Anyone good with car sound systems?

[abillybob]

Explain to me what's actually happening in the diagram. Before you modified anything there were 4 sets of connections from the head unit 2 to the front speakers and 2 to the back. How have you added the amplifier into the system?

 

Yup basically then just bridged the connection from the left and right rear speakers to the high input level on the amp!

[Pyroman]

Yup basically then just bridged the connection from the left and right rear speakers to the high input level on the amp!

 

First of all i'd set everything back to stock and make sure it all works, if it doesn't then you obviously have an issue with either the head unit that you've possibly blown up or wiring that you've cut or a speaker that's blown.

 

If it all works I'd disconnect the rear speakers and put the high input from the HU -->rear speakers straight into the amp high input and then use the amp outputs to power the back speakers and bridge another channel to do the sub (assuming it's a 4ch amp)

Edited February 27, 2015 by Pyroman

[abillybob]

I'd disconnect the rear speakers and put the high input from the HU -->rear speakers straight into the amp high input and then use the amp outputs to power the back speakers and bridge another channel to do the sub (assuming it's a 4ch amp)

 

It's only 2 Channel Came with my Sub.

 

If I buy an aftermarket HeadUnit would this sort out all my problems?

[woodham]

is the amp still in now? looking at that diagram I would guess at a stuffed head unit due to being driven to hard.

 

the audio places know what it costs per hour to them and if they turned round and said its 12 hours work to strip and install this cabling properly at X per hour people would laugh at them and then it could still be your head unit

 

but we could check that for you it will take 3 hours to remove test and refit due to panels that have to come off at X pounds per hour what would you say?

 

Try Asking them if you remove the head unit and bring it to them could they test the outputs on it for you ?

 

a basic sub setup with subs in a free standing box use to take me the best part of a weekend to wire in properly removing trim/pannels clamping cables down soldering and testing all joints . and that was without fitting sound deadening to the car

[Pyroman]

It's only 2 Channel Came with my Sub.

 

If I buy an aftermarket HeadUnit would this sort out all my problems?

 

An aftermarket head unit would probably work. Make sure it comes with RCA outputs for the sub, then you can have: Front L/R & Rear L/R running directly from the head unit and run a set of RCAs to the boot and stick yer Sub/Amp in there. With not knowing what wires you've cut/changed though obviously there's no guarantees! As i've said above, i'd set everything back to stock and check what works before you buy anything else.

[abillybob]

I have put it all back to stock and found that all speaker outputs work except for the Right Rear one even with the stock speakers. I did this before I cut out any wire etc.... I also made sure the stock speaker that was being used worked to rule that out by plugging it into the left rear output.

So I know that the output is broken somewhere but just unsure now whether the output on my Headunit is knackered because of what I did or whether it's just a break in the wire somewhere, could I test this myself in anyway so I can see whether it's the Headunit that needs changing or the speaker cable?

 

Again guys you have all been really fantastic, didn't get half as much advice on the Honda Civic Forum! Thank you!

[woodham]

yes you can test this you need a multi-meter

 

cuick and dirty test remove head unit put to one side with milti meter set to check continuity check each of the feeds from the head unit loom for that speaker wire run if your really lasy you can just join the two speaker wires together in a bit of danger block and do all the testing from the head unit end this will tell you if you have a break in the cable it you do then disconnect the cable and test each cable in turn to figure out which

 

if all is good then id suspect head unit

[abillybob]

yes you can test this you need a multi-meter

 

cuick and dirty test remove head unit put to one side with milti meter set to check continuity check each of the feeds from the head unit loom for that speaker wire run if your really lasy you can just join the two speaker wires together in a bit of danger block and do all the testing from the head unit end this will tell you if you have a break in the cable it you do then disconnect the cable and test each cable in turn to figure out which

 

if all is good then id suspect head unit

 

Great stuff. Will try this thank you everyone for all your help!

[3s-gtech]

If it's just one speaker not working, you may be lucky. I'd expect both channels to blow. Otherwise, test as above. If it doesn't work, you'll have to repair/replace/fit an aftermarket HU.

