Networking an outbuilding

[CHR1S]

I would like to get a network connection to an outbuilding maybe 10 meters at most. Cost is a big factor so I would like to get internet access to the room for as cheap as possible and with minimal fuss (no digging or lasers).

 

Has anyone done this via wireless before that could lend some pointers on best setup and things to try? Is it as simple as bridging 2 APs, I dont have any spare hardware to test it.

 

Thanks

 

Chris

[cookie_monster]

We have just got two of these setup in bridge mode and they work very well. This model will also accept an external antenna which we have as they're 40-50 meters apart. At 10 meters I don't think you'll need an external antenna but it's there as an option if required.

 

EDIT

 

Oh and you can use PoE with the right version.

 

DrayTek Vigor AP-700 Wireless Access Point

Edited November 3, 2009 by cookie_monster

[CHR1S]

Thanks Grant, will look into scrounging up some test hardware and give it a go.

[cookie_monster]

I don't think all models support bridging but we've had three different sets or AP's in bridging mode and they've all worked well. We only have three PC's on the other end but that was on 802.11g the DrayTeks are 802.11n.

[maniac]

If it's possible to get a wire to the building, then I would seriously consider this rather than wireless as it will be much more reliable. The cables that power the outbuilding must come from the main school somewhere so there will almost definitely be a way of getting a cable to it be it underground in a duct or overhead on a wire. It will be well worth the extra effort as the one and only time I've experiented with a wireless bridge, it was hidiously un-reliable.

 

Mike.

[CHR1S]

I will also ask the site manager as well

[patty04]

at a school where i worked we had a wireless bridge to a outbuilding and it hept dropping everytime it rained it was only about 8 meters from the main building. so we changed it to outside cat5 from a pole to another pole on the building. and had no problems at all, even when it became windy.

[CHR1S]

at a school where i worked we had a wireless bridge to a outbuilding and it hept dropping everytime it rained it was only about 8 meters from the main building. so we changed it to outside cat5 from a pole to another pole on the building. and had no problems at all, even when it became windy.

 

I thought the voltage difference between buildings would stop you from doing that as they are not joined? My knowledge on this is a bit hazey tho, can someone clarify please?

[patty04]

I thought the voltage difference between buildings would stop you from doing that as they are not joined? My knowledge on this is a bit hazey tho, can someone clarify please?

 

im not sure on that, i just done as i was told and wired it up.

[maniac]

I thought the voltage difference between buildings would stop you from doing that as they are not joined? My knowledge on this is a bit hazey tho, can someone clarify please?

 

I think it's only an issue if the earth bonding in the different buildings isn't linked, but most outside buildings I've come across in schools the earthing all goes back to the main building, so these things are not normally an issue.

[dhicks]

I thought the voltage difference between buildings would stop you from doing that as they are not joined?

 

Our electricians seem quite happy to festoon the place with cables on wires strung between buildings, although it does look a bit untidy. If it's only 10 metres could you just get a pick-axe and a shovel and dig a trench, put a bit of hose or something inside and poke some cable down it? You can also buy ready-terminated fibre, ready to run between your end points, 10 metres should be less than £100 although you'd need fibre-capable switches at each side, obviously. The cheap option for a wireless link is to build your own directional antenna - "cantenna" - out of empty Pringles cans.

 

--

David Hicks

[MYK-IT]

Installed something similar last year, we ended up going with an overhead fibre-optic cable. This was to eliminate any potential earthing related issues between the 2 buildings as well as protection against any lightning strikes.

[cookie_monster]

If it's possible to get a wire to the building, then I would seriously consider this rather than wireless as it will be much more reliable. The cables that power the outbuilding must come from the main school somewhere so there will almost definitely be a way of getting a cable to it be it underground in a duct or overhead on a wire. It will be well worth the extra effort as the one and only time I've experiented with a wireless bridge, it was hidiously un-reliable.

 

Mike.

 

 

We have used a wireless bridge for 6 years without issue.

 

 

I can't remember the exact rules on running UTP between buildings but as stated it is to do with earthing. It's generally recommended that you use fibre.

[Bezwick]

Have you thought about a powerline product, ie sending the signal across the mains power, if its just on office might be worth looking into. We use it here for one of our remote buildings, really easy to set up and works fine. You just have to make sure that you put both boxes on the same circuit.

Should be able to pick a couple up for less than a WAP.

[cookie_monster]

I thought the voltage difference between buildings would stop you from doing that as they are not joined? My knowledge on this is a bit hazey tho, can someone clarify please?

 

Chris, this is what I've read in a post somewhere and I seem to remember being told this by our cable contractor, this is why all our runs between buildings are fibre. (Maybe they were just trying to upsell me to fibre though ) The distance of your run might make it ok but I'd check with someone who knows from a health and safetly perspective.

 

 

You can use copper between buildings but you will have to worry about lightening strikes. If it leaves from one building to another it needs to be a PE type cable. This needs to be terminated within 50' of the entrance on protectors. Because of the high smoke of this cable, it can be extended past that point if it is in a rigid conduit. This also needs to be grounded and bonded. Telephone cables (Cat 3 or Cat nothing) are done this way all the time. Trouble is, this is expensive by the time you add the cost of Cat ?? rated protectors. This is why most people use fiber for their data needs between buildings. Fiber is glass and not a conductor of electricity.