into the air?
hermand Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 But a) does it affect emissions and b) what happens with the pipe from the turbo? Do those gases just disperse straight into the air? a) No, not to any measure worth worrying about and it certainly won't affect your MOT / legality. b) Nothing happens - I don't quite know what you mean, there. It's just like permanently having the valve closed which it is some of the time by design. Edit: To be fair, one issue you MAY have is the engine management light coming on. I guess that can be a deal killer for some people - I personally didn't have the issue, and often you can just get the code reset. Or live with it!
Hightower Posted November 2, 2011 Author Posted November 2, 2011 Ok, so forgive the cruddy paint drawing. The red circle shows the intake, the pink circle shows the egr valve strapped to the side of the intake, and the yellow circle shows what I figure to be the pipe from the engine (correct me where I'm wrong please). So I understand about capping the intake where the green line is, and removing the egr valve, but then this will leave the pipe highlighted in yellow unconnected and open. 1) What is this pipe (seems to connect to the block somewhere) 2) Does it also need capping? Disconnecting?
plexer Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 Is the other pipe the vacuum pipe for the egr? Ben
Hightower Posted November 2, 2011 Author Posted November 2, 2011 Well, excuse my ignorance as I'm just learning, but I thought it would be the pipe from the engine to feed the exhaust gases back round into the intake. EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Or have I got the complete wrong end of the stick?
Hightower Posted November 3, 2011 Author Posted November 3, 2011 Is this how you would cap off an EGR valve?
DT2 Posted November 3, 2011 Posted November 3, 2011 Don't worry yourself about removing the EGR completely that's unnecessary. All you have to do is cap the pipe leading to the intake - there should be a gasket where the EGR input meets the intake system - this is where you place a steel blanking plate. That is it. The EGR is still [technically] functional and shouldn't cause any issues with engine management - if you remove it you're opening a can of worms, unless you know how to dock the EGR circuit at the ECU. DT
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