Sunnyknight Posted January 16, 2015 Posted January 16, 2015 Huh.. So the pump connects directly into the reservoir.. Odd, but, fair enough. I did try to look it up myself, but YouTube and Google seemed insistant that I meant 'cool' instead of 'Ocool'. Cheers. Edit: Hm. Actually. The plexiglass back can be taken off, revealing the tubes inside. Would the middle tube, then, be a good place to put the kill coil? as there's no way it's ever going to shift if it's in there. So you have [O-O -- X-X] with the Os being the pump slots, and X's being the tubing. I would use the first X tube as the INTAKE TO the pump and add the killcoil in there. The second X (on the right) i would use as the outlet pumping to the rest of the system. Personally, i'd add more than one killcoil (prob 2) if using plain water or distilled, but that's your call.
Garacesh Posted January 16, 2015 Posted January 16, 2015 Hm. You're the first person I've come across to recommend two, but they're not exactly expensive so it can't hurt. Not using the actual tubes I'm going to use just yet whilst I fiddle with it and get to grips with it all.. Setting it up like this is okay, right? Advice I seem to be finding online is have the res as high as you can and have the tubes going down. What say you?
Sunnyknight Posted January 17, 2015 Posted January 17, 2015 (edited) Hm. You're the first person I've come across to recommend two, but they're not exactly expensive so it can't hurt. Not using the actual tubes I'm going to use just yet whilst I fiddle with it and get to grips with it all.. Setting it up like this is okay, right? Advice I seem to be finding online is have the res as high as you can and have the tubes going down. What say you? Really? Lol... that's just weird. How do they expect to make a full circle wc loop without 1 intake and 1 outake.... 😓 Yes to res being as high as possible. Improves the speed of the liquid around the system. Also... it helps when topping up at the start as all components recieve the liquid faster. Edited January 17, 2015 by Sunnyknight
Garacesh Posted January 17, 2015 Posted January 17, 2015 Nononono, I mean you're the first person I've found to recommend two kill coils lol Edit: Wait. You didn't. It was late and I read it wrong. Deeerrrrp. As for which one I use as my in/out.. Don't I kind of.. not get a choice on that? It's whichever the pump uses?
LincolnE Posted January 19, 2015 Posted January 19, 2015 I've got the same res here. You're also right, there's only one way for the water to flow. For what it's worth, I've just dropped my kill coil into the res itself from the fill port. If you look, the in/out ports inside the res itself is designed to prevent stuff being introduced into the system (Well, it's designed to stop air getting into the loop, but it also prevents anything else as well). I'd say I've only got the one kill coil in this without issue, but as you say it's cheap enough that it doesn't make much difference either way.
abillybob Posted January 19, 2015 Posted January 19, 2015 Played my first true 4K game yesterday which before you ask yes did include 4k textures. The Talos Principle, fairly obsessed with it at the moment. My computer has everything set at Ultra and runs the game at around 25-30FPS on average I have a GTX 770. It's playable and because it's only a puzzle game I don't care too much about having the 6fps master race so that's how I've been playing it! Amazing game and 4K really does make a difference it's stunning.
X-13 Posted January 19, 2015 Posted January 19, 2015 6fps master race Oh, hey! I'm part of that when I play Unity maxed out. 1
Garacesh Posted January 19, 2015 Posted January 19, 2015 I've got the same res here. You're also right, there's only one way for the water to flow. For what it's worth, I've just dropped my kill coil into the res itself from the fill port. If you look, the in/out ports inside the res itself is designed to prevent stuff being introduced into the system (Well, it's designed to stop air getting into the loop, but it also prevents anything else as well). I'd say I've only got the one kill coil in this without issue, but as you say it's cheap enough that it doesn't make much difference either way. Hm? I figured, given the shape of it, it was supposed to go into one of your tubes, so that you could ensure all the water going through your heat sinks/radiator/etc had gone through it.
sonofsanta Posted January 19, 2015 Posted January 19, 2015 TIL: I'm going air cooling for my next build...
