Building a New Desk

[HaleStorm]

So...i decided instead of doing the normal thing and buying a new PC desk for my "man-cave" im going to build one to exactly how I want it.

 

This is what I want it too look like:

 

I'm planning on using 18mm MDF, the top surface is 1500mmx700mm to give you an idea of the size

 

Anyone done anything similar? any hints and tips?

[Greenbeast]

how are you going to fix the panels together?

[Pyroman]

Cracking stuff, looks good. Just watch out for putting too much weight on MDF, it has a tendancy to bow under too much weight i.e. if you lean on it

[Greenbeast]

indeed and because it's quite fibrous i'd be inclined to use braces of timber on the internal corners, so you screw through mdf into timber on both faces

[HaleStorm]

how are you going to fix the panels together?

 

I was thinking using brass self tappers, using some corner batons to give the corners a bit more strength

 

Or if my cousin (who is a joiner) is avaliable to come up, using hit router and stuff to make dove-tail joints

[HaleStorm]

Cracking stuff, looks good. Just watch out for putting too much weight on MDF, it has a tendancy to bow under too much weight i.e. if you lean on it

 

I was thinking of maybe putting some cross batons in too, width ways to give it some more rigidity and putting a bit of a vanity plate on the front so they are not obvious

[Seb1780]

MDF doesn't like being screwed into its edges, and the way you've drawn it the top will collapse as soon at you put you PC on it.

 

Battening the joints is far superior, although less visually appealing. Always screw through the MDF into the battens for a stronger joint. And use a good adhesive.

[HaleStorm]

MDF doesn't like being screwed into its edges, and the way you've drawn it the top will collapse as soon at you put you PC on it.

 

Battening the joints is far superior, although less visually appealing. Always screw through the MDF into the battens for a stronger joint. And use a good adhesive.

 

Would using a different material for the desk-top be better? say using something more like a classroom desk top type material?

[Seb1780]

Other materials are better in this respect, but cost soon goes up. If you can accept a slightly narrower desk you might get an offcut of kitchen worktop cheap from your local factors.

 

I've used MDF to make large shelves and uprights in the past using a "sandwich" technique whereby the MDF is strengthended with battens - a thinner piece of MDF on the underside making a nicer finish and a bit of beading around the edge tidies it all up nicely.

 

If I can find some pics I'll post them to show what I mean

[Seb1780]

I built the shelves in the background of this picture - all MDF and now supporting over 300 bottle of spirits. The thickness of the shelf edges is because each shelf is 12mm MDF/18mm stripwood batten/9mm MDF - all faced with a strip of 40x6mm strpiwood so you don't see the joins.

 

Woodbridge: The Angel pub hopes its collection of gin will see it break world record - News - East Anglian Daily Times

[unixman_again]

Nice project. I would opt for ply rather than mdf, but it will cost a lot more. There are a few ideas search Instructables for computer desks. Pallet wood seems a popular choice - free but there it takes a lot of work to get it looking nice. Here is the desk I've always wanted to make Popular Mechanics - Google Books I bought the mag as a teenager in 1973 and I still have it. One day!

[plexer]

Pocket hole screws and or biscuit joints.

 

Ben

[dhicks]

Anyone done anything similar? any hints and tips?

 

I have an Ikea desk with screw-on legs, modified with a rack on the left-hand side. If you have the space, I'd go for 19" rack fittings on one side or the other instead of a chunk of wood.

[jallsop]

speaking from experience with a train set (don't laugh), I know that 18 mm MDF will not be strong enough on its own. if you want to use this, you should construct the basic frame out of at least 24mm planed timber (comes in 2.1 and 2.4 metre lengths from most DIY sheds. This should look like a table, with no top. You need to master a join at the corners, which can hold the weight of all the sections, plus load. If the width of the desk is more than 75 cm, then it will need a third leg, at least at the rear, and possibly some strengthening at the front edges. I would use a more pleasant timber, maybe ply, which will flex too, but not as much, has a nicer finish, especially when varnished.

[HaleStorm]

It sounds like its getting more and more complicated, I've set my Chippie cousin on the task of getting a design together and he's going to get the wood for me too, so he will know what to get in the way of timber etc.

He said MDF isn't the way to go as well but he knows what design I want.

 

Hopefully we will get building in the summer and I will post some photos of the project. Thanks to everyone for there input

[north-ict]

I built a custom desk for my room about 5 years ago or more and still use it. I had some 2x4 lying around from some construction we were getting done to the house so used that as the legs and support. I then got some 3/4 mdf cut to a specific size and also ordered some reinforced toughened glass of the same size from the local glaziers. The reason I did this is so i could sandwich a specific comic book poster between the mdf and toughened glass. I had a can of silver spray paint left so sprayed all the legs with that and had my completed desk. I still love it to this day only thing i would probably do now is order some metal legs from ikea or somewhere and replace the 2x4. MDF edges can be an eye sore especially if you spill something it will soak it up and look bad. So definitely take into consideration the wood you will use. Good Luck with the project!

 

This is the the poster i used Its a big poster 140 cm in length

[Andrew_C]

Biscuit joints are the way forward with MDF. Once set up they are also very quick.

 

I'd agree with those that say 18mm is perhaps a little thin for the top; you can get 25mm, or laminate two bits of 18 together. Trimming the front edge would be good to give a nice finish. The other edges will take paint much better if you sand them, paint with a thin coat of PVA, then give a light sand. After this, paint as normal, if you don't the paint just soaks in.

[HaleStorm]

After a quick call to my Cousin, looks like the plan is making a frame from timber and cladding it with MDF top and bottom and using strip would as edging, as suggested above....as for sides Im trying to get hold of some "T-Legs" with cable management slots in them and build a small trolley type thing for the base-unit and microserver to stand on