RowlandoGloom

You could try a Win7/8 driver and see whether it works.

Cheers for the updates. I think I've sussed it. The Windows 7 driver (7.052.0203.2012) (from Realtek's site) works with all versions of Windows and WOL works The pre-installed driver, (9.1.402.2015) (included with Windows 10) does NOT work with WOL. The newer Windows 10 driver (10.10.714.2016) (from Realtek's site) does work with WOL. It looks like as MS technically dropped support for WOL, they've removed it from their own driver package. The newer driver includes it again. The zip file downloaded from Realtek's site has a silent_install.bat file and setup can be run as "setup.exe /s" to install the driver automatically. Good old MS. Web page with driver

Been there, done that haha. Even disabled fast startup 'HiberbootEnabled' = 0 in registry and power options. Windows has been told not to turn it off, it's been told to allow the the magic packet to wake it up etc to no avail. I had two machines setup exactly the same, one with the old driver, one with the new. The one with the old driver worked grrrr. I think I may need to remove the built-in one (if you can with built-in drivers?) from the WIM and inject the old one.

Even when the options are set in Device Manager it doesn't work. Sometimes they're not even visible. As I say, the only driver that will work is the Win7 one. Win8.1 didn't by default have it built in (don't quote me on that) so needed installing. Win10 has the driver included but a newer version.

Hi, I have a problem where WOL functionality has stopped working on Windows 10. Enabling different shutdown states and magic packet making etc. does not work as Google suggests. This is a Realtek NIC which uses the default built in Windows 10 driver. Manually installing the Win7/8 driver rectifies the problem. Is there a way to "force" the older driver to be installed or do I have to manually change it on 400 PCs? Cheers, Paul.

I'm surprise Adam Richman isn't standing next to it

That's where using a knife and fork is difficult. Usually there's paper on the board which gets chopped up and entangled in the cutlery.

Hey Guys and Gals, cheers for so many responses. It looks like neither of us are right or wrong, so there's no shame in how we do it. Although doing it with hands and putting the effort in is clearly the way forward out of 100 people so far.

Just a quick update. The relay board I purchased (as with most) come with a 817c optocoupler per channel built on to the board as a means of safety. Here is the relay I used

At least with Burger King and McDonalds everybody else does it so that's when. You get so little in some of them I can squash them down to a sensible size, that's if they're not already squashed already.

I'm on your side.

Well done, that looks fab - just don't blow yourself up. Glad you got it working.

I'd turn left given the main road veers to the right. Unless it's a roundabout - I'd reckon the cafe is on the side road to the left. If it is a roundabout, I reckon behind the camera.

That's good news. You'll have to take some pics of them in action now :-) Good work!

Sound good. What's the best way of going about getting one together haha

Give this a try as Scratch maybe a different version

Try pin11low

Good choice haha

Here's a long going debate between my other half.. You have a huge burger in a restaurant: Do you use both hands, pick it up and chomp into it, opening your mouth as wide as you can to fit it in - potentially ending up with more all over you and your face? Do you like me spend more time using a knife and fork, making sure you reduce spillage to a minimum and looking polite without the need to go and wash your hands afterwards?

Can you recommend some that'll be bright enough to replace the lamps with? Cheers.

The middle of the 3 connectors on the relay board. The middle is where the power from the transformer goes in, the outer two are where it comes out (N/C or N/O depending how you want them wired) pcstru, they're: 10A @ 250v AC 10A @ 30v DC. The bulbs are AC. DC can also really shorten the life of the relays too hence why they're rated lower etc. As like you say it can get very hot very quickly. Like is said before, it is down to the individual whether they go forward after weighing up the pros and cons. That is how I have my setup so if people disagree or want to change it of course feel free as its yours at the end of the day.

That would be too easy an idea lol

I agree you've made some good points. Funnily enough I am replacing the CAT5 cable with mains cable. Repetitive cycling of the relay is likely either to fry it or the lamp, both of which are easily replaced. The relays are rated for 250v AC at 10A - so there's no chance of voltage escaping to the Pi. The relay is inside the light again to prevent contact. It is definitely something to think of. I think each school must weigh up the pros and cons and make their own informed decision.

