webman Posted January 5, 2011 Posted January 5, 2011 Nearly all (over 300) of our monitors are AG Neovo E-17DA models. Over time, we have identified two recurring faults with them: Monitor doesn't power up (Problem: 1 bad solder joint) Monitor displays image for half a second before disappearing (Problem: bad capacitors) Our problematic monitors were originally repaired under warranty, but now we have a large number that are no longer covered. Having nothing to lose, we set about attempting to repair these ourselves, saving us £130 per unit in the process. You can find a HOWTO guide (with photos) that I put together here: Neovo LCD repair - Bishop Barrington IT Support Hope that's useful to someone - enjoy. 4
FreeWill Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 We have the 'Monitor doesn't power up' issue and were previously stockpiling 15+ out of warranty monitors with this fault. The fix you suggest works. This will save the school hundreds of pounds; thank you very much indeed.
DrCheese Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 I love you. We've had so many of these die with these exact faults - Our own attempts at repair weren't that successful. Got a whole bunch of them in storage still so we'll give it a shot! I was getting quite annoyed with it to be honest, our stock may be 4/5 years old but tons have gone recently
plexer Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 damn I only just put back together the monitor I had dismantled with the no power fault as I couldn't see anything wrong with the caps. Ben
webman Posted February 8, 2011 Author Posted February 8, 2011 FreeWill, DrCheese: We were in the exact same situation, and thought there must be a simple and cost-effective solution. Glad it's helped
plexer Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 Ok dismantled it and coil joints looked perfect to the naked eye but resoldered them also re-did one extremely dry looking joint on a resistor and voila it works Shouldn't step 9 be Insert one of the screws on the inverter board.??? Ben
webman Posted February 8, 2011 Author Posted February 8, 2011 Shouldn't step 9 be Insert one of the screws on the inverter board.??? Probably. I might have been thinking of the one that secures the metal bracket in place for the inverter, but screws into the logic one.
timbo343 Posted February 17, 2011 Posted February 17, 2011 @Webman This is a stab in the dark but do you know where i can get an inverter board for an AG Neovo monitor? I have been in contact with winston from Holland but for some reason he isnt answering my emails now. Thanks
bossman Posted February 17, 2011 Posted February 17, 2011 Probably. I might have been thinking of the one that secures the metal bracket in place for the inverter, but screws into the logic one. Sounds pretty logical to me and I should know, I work with @webman
bossman Posted February 17, 2011 Posted February 17, 2011 @timbo343: I have tried to gather this information for ourselves but unfortunately have only come up with this so far: AG Neovo E-17DA - Badcaps Forums You will probably have to register (not a bad idea) but this is as much as I can muster at this moment. P.S if you do find anything please post
timbo343 Posted February 17, 2011 Posted February 17, 2011 Thanks Bossman What part number do i use. I have attached a photo of the board in question
plexer Posted February 17, 2011 Posted February 17, 2011 Compal as listed on the white sticker is a chinese electronic manfacturer but that number brings up nothin. Ben
plexer Posted February 17, 2011 Posted February 17, 2011 AG Neovo E-17DA LCD Monitor on eBay (end time 27-Jan-11 11:29:01 GMT) Has had a new inverter board fitted may be worth a message to the seller to see if he can source them? Ben
webman Posted February 17, 2011 Author Posted February 17, 2011 plexer: In one of bossman's posts about the Badcaps forum, it seems that the seller of that Ebay item is a member on the Badcaps forum that bossman has contact with
hakko Posted February 17, 2011 Posted February 17, 2011 Nearly all (over 300) of our monitors are AG Neovo E-17DA we set about attempting to repair these ourselves, saving us £130 per unit in the process. How long does it take to repair one?
webman Posted February 17, 2011 Author Posted February 17, 2011 hakko: Just a re-solder: 15 minutes. Full capacitor replacement: 40-50 minutes. Those times are just for me - it depends on how comfortable people are with soldering, taking things apart etc. It also takes time to gather & set out tools and put them away again afterwards, so I wait until I have a morning or afternoon in order to do 3-4 of them at a time. The first time you do it will probably take a little longer to do.
timbo343 Posted February 17, 2011 Posted February 17, 2011 plexer: In one of bossman's posts about the Badcaps forum, it seems that the seller of that Ebay item is a member on the Badcaps forum that bossman has contact with I have just put 2 and 2 together and emailed Sabre via the ebay site. Fingers crossed
codecharmer Posted February 19, 2011 Posted February 19, 2011 (edited) This is a great post, wish I would have found it earlier. Webman - This yellow board with no traces on top, is this a new board they replace when you send them in under warranty? OR Do all your E17-DAs have this board? I ask because my E-17A (analog only) has a different board, although it still uses the same 12v 4amp DC power supply, and the long rainbow connector looks the same. Picture and Schematic attached. Curious about the 3 pin Red, Brown, Black connector on your board. The pinout of the longer rainbow is: Pin1 - BLACK - +5vDC for Audio Pin2 - BROWN - GND / Audio (although pins 2, 3, 4 are tied together) Pin3 - RED - GND Pin4 - ORANGE - GND Pin5 - YELLOW - Brightness Pin6 - GREEN - Enable (1.5v-3.3v=backlight ON) Pin7 - CYAN - +5vDC for Mainboard Pin8 - DRK/BLUE - +5vDC for CPU Pin9 - N/C - Direct connect to +12v power supply On the BadCaps website, it appears he using +12v, GND, and Enable for the generic inverter. As a final note, looks like I'll be trying the generic inverter. My capacitors on the board seemed fine, so I thought it was the power supply. I bought a 12v 5amp replacement unit. I know it was 1amp higher rated, but figured the monitor would only pull what it needed. It did. Enough to blow U920 and U960, also cracked diodes D980 and D981 then burned up the new 12v 5amp power supply as it filled the room with smoked component incense. As in most of my other bad electronic experiences, the fuse (F901) didn't save anything!E17A-Inv-Schem.pdf Edited February 19, 2011 by codecharmer Added smoked board image 1
webman Posted February 19, 2011 Author Posted February 19, 2011 codecharmer: I can't be 100% sure what they do when sent away for repair; but it does seem that the problem is only with the yellow board - but yes, all of our E-17 monitors have that same one (bar a few very minor variations in identification marks). Sorry to hear about your fried board Usually, using a power supply rated for a higher current shouldn't be a problem, but in this case it was - maybe pointing towards bad protection due to failing components.