Garacesh Posted January 19, 2015 Posted January 19, 2015 (edited) TIL: I'm going air cooling for my next build... Me too >.> lol. In all fairness once I have the cooler built (Looking at building it at the weekend, still waiting for the GPU and the kill coils to arrive.. Oh, also the shoggy sandwich, but it turns out that I can't actually use that with this res/pump combo.) then I won't actually have to replace much if I change parts, just new CPU/GPU blocks, drain the loop, rebuild, refill, back to work. Edited January 19, 2015 by Garacesh
LincolnE Posted January 19, 2015 Posted January 19, 2015 Hm? I figured, given the shape of it, it was supposed to go into one of your tubes, so that you could ensure all the water going through your heat sinks/radiator/etc had gone through it. It doesn't matter where it goes, all it does is prevent bacteria growth within the loop, so it'll be perfectly happy in the res. Generally put it in there once and forget. While you can replace it every time you refill, it'll be quite content and still do it's job for a long time down the line. For some reservoirs, it's difficult to get it in and out, but you'll have no issues with the alphacool one you've got.
Arthur Posted January 25, 2015 Posted January 25, 2015 (edited) In order.... Case - open all panels Cpu placed on mobo outside case Install mobo Install psu Connect cables to mobo Install gpu Install ram Install extra fans Install watercooler Connect up remaining cables and tidy up. This is my order. Open motherboard out of the box and place it on the box using it as a anti-static workbench Place CPU in socket and push down on the retention arm, the plastic cover should then pop off the socket as you push down on the retention arm Place CPU heatsink over the top making sure it's fitted securely Install all RAM and be sure to check the manual for the correct slots to put RAM into Install the brass legs that hold the motherboard away from the case inside the case Push in the IO Shield Install the SSD or hard drive into the case Install the PSU into the case and route the cables through the back of the case cable management holes Install motherboard into the case ensuring the IO Shield is correctly lined up with the motherboard Use the middle screw hold to hold the case in place (only light screwing is necessary) Screw in all the screws for the motherboard and once done ensure to take the middle screw out (this doesn't matter but it gives you an extra screw to use later) Start your cable management here make sure the wires can reach and make you cable management tidy BEFORE you plug in the cables to the motherboard or any other component Start your PC up et voilà. @mac_shinobi. Just a few things to add to what's mentioned above before you start building your PC later today... Update your UEFI BIOS when you switch your PC on for the first time. Firstly so that your i7-4790K is properly supported and secondly because updating the BIOS wipes out any settings you had previously modified. » SABERTOOTH-Z97-MARK-1-ASUS-2101.zip Download the latest BIOS linked above, double-click the .zip file and extract the .cap file within to the root of a FAT32 formatted USB flash drive. Then follow the instructions on page 3-62 of the motherboard manual. Change the following UEFI settings (you will probably need to switch to "Advanced Mode" to see them)... Intel Virtualization Technology: Change from [Disabled] to [Enabled] so that you can install Hyper-V later on Secure Boot. Change [Other OS] to [Windows UEFI Mode] to enable Secure Boot for Windows 8.1. Use the included Q-Connector adapter to quickly connect all of your front panel case cables. Connect the SSD you are going to install Windows on to the (Intel) SATA port labelled SATA6G_1. Download Rufus. Use this to create a bootable USB flash drive from a Windows ISO. From the first drop-down box choose your USB flash drive. Next, click the button highlighted in red below (labelled Click to select an image...) to load your Windows ISO Choose GPT partition scheme for UEFI computer from the second drop-down box. Click the Start button in Rufus to create the bootable flash drive. This part make take quite a long time if you have a slow USB 2.0 drive. [*]Use the Intel Ethernet port on the rear of your motherboard instead of the Realtek. http://rog.asus.com/312772014/labels/guides/tried-and-tested-why-intel-ethernet-is-still-better-for-gaming [*]After Windows has been installed check Device Manager for missing drivers, but DON'T install them from the included DVD. Get the latest drivers from the relevant manufacturers website or Asus'. [*]Download and install Unchecky. This will help prevent you from inadvertently installing additional unwanted software that often comes bundled with many free Windows programs these days (like ImgBurn). [*]On Windows, MPC-HC is a better media player than VLC if you care about image quality. Edited January 25, 2015 by Arthur 1
mac_shinobi Posted January 25, 2015 Posted January 25, 2015 (edited) Anyone got any SATA 3 ( 6gbps ) cables they don't require that I could have Only got four ( one for ssd where os and apps will go which will be the 500gb 850 evo ) I still have 3 hard drives ( one 2tb seagate, two 3tb wd red drives ) Two sata optical drives I've got a 240gb v300 kingston ssd If 850 evo 500gb is on SATA_G1 where would be the best sata connectors to use for the other devices Also presