Charging batteries on a APC Smart-UPS 5000VA

[Harlquinth]

Hi,

 

Just wondering if anyone knows anything about what sort of cells are used in APC battery cartridge #12 used in the APC Smart-UPS 5000VA?

 

I have a APC Smart-UPS 5000VA, which I managed to get when it was being thrown out, which I've been planning for a while to connect up at home to run my home network/server off.

 

I've not yet managed to connect it up yet however (mainly due to it requiring a 25 amp circuit, which I plan to get sorted when I upgrade my fuseboard).

 

One of my friends mentioned though that it's likely to affect the life of the batteries if not in use for a prolonged period, so as it's already been over a year since it was last in use, I'm just wondering if anyone knows if it is possible to charge the cells of the battery cartridges separately instead using a separate/standalone charger, rather than the ups itself, to keep their life going.

 

Does anyone have any ideas/advice?

 

Thanks, Peter.

 

(edit: Haven't found much info about the batteries whilst searching the internet - this is the best I've found so far on APC's website, however it doesn't have much info about the cells: http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=RBC12&tab=models)

Edited February 14, 2014 by Harlquinth
additional info

[3s-gtech]

If you just want to charge it up, you should be okay just plugging it in (as long as there's no load on it). If the batteries are very flat they may pull a big current on connection though.

 

Can you access your cooker power supply? Isolate that and swap over to this, you should be able to top it up safely without the risk of blowing any trips.

 

Otherwise, I'd just wait until you have the new supply installed. Any damage done to the cells will already be done by now, but they are designed for deep cycle with thick plates.

[plexer]

They are just packs of 12v sealed lead acid batteries so you could disconnect them and charge them using a suitable car charger.

 

Ben

[Harlquinth]

Thanks for the replies - will investigate the cooker power supply, as from memory it has a separate fuse (my board has fuses instead of trip switches as it's old!), or failing that I may be able to borrow a car charger.

 

Was also wondering if something like this would be suitable as well:

4000mA Charger for 12V sealed lead-acid batteries.

 

The batteries were already flat when it was thrown out, as the startup current/surge after draining it during a test kept tripping the server room trip switch! (We believe it may also have had something to do with work done a few weeks prior to this which involved lowering the site voltage to save power.)

 

Thanks, Peter.

[hawc]

If they are just Car batteries - charge them a bit at home and then pop it into the car and go for a drive!

[3s-gtech]

Don't try to start the car with them - they are unlikely to enjoy the CCA that a starter motor needs!

[plexer]

If the school implementes voltage optimisation which probably meant the input voltage is lower than the ups is expecting and that also needs to be configured accordingly.

 

Ben

[PotNoodleTech]

If they are just Car batteries - charge them a bit at home and then pop it into the car and go for a drive!

 

Only do this if you like setting your car on fire.

[PotNoodleTech]

A Smartups 5000 does not usually require any specialist power supplies. It's worth remembering that to charge the batteries won't take more than 1 amp @ 240v so you can safely plug it in to a normal 13a socket in order to charge it and do a load test on it (to make sure the batteries are healthy).

 

Do not take the batteries out and individually charge them.

[Harlquinth]

A Smartups 5000 does not usually require any specialist power supplies. It's worth remembering that to charge the batteries won't take more than 1 amp @ 240v so you can safely plug it in to a normal 13a socket in order to charge it and do a load test on it (to make sure the batteries are healthy).

 

Do not take the batteries out and individually charge them.

 

Thanks - will try a 13 amp socket then.

 

Is individually charging the batteries likely to damage them then?

 

Thanks, Peter.

[PotNoodleTech]

Thanks - will try a 13 amp socket then.

 

Is individually charging the batteries likely to damage them then?

 

Thanks, Peter.

 

You run the risk of not charging them equally and then when they are put back into the UPS the UPS will charge them all as one - thus you risk overcharging some of the batteries - when you overcharge them they can puff up.

 

If you charge each one perfectly - then you should be OK, but frankly I don't see the point of going to all that hastle when you can just plug the UPS in and it will do the job for you as it is designed to do without any kerfuffle.

 

Worth mentioning that if this is an old UPS you may find the batteries are not in great condition so you won't get the same runtime out of the UPS compared to when it was new. What I usually do is plug something in like a network switch if its a small UPS, or a desktop PC (or more than one) if it's a larger UPS, and do a load test by leaving it on and timing how long it takes for the battery to run out after unplugging it from the wall.

Edited February 17, 2014 by PotNoodleTech

[plexer]

The manual for that unit definitely says it should be hard wired to an isolator.

 

Ben

[PotNoodleTech]

Yep your right Plex. It looks like it would need to be installed by a qualified electrician. Ignore my previous advice about using a 13 amp socket!