Doing some Wiring - Advice Welcome

[Warwick_Tech]

Hi All,

 

Due to lack of a DIY forum I thought I'd post here.

 

We're running out of sockets in our Garage (despite having extra ones put in 2 years ago) but my Electrician friend has moved up North, so I thought I'd see if I could do this myself (before anyone panics you are allowed to modify lighting rings yourself, though ironically I would never modify sockets myself)

 

Basically we have 3 lights - two are plugged into the wall, and the roof one is just crap and needs replacing.

 

I bought a splitter that should split the single lighting ring (240V) into 3

 

I then have planned this diagram;

 

 

So, my question is- Can I spur off that extra ground cable, or can I nick the one from the light switch? I read you only need an Earth wire to sockets/switches if they are going to be metal (which these aren't) but it can incur a penalty if you sell the property without a Earth to each switch box.

 

Is any of this feasible?

 

Also, the two LED lights are exterior, but are switched; one with a standard switch and one with a fused switch.

 

All our electrics run back to an RCD panel that was installed and serviced around 2017

[Ex-MGSTech]

The only risk you have is invalidating your house insurance!

 

Do domestic electrical works require a work completion certificate...

[mavhc]

Firstly it's not a ring.

 

Secondly use a decent drawing program, eg Inkscape

 

Thirdly can you post a before and after about what you're attempting?

[Warwick_Tech]

The only risk you have is invalidating your house insurance!

 

Do domestic electrical works require a work completion certificate...

 

Good question - from what I've seen, no - unless you want to sell up; the whole thing is a bit confusing tbh but even B&Q have a how to on adding a light fixture!

 

Firstly it's not a ring.

 

Secondly use a decent drawing program, eg Inkscape

 

Thirdly can you post a before and after about what you're attempting?

 

Here's the before, pretty bog standard

 

 

I've bought 2.5mm wire for all the connectors - that's standard for a double socket inside the house, and tbh there are extention cords that draw far more power around the house *cough*

[Andrew_C]

Certain works (ie in a garage, outside) almost certainly fall into the Part P racket.

 

That said, it looks like you are heading the right way, but DO run, and connect earth to all locations. You don't know when you might change the fitting to a metal one, all the earths can be commoned where you write "Mains". 2.5 is overkill for lighting, and sort your extensions out!

[mavhc]

Just add the 4th ground cable from the middle light in the diagram to the distribution box, get a 4 way splitter

[Warwick_Tech]

Certain works (ie in a garage, outside) almost certainly fall into the Part P racket.

 

2.5 is overkill for lighting, and sort your extensions out!

 

I thought so - If we all had to let the government know when we changed a light switch to an Alexa smart switch they would be overwhelmed....

 

Larger is safer than smaller though, smaller can cause heat buildup and burns, larger will just be..... slower.....

 

And yes, I don't daisy-chain, but running a whole gaming setup in a 1930's house is difficult enough as is.....

[mavhc]

I have about 2 sockets per room in a 1978 house, every socket has an extension cable on, it's not actually a problem as long as you don't plug 6 kettles into one extension

[Andrew_C]

I have about 2 sockets per room in a 1978 house, every socket has an extension cable on, it's not actually a problem as long as you don't plug 6 kettles into one extension

 

Six kettles would be fine, the fuse would let go fairly soon. Three 2kW kettles on an extension... That's where problems arise.

[mavhc]

It's ok, I can add

[Warwick_Tech]

 

Everything in life has a Simpsons Quote for it....

[dmj]

I've bought 2.5mm wire for all the connectors - that's standard for a double socket inside the house

 

Problem is that it's not standard for lighting circuits.

So it's a bit of a waste of money, plus you've now got to deal with lighting fittings that are designed for 1.5mm, harder cable routing and the potential to cause confusion for future homeowners/electricians who will expect it to be capable of 20Amps. Are you expecting > 5amps on this lighting circuit? Are you installing a breaker to match the cable rating or the lighting rating?

[Chris_Cook]

I'm not a qualified spark, but can I suggest looking at some reputable youtube channels:

 

https://www.youtube.com/@GSHElectrical

https://www.youtube.com/@efixx

https://www.youtube.com/@NBundyElectrical

 

They have videos on how to and not to do this as well as the testing required.

 

Most domestic circuits are rings (return to the fuse board), or radials (daisy chained). You shouldn't have more than one thing split off of ether at any one point really. Largely as it can make fault finding difficult and you can overload things if someone adds extras in the future.

 

Typically you take your Live Neutral and earth to the light fitting, and then a twin and cpc cable back to the switch. The neutral cable then needs to be marked as live with brown tape or sleeve.

 

Alternately you take the live neutral and earth to the switch and then run all three to the fitting, with the switch interrupting the live wire. If you have a 3 way switch then link the live from the first switch to the second and then the third. Your neutrals and earths can then be split at this point using wagos or similar.

 

Its worth documenting this and leaving something behind next to the fuse board.

 

Whilst you don't have to provide an earth if your fixtures are double insulated, if you are running new cable its strongly recommended. Otherwise if you change to an earthed fitting all the cable needs stripping out. The earths should be linked through at each point. If you have metal back boxes, then these should be earthed as the screw heads could potentially become live if there is a loose wire. If this is is all new cable, then it doesn't make sense to skip on the earths. Its cheaper now, but will need to be re-done at a later date.

 

I'd recommend using proper Wago or Ideal leaver connectors rather than the cheap stuff on amazon. Its been through proper testing, where as some of this other stuff may not have been. Don't bother with screw terminals any more. All these types of connector need to be in an approved junction box, not just taped up.

 

Cables run over head need to be fixed with non-combustible metal fixings, not the old plastic clips.

 

Its really worth reading up on "proving dead" and why you need proper testers before you test this with a multi-meter (or not even that). Also remember that electricity and falls from height are the 2 biggest killers in industry.

[southhamster]

You might want to get the 18th edition onsite guide. A wealth of info clearly laid out.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Site-Guide-7671-Electrical-Regulations/dp/1839532270/ref=asc_df_1839532270/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=570519535670&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14806014928429470239&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045203&hvtargid=pla-1606064598694&psc=1

[Warwick_Tech]

Mission Complete!

 

 

 

[howartp]

Mission Complete!

Ooh, where'd you get those coloured wago's from?

[Warwick_Tech]

Ooh, where'd you get those coloured wago's from?

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09YMBR3HD/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&tag=amzn-lnkeg-21&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B09YMBR3HD&linkCode=as2

[mavhc]

Now label everything