sabre504 Posted February 19, 2011 Posted February 19, 2011 Hi all the reason i had to use a generic inverter was that the tracks on the rear of the board were trashed from an exploding part see pic Also had problems getting a new board but the unit still has all menus and controls If anybody needs more info please do ask Paul
daveyboy Posted February 19, 2011 Posted February 19, 2011 Just for info - Rocate is where we get our inverters from. Andy is the guy to talk to.
hdallee Posted June 16, 2015 Posted June 16, 2015 Hi All, sorry for replying to this old thread but the link to the HOWTO guide in the first post is now not available. Does any of you still have the guide? Could you please share it with me? I have the same problem with a similar monitor. Thank you in advance!
webman Posted June 16, 2015 Author Posted June 16, 2015 Unfortunately the original content is gone I did manage to salvage some of it though, so here it is. Sorry all the details aren't there. The references to photo numbers won't be that meaningful, and there are some steps missing from the end. But once you do the procedure(s) on your first monitor, you should be able to follow the gist of it and muddle through, at least. Link to photos. --- The following two recurring faults were identified: Monitor doesn't power up. Monitor displays image for half a second before disappearing. Our problematic monitors were originally repaired under warranty, but now we have a large number that are no longer covered. Having nothing to lose, we set about attempting to repair these ourselves, saving us £130. This post will hopefully serve as a reference to rectify these two problems but comes with no warranty. We take no responsibility for any results after following the guide here. It works for us - please exercise caution when carrying out repair of any electronic equipment, and only continue if you feel confident enough to do what is required. Start with the monitor face-down on a clean flat surface that won't scratch the display, with the top of the monitor closest to you. Unfold the base stand and remove the two large screws that hold it in place. Push the base out. Remove screws on all 4 corners of the display. The cover is still held in with about 3 clips on each side - start with the side where the headphone jack is. Insert a flat strong instrument (flat screwdriver, strong butter knife - is what I had at the time!) above the socket and twist to prise the top off - it will unclip. Carry on until the "top" of the monitor is the last side, and just lift the cover away from the monitor. Remove all screws from the metal shield and remove it. This is where the problems are. First, detach the 4 lamp cables from the side. These are coloured blue, black, pink and white. Then remove the two cable connectors from the logic board that connect the inverter to it. Remove the two screws from the inverter board, and also the one screw from the logic board that also holds down a bracket for the inverter board. To one side, lift away the inverter board. Problem 1 - no power. This is caused by a bad solder joint on the main coil at the bottom-left of the inverter, and just requires re-soldering. It will have a small crack between the solder and the pin, and in some cases is only just visible with the naked eye - use a magnifying glass. It's most visible in photo 9 (Possibly this one?) Place the board with the component side downwards. Locate the solder joints for the coil - just next to the rubber pad (if it remained stuck to the board). Apply some flux to the joint, and heat up with soldering iron. Apply solder and soldering iron. Repeat previous two steps once more if necessary to achieve a good joint. It might be a good idea to re-do the other joint next to it while the opportunity is here. Re-attach the two connectors from the logic board as well as the 4 lamp wires. Insert one of the screws on the logic board. Apply power supply to connector and test that the monitor turns on. If this is the only problem, the "Check video cable" message should appear and remain there for several seconds. Congratulations - it works! Re-assemble the monitor - screw in the inverter board, the shield, the cover, and the base stand. Problem 2 - image disappears after half a second. This is due to 4 failing (or totally failed) capacitors on the inverter board. This is indicated by one or more the capacitors bulging or having dark lines at the top of the components - see photos 5 and 6. (This photo shows the capacitors) The failed ones need to be replaced with ones of equal value or higher. It's good practice to replace all of them - there are only 4 of them; and each set of capacitors will cost under £1 from Rapid Electronics. The values are as follows: C41: 1000uF 10v 105c (Rapid code: 11-1542). C43: 470uF 25v 105c (Rapid code: 11-1546). C5 & C6: 220uF 25v 105c (Rapid code: 11-3704). Remove the inverter board as described above. De-solder and replace one capacitor at a time - here's a good guide on desoldering components - Desoldering When soldering in the new capacitor, making sure its polarity is correct. ... and that's it! Hope that helps, and good luck! 2
hdallee Posted June 16, 2015 Posted June 16, 2015 Thank you very much, webman! I will report on the outcome but unofrtunately it will take some time. All the best!
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