jinnantonnixx

You really want good air flow in the loft. If yours has been 'membraned', you might want to consider gizmos called 'lap vents' which are plastic spacers that open up a channel between membranes. I fitted these in my loft and it's definitely helped with loft condensation I was experiencing. It also helps my PIV to get fresh air. Another important consideration with a PIV is making sure you loft hatch is sealed. Otherwise the PIV is pulling air through the loft hatch instead of outside and this will get you nowhere.

For those having problems with SIMS reporting and OneDrive, SIMS appear to be addressing this in the Spring release. https://customer.support-ess.com/csm?sys_kb_id=11beb97f1b39b5d0408d8557d34bcbb5&id=kb_article_view&sysparm_rank=1&sysparm_tsqueryId=3ce92cd81b82f114408d8557d34bcb6a See footnote:

I use a tent peg to open doors. You can engage every sanitation measure under the sun, but if your workplace requires you to open doors using a handle to get to your desk, it's an utter nonsense. You may as well cut out the middleman and shake hands with everyone in your workplace. Here'a a nice little story of how the virus can spread. https://app.getpocket.com/read/2919708911

Waveform 11 Free is now available. https://www.tracktion.com/products/waveform-free

I use Tracktion Waveform 10 for my music production. Tracktion company always release their older version for free. Obviously doesn't have the features of the new flagship software, but very good and 100% free. https://www.tracktion.com/products/t7-daw

Interesting axle mechanism. But I think people forget just how efficient a chain is. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_chain#Efficiency Carbon belt drives look interesting, but they either need a frame re-design to install through the chainstays or a joining mechanism. Don't forget they'll jam up with small stones, grit, mud and ice which cannot be compressed and pushed through a regular chain!

My escapade into the world of hub gears was a huge let-down. The seals on the hub were poor and the bearings ground down. Stripping the outer hub case revealed that the grease had turned into a muddy grinding paste and the bearings were totally shot. A huge disappointment. I replace and re-grease the bearings on my simple cup'n'cone bearings once a year and they're still going strong. A little pitted, perhaps, but many years left. As for hubs being "fully sealed and never need maintenance", I seriously doubt that. Smells like marketing to me.

First off, I ride a single-speed to work (with a KMC BMX chain) and a good quality mountain bike with a 1x11 on weekends. I'm a fan of single-speed, very simple and cheap, no gear cables and the chain tends to last longer as you can buy tough BMX chains that maintain a straight chainline. Edit: You can see my single speed adapter here. I still use the same bike daily, I've had it for seven years and do 12 miles a day on it. I estimate it's done over 20,000 miles. That's an indication of the reliability of single-speed. http://www.edugeek.net/forums/general-chat/99718-cycling-work-18.html#post1136273 But a derailleur, when properly adjusted and with good cables, is simple and very reliable. Spend 10 minutes on Youtube learning how to adjust the alignment and the end stoppers and most problems will be resolved quickly with a screwdriver. After a while, you'll need to change the gear cable. A simple job and your gears will run like new. On to hub gears - I was seduced by the apparent simplicity and reliability of the hub system (with back-pedal braking) so I got a wheel with a Shimano Nexus 3 speed. What an utter disaster that was. Putting it simply, it's not built for Welsh weather. Throw in some gritty canal paths, and the thing was ruined in three months. I attempted to change the bearings so I downloaded the schematic to see what was involved. I had to double-check to make sure I hadn't downloaded the schematic for the space shuttle. In a nutshell - forget it. It's a specialist service item, if you can find anyone to service it. The seals were pretty much non existent, the bearings had largely disintegrated even after a short period. I ended up chucking it and getting a regular single speed wheel (dished for a cassette, but with a single-speed adapter). My frame has track-ends so I can adjust the chain tension as it wears. So, not a fan of the Shimano Nexus hubs. I wouldn't consider a (leisure-priced) hub bike for anything other than recreational, dry weather riding. Of course, you can get Rohloff hubs, but they're a different class and price range.

^^^ What he said. Re-iterating how important it is not to start the machine up. If you boot it up, it will start writing to disk, potentially overwriting your data. Take the disk out and hook it up via a SATA/USB recovery kit/dock. Alternatively make a recovery boot CD/USB and boot with this image to load the tools you need. Some options for a live CD/bootable ISO are listed here. https://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk_Livecd Recuva is worth a shot and is one of the easiest tools to use. When things have gone badly wrong, I've used Testdisk and Photorec to recover photos from a disk (an EXT4 partition which was reformatted to NTFS) with success. https://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk_Download Testdisk can attempt to recover files if the file and directory structure is still available, otherwise Photorec can do a raw scrape of the disk looking for identifiable file-types. Be sure to omit the file-types you're not interested in, or you'll have a lot of sifting.

I *think* (and I might be totally wrong), that the RH is inextricably linked with the air temperature. The key word here is 'relative' in 'relative humidly'. It's defined as the air's ability to absorb moisture. The colder air (at the same RH as the warmer air) has a lower RH as it warms up when it enters the house, thus lowering the house's RH. I think that's the principle, but happy to be corrected. I fitted one a couple of years ago and I'm reasonably convinced that it's helping with dampness in the house.

The second 'kill connection' script above will allow you to disconnect whoever has stolen the single-user connection to the database and save you waiting next time!

From my old notes, usual caveats apply: Problem: Database Stuck in Single-User Mode In SQL Manager, run this query, inserting the correct database name. set deadlock_priority high alter database NAME-OF-DB set offline with rollback immediate; alter database NAME-OF-DB set multi_user with rollback immediate; alter database NAME-OF-DB set online with rollback immediate; If it's being held open by connections, kill the connections with this query: USE master GO DECLARE @kill varchar(8000) = ''; SELECT @kill = @kill + 'kill ' + CONVERT(varchar(5), spid) + ';' FROM master..sysprocesses WHERE dbid = db_id('INSERT-NAME-OF-DB-HERE') EXEC(@kill); Then try the first query.

'realmd' is the easiest way to join AD. Basically install realmd then connect with a single command. It walks you through it. https://www.techrepublic.com/article/how-to-join-a-linux-computer-to-an-active-directory-domain/

$1,499 !!! https://www.theverge.com/2019/11/13/20963294/motorola-razr-new-foldable-smartphone-android-hands-on-flip-phone-photos-video

I'm a keen mountain biker, and one by one my riding partners are getting e-bikes. I tried one of them other weekend (for the life of me I can't remember the brand, but it had top-end Fox shock and integrated battery, and was upwards of five or six grand. 29 on front wheel, 27.5 rear (mullets!)) Totally impressed. Apart from the obvious plus of going up hills quickly, the bike handled better than mine on downhills. The extra weight, which I thought would be disadvantage, lowered the centre of gravity and planted the bike firmly on the trails, on managed bikepark trails and off-piste. There was none of the skittishness you'd experience going fast over rocks. My bike is 'slack' but this had geometry very close to downhill bikes. So, to conclude, I want one.