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Posted
you coupd always stick some bloody big power caps between the supply and your connections , we use to do that to cars that had under powered alternators in them to smooth things out , id still be inclined to just call it a day and buy a propper 230v amp

So what capacitors would I need in order to do this? Do they need to be 12v rated? Also what uF would I need for this?

 

I'm presuming I'd have to put two capacitors one to the power of the amp and another to the power of the headunit?

 

Thanks :D

Posted
Wouldn't that still cause problems though considering it's a switching Power Supply? I thought I needed a Linear one?

 

No, those 2 power supplies you posted earlier are switch mode. The power supply I have on my bench for repair work is switch mode but it's not some cheap constant currant LED driver.

I've powered on my oscilloscope for the first time since I fixed it.

Can you guess which photo is of the quality power supply and the one that is like yours ?

20180309_174834.jpg 20180309_174803.jpg

20180309_173912.jpg

20180309_174001.jpg

Posted
No, those 2 power supplies you posted earlier are switch mode. The power supply I have on my bench for repair work is switch mode but it's not some cheap constant currant LED driver.

I've powered on my oscilloscope for the first time since I fixed it.

Can you guess which photo is of the quality power supply and the one that is like yours ?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]48027[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]48028[/ATTACH]

 

Cheers @difinity you've been a big help. Before I buy another power supply (as they're quite expensive) do you think a capacitor between the PSU and Amp/Headunit will help? I was looking at one like this?

 

and am I right in thinking that I can power both the headunit and car amplifier from this one capacitor because apparently the rule of thumb is 1 Farad per 1000Watts and my headunit and amplifier combined don't go over 1000 Watts. I've done some research and on the ol' interwebs it says that a capacitor helps to smooth the current?

 

I could be all wrong and if so I'll but the PSU you suggested and have my finger crossed but if the capacitor would help even just a bit I'd like to try that first. I just want to make sure I'm buying the correct things!

Posted
'Powercaps' have totally fallen out of the car audio scene, because they made a negligible difference. Even 1 farad is quickly dissipated. You're better off running from a car battery as the 'capacitor', and use the PSU to charge it. Or simply, get a decent PSU or home amp.
Posted
Cheers @difinity you've been a big help. Before I buy another power supply (as they're quite expensive) do you think a capacitor between the PSU and Amp/Headunit will help? I was looking at one like this?

 

and am I right in thinking that I can power both the headunit and car amplifier from this one capacitor because apparently the rule of thumb is 1 Farad per 1000Watts and my headunit and amplifier combined don't go over 1000 Watts. I've done some research and on the ol' interwebs it says that a capacitor helps to smooth the current?

 

I could be all wrong and if so I'll but the PSU you suggested and have my finger crossed but if the capacitor would help even just a bit I'd like to try that first. I just want to make sure I'm buying the correct things!

 

I haven't suggested any power supply, just shown an alternative that could be more suitable if you measure the current draw to save you some money over two power supplies you suggested.

My personal suggestion even though you've invested time is to sell it all and invest in some decent home audio. Doesn't have to be expensive and it will sound a whole lot better.

If you're determined to carry on, then measure the current draw, you'll then be able to work out the real watts and the most efficient power supply in cost for your set up.

Posted

I agree. Forget the idea of running the car audio its a bit of a waste of time and money. Sell it all.

 

You can pick up a decent little system for £100 - £200 and it will just work tidy and sound better.

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