Hi Martin, I'm trying to get a drawing together for you. You will first need a relay (I recommend one of these to start with.) You can use 3 of the 4 channels here. The relay in the link is mechanical, you will hear a click when the bulb changes. You can buy silent solid state ones, but they can really go bang if you wire them wrong - plus they may have a lower amperage. I would put the relay inside the lights somewhere so there is absolutely no chance of 240v escaping. This is all based on my assumption as to how yours work. The lights currently plug into the mains with a cable, probably from an old extention lead and a 13amp or lower fuse. Try to keep the fuse as low a rating as possible so there's more chance of it popping in the event of failure. Turn all I bet the earth isn't even conencted to anything. The lights should have 3 transfomers inside (one for each lamp.) I assume at the moment the mains cable you have is connected to a distribution block (terminal block) powering all 3 transformers at the same time. I would make sure the distribution block is rated equal to or higher than the fuse so it doesn't potentially overheat and melt. The transformers will all have a metal cover and they will be srewed to the outer plastic case. I assume the screw hole is metal and part of the transformer cover. If they are not earthed: If the mains cable doesn't even have an earth, get rid of it and use an old extension lead by taking the end off. On the end of the earth cable from the mains lead attach one of these. You may need pliers to connect them as you may not have a crimper, make sure you pull them hard to double check they're tight. Where the transformer screws to the case, make sure you put the ring on the screw between the transformer and case. Get an earth cable from an old PC power cable and chop a length long enough to leave the foot of the first transformer to the foot of the second. Add a ring to each end. This time, attach one end to the screw on the first transformer and to the screw of the second. Repeat the second to third. If there is any metal on the case with a screw attached, it is a good idea to connect the earth from the first or third to the case too. Between each transformer and the bulb there will be two 12v cables. Cut one of the cables in the middle. As the lamps are AC, you can cut either cable. If say one is red and the other black etc. however, always cut the red one. Attach a single terminal block to each end you've cut (DO NOT SHORT THEM OUT.) Just in case the wattage is high, I would use mains cable here. On the relay there is usually 3 'outputs' per module. The middle is the input. The other two are 'normally connected' or 'normally open' 'Normally connected' = When the relay board is powered up and there is no input, the relay is 'on.' When there is an input, it turns it 'off' 'Normally open' = Is the opposite way round. When the relay board is powered it is 'off' and when there is an input, it turns it 'on' For the red light, you want to use relay one. Make sure cable leaving the transformer is connected to the common. The cable to the bulb must be connected to the 'normally open' so that it will only turn the bulb on when the pi tells it to, otherwise the pi will turn it off when it should be on etc. Repeat for yellow, channel 2 Repeat for green, channel 3 On the header side of the relay there will be 6 connectors: +5v 1 2 3 4 Gnd Connect the +5v and Gnd to the correct pins on the pi respectively using jumper wires. You may need to use a breadboard as the cables are usually m-f. If you already have f-f cables great, you don't need a breadboard. If you have two m-f cables, you can chop the pins off and and make one f-f. Here is a pinout of the pi Relay PIN1 (red) = PIN15 on the pi (BCM 22) Relay PIN2 (yellow) = PIN13 on the pi (BCM 27) Relay PIN3 (green) = PIN 11 on the pi (BCM17) Relay PIN4 = not connected. I hope this helps. Paul.

True. I appreciate your advice as it does give a bigger picture. All the high voltage components are inside the lights and inaccesible to students. Lets see what you think: 1) If anything, being designed for outdoor use implies to me that things will be of superior quality to withstand greater use. 2) I am not sure which elements. Usually when they are up, by design, 240v is sent to an individual transformer in the light (one for each lamp). This is fed by 3 240v supplies from the outside. This is then stepped down to 12v by the transformer (by design), then this is the cable travelling to the relay. 3) As above - the transformers haven't been modified. Intead of 3 individual 240v supplied, there is a new 13amp internal terminal block designed for mains distribution providing power to each transformer. This is using a 13amp extension cable. There is usually no earth entering the lights. This is NOW hard wired to every metal component (and the metal cases of the transformers,) thus down the power cable to the plug. 4) Yes I am and they have been fully PAT tested. The 12v cables use CAT5 cables which is a lower AWG than required (the lower the AWG, the thicker the cable.) 5) They are indeed 6) All the 240v kit is inacesible as it is inside. It is therefore the same as if students were accessing tube lights on ceilings for example. 7) True, good point