AB_IT Posted February 14, 2023 Posted February 14, 2023 Hey All, We are just running Unifi 48 Port Pro switches which have been great thus far although we have an issue with one device. It's plugged into port 3 on the wall that goes back to a patch panel and then from the patch panel into a switch. But there is no activity lights on almost as if it's not plugged in before. It's a weird box that controls our care homes call bell system. Thing is connecting a computer through the same port 3 works perfectly fine and I've tested it all with a cable tester on both ends and all lights show up fine on the tester 1-8. If I connect my laptop directly to the call bell system it gives me an uplink light and works fine. I've looked through the settings and can't see anything wrong it has the correct IP etc... but as soon as you connect it into a switch, absolutley nothing happens. I've tried setting the switch port at different speeds and turning Spanning Tree off but still nothing. I've also tried doing it through port 4 which is currently working connected up to a CCTV camera but still no uplink lights or activity. Any ideas?! I'm so confused!
XiJ Posted February 14, 2023 Posted February 14, 2023 Is it not registering a connection to the switch at all? (Unifi not blocking it / turning off the port?) Daft thing: it’s a fully wired (4 pairs) Ethernet cable?
DavR Posted February 14, 2023 Posted February 14, 2023 When it's wired up to the switch, can you ping the call bell system? I'd assume not given no lights, but you never know. If the call bell box is portable, can you take it to the switch and hang it straight out of port 3 on the switch, thereby bypassing the wall cabling and patches? If the call bell box is not portable, do you have a switch or mini switch you can connect it to, just to see if you get port lights on that? Just trying to narrow down whether its the call bell box, cabling, or the switch that's misbehaving.
AB_IT Posted February 15, 2023 Author Posted February 15, 2023 Is it not registering a connection to the switch at all? (Unifi not blocking it / turning off the port?) Daft thing: it’s a fully wired (4 pairs) Ethernet cable? Nope literally acts like there's no connection. But plug any other device in via the same patch panel, cable etc... Works fine. Yeah it's a Cat6 cable and all 4 pairs present. The ethernet tester lights up all 8 lights too.
AB_IT Posted February 15, 2023 Author Posted February 15, 2023 When it's wired up to the switch, can you ping the call bell system? I'd assume not given no lights, but you never know. If the call bell box is portable, can you take it to the switch and hang it straight out of port 3 on the switch, thereby bypassing the wall cabling and patches? If the call bell box is not portable, do you have a switch or mini switch you can connect it to, just to see if you get port lights on that? Just trying to narrow down whether its the call bell box, cabling, or the switch that's misbehaving. That was our next course of action. It's not portable but I'm going to get a really long cable and just plug it in directly and see if that makes a difference. Mini switch is another idea to see if that works too I guess, I'm not sure I have any though but I'll have a rummage. So very strange! Unifi Console just shows the port as inactive too. I thought maybe the port is being blocked but nope.
Steve21 Posted February 15, 2023 Posted February 15, 2023 Have you tried a crossover cable? Just wondering if it’s an old system that might not support auto mdi/mdx uplink? (E.g. it requires a manual pair 2/3 swap) Whereas when plugging your laptop in if it’s newer it might automatically switch it on its side to match as most new cards do Steve
PotNoodleTech Posted February 15, 2023 Posted February 15, 2023 Is it posible that even though the network drop has all 8 cables working - the cable from the drop wired into the doorbell has like only 4 wires actually screwed down into the terminals inside? I've seen that type of thing before.
Roberto Posted February 15, 2023 Posted February 15, 2023 Is it posible that even though the network drop has all 8 cables working - the cable from the drop wired into the doorbell has like only 4 wires actually screwed down into the terminals inside? I've seen that type of thing before. It really does feel like a physical layer issue with the device itself to me, not a switch issue, so this wouldn't surprise me at all. I can well imagine a doorbell installer only installing the wires they need - it may be that's all they have the terminals for, depending on the device! I'd be looking at using the dumbest least "intelligent" switch I could find to test with and see if it magically kicks in to life when connected to that. If so, then I guess it might have to stay that way. IIRC I think I did something similar for a gate control at my old college.
Heebeejeebee Posted February 15, 2023 Posted February 15, 2023 It's a weird box that controls our care homes call bell system. Intercall by any chance? Had a similar issue with one of those and a reboot sorted it.
AB_IT Posted February 17, 2023 Author Posted February 17, 2023 Have you tried a crossover cable? Just wondering if it’s an old system that might not support auto mdi/mdx uplink? (E.g. it requires a manual pair 2/3 swap) Whereas when plugging your laptop in if it’s newer it might automatically switch it on its side to match as most new cards do Steve Did think about a crossover cable, I could try it though I've never actually had to create one. I know the standard pattern, do I just wire the cable up as shown in this diagram on the right? The chap did say apparently if it's an older computer and you connect from your computer directly to it you'll need a crossover cable but if it's a modern computer you don't?
AB_IT Posted February 17, 2023 Author Posted February 17, 2023 Intercall by any chance? Had a similar issue with one of those and a reboot sorted it. I also asked him how to restart it but he told me it couldn't be restarted... Said it was on a backup battery and it was all cabled in. I just wanted to pull the power and turn it back on but he tell me how. @Heebeejeebee It's an Intercall 700 system. Do you know of a way to do this? I had a look in the admin menu's and couldn't see anything. I have the administrator password.
AB_IT Posted February 17, 2023 Author Posted February 17, 2023 I've also just discovered that in the manual it says the port is 10Base-T. My new Unifi Switches don't apparently work at 10Base-T so I've ordered a cheap TP Link switch to put in between that can do 10Mbps and see if this solves it. I'm surprised though, it's the first device I've seen that has a port limited to 10Base-T.
Heebeejeebee Posted February 17, 2023 Posted February 17, 2023 I also asked him how to restart it but he told me it couldn't be restarted... Said it was on a backup battery and it was all cabled in. I just wanted to pull the power and turn it back on but he tell me how. @Heebeejeebee It's an Intercall 700 system. Do you know of a way to do this? I had a look in the admin menu's and couldn't see anything. I have the administrator password. The reboot is usually in Setup/Command once logged in as the admin. Make sure all doors that have sensors on are closed or you'll get an emergency alarm for each. Sometimes 2 reboots are required. There are also some buttons on the PCB to access the menu and I recall that the system can be rebooted from there as well. I remember that if you remove the battery and reboot, it goes back to defaults. I wouldn't recommend it without a tested backup. The ones we use are also on switches that aren't 10Base-T but work fine. 1
AB_IT Posted February 17, 2023 Author Posted February 17, 2023 The reboot is usually in Setup/Command once logged in as the admin. Make sure all doors that have sensors on are closed or you'll get an emergency alarm for each. Sometimes 2 reboots are required. There are also some buttons on the PCB to access the menu and I recall that the system can be rebooted from there as well. I remember that if you remove the battery and reboot, it goes back to defaults. I wouldn't recommend it without a tested backup. The ones we use are also on switches that aren't 10Base-T but work fine. Thank you mate, it's most appreciated. I found another forum with someone else having problems with their Unifi switch and a 10Base-T connection. Everyone was basically saying it's not compatible. What switches where you using out of interest?
Heebeejeebee Posted February 17, 2023 Posted February 17, 2023 Thank you mate, it's most appreciated. I found another forum with someone else having problems with their Unifi switch and a 10Base-T connection. Everyone was basically saying it's not compatible. What switches where you using out of interest? Mostly Aruba 2530 PoE in the homes.
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