[abillybob]

By the sounds of things I'm guessing I'd be better off just fitting an aftermarket HU anyway since if I keep using the standard HU I'll be damaging it by putting a sub inside my car?

[Pyroman]

By the sounds of things I'm guessing I'd be better off just fitting an aftermarket HU anyway since if I keep using the standard HU I'll be damaging it by putting a sub inside my car?

 

No you could use the standard head unit but you'd have to get a 4 channel amp and use the two sets of rear speaker wires as high level inputs. You could then use 2 output channels on the amp to power the rear speakers and bridge* the other 2 channels to power the sub.

 

(* by bridge i mean use the selector switch and wire as per instructions on the amp not solder anything!)

Edited February 27, 2015 by Pyroman

[abillybob]

No you could use the standard head unit but you'd have to get a 4 channel amp and use the two sets of rear speaker wires as high level inputs. You could then use 2 output channels on the amp to power the rear speakers and bridge* the other 2 channels to power the sub.

 

(* by bridge i mean use the selector switch and wire as per instructions on the amp not solder anything!)

 

But then surely the rear speaker would be louder than the fronts?

[Pyroman]

But then surely the rear speaker would be louder than the fronts?

 

There's volume controls on the amp, you just even everything out. Make sure that when you wire everything all the positives and negatives are correct, it makes a difference to which way the speaker moves

 

Edited February 27, 2015 by Pyroman

[3s-gtech]

if I keep using the standard HU I'll be damaging it by putting a sub inside my car?

 

Only if you do it wrong. You can't run the rear speakers and the high level inputs from the HU at the same time.

[abillybob]

Thanks all again so this is my verdict. I'm going to write it down on here so people can have a nose if they wish but also because it's somewhere if I need to refer back to it again:

 

If headunit is confirmed working ok

- Pull out HeadUnit and locate the faulty wires, test with a multimeter that the connections from the Headunit are working if not and it's knackered look at replacing the Headunit.

- If HeadUnit is working re-wire it with the speaker cable I've got and install a 4channel amplifier to replace the two channel amp I currently have in my active subwoofer.

- Connect both rear speakers up to the amp and then bridge the other two channels to my subwoofer.

 

If headunit isn't working

- Replace headunit using the fascia from here and the wire converters for my current wiring loom Connects2 CTKHD01 Honda Civic Hatchback 06 Double Din Radio Installation Kit | eBay

- Re-connect all speakers in the doors

- Run a remote wire from the back of the double din headunit into active subwoofer amplifier

- Run RCA cable from back of new Headunit to Active subwoofer amplifier

 

Done.

[abillybob]

So over the weekend me and my dad replaced all the stock speakers still can't get that rear one to work though!!!

The speakers come with a Crossover and a pair of tweeters although I didn't use them I just wired the Woofer straight up to the speaker wire in my car, this is because my car has no where to mount the tweeters http://www.civinfo.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif

 

It sounds really bad though especially when the volume is turned up, sounds really distorted. What do you guys think I should do? I was thinking about installing the crossover but without installing the tweeters but I'm worried does this mean I'd loose all treble and only have Bass? I seriously have no where to mount the tweeters in my car the only option would be to drill a hole in the door which I'd much rather avoid!

[3s-gtech]

You're currently running a full range signal through a mid-range woofer - it has no designed way of playing high frequencies so will sound awful/muffled. If you connect the mids to the crossover without tweeters they will sound better (though have no high range audio) but the impedance may not be right again.

 

Basically, go and buy some good coaxials instead - they won't need any real modifying to fit.

[woodham]

please stop!

 

If you haven't already your going to destroy your new speakers.

 

take the whole lot to someone who knows what they are doing you need the crossovers and tweeters fitting to sound as designed , as the speakers are not full range and you are going to kill them going on as you are.

 

 

did you test the cables? and the head unit and what was the outcome ?

[abillybob]

Basically, go and buy some good coaxials instead - they won't need any real modifying to fit.

 

Ok might do just this!!! Don't know what to do with the current speakers I've just bought though cost me over £80 as well! What brand speakers are best? Could you recommend any? I'm looking at some Pioneer's at the moment but I've only ever used Edge!?

 

I miss the good old days with my Clio and Pug 206 the speakers upgrades for them where easy as pie!

 

please stop!

 

If you haven't already your going to destroy your new speakers.

 

take the whole lot to someone who knows what they are doing you need the crossovers and tweeters fitting to sound as designed , as the speakers are not full range and you are going to kill them going on as you are.

 

Can't get anyone else to do it, tried a few places local to me and they wouldn't touch it, used excuses like you'll never fit anything in there and the one said it wouldn't be worth there time even when I said I'd pay whatever.

 

did you test the cables? and the head unit and what was the outcome ?

 

I tested both the HU outputs and the Cables with a multimeter but nothing from either. Would this mean the HU is blown?

Edited March 2, 2015 by abillybob

[woodham]

did you test a known good working cable run and channel ? just to see what you should have been getting

[3s-gtech]

As stated. Get that speaker working - test cable run, test the amp with the speaker on a short wire from the HU.

 

Edge stuff is budget, cheapo, good enough stuff. It's not exactly worth the upgrade from standard in most cases. Car audio is 90% install, 10% equipment. Poorly installed premium aftermarket speakers will sound worse than deadened, well mounted standard ones (that aren't knackered/caned).

 

Get some sound deadening around the speaker locations (doesn't need masses, just a bit behind and around if funds are tight). If you want aftermarket speakers, look at the well established brands. I've used Pioneer, Alpine, JBL, some old-school Sony (not XPlod), Hertz and Rockford Fosgate coaxials/components. All did the job fine. Quite impressed with the Hertz setup in my 106, not cheap but tough units. Your Edge stuff won't have much resale value, but best to flog it if you don't want to fit the tweeters.

 

To be honest, rear speakers aren't important anyway really - better to have some good speakers upfront! Only bass should come from the back (low frequency audio is less directional than highs), the old-school job of sticking amped 6x9s on the parcel shelf sounds awful IMO.

[abillybob]

How are Blaupunkt Speakers? I've heard good things about them and found these Blaupunkt GTx 662 DE speakers 6.5" 165mm 16.5cm 2way coaxial 200W Max in car 3165144333555 | eBay What do you think? The other one's I've found are PIONEER TS-G1722i - 6.5" 17cm 2-Way Coaxial Powerful Audio Car Speakers 240W | eBay The only Sony one's I've found in my price range are these 500 Watts a Pair Sony XS-GT1728F 6.5 Inch 17cm 2 Way Car Door Coaxial Speakers | eBay though you said to avoid the xplod series how come?

 

This is the standard speaker that comes with my Honda Civic, anything is an upgrade from that, the magnet is tiny and if you turn up your music they crackle and sound awful so you have to keep them at low volume.

 

I've also found some sound deadening 8 Sheets Car Sound Proofing Deadening Vehicle Insulation Closed Cell Foam 10mm | eBay

 

For the Headunit I'm going to be replacing it with this Connects2 CTKHD01 Honda Civic Hatchback 06 Double Din Radio Installation Kit | eBay and Sony XAV-602BT Head unit Double Din DVD Bluetooth Touchscreen | eBay

 

Would this be all ok? I just want to check with you folk as I don't want to up again!

[woodham]

im out.

[abillybob]

did you test a known good working cable run and channel ? just to see what you should have been getting

im out.

@woodham Sorry mate missed your post.

Yeah tried connecting it with wire that was tested and when connecting the multimeter up to both ends of the new wires nothing was happening so I'm guessing dead HU? It was my fault because the way I wired it all up Just trying to sort it out now but in this car it's a nightmare.

[woodham]

ok one last thing look at the rms figures on speakers not the peak figure you want the two numbers to be close together most of those speakers are 40 -45 watt speakers

 

alpine or Rockford fosgate use to make fantastic speakers

 

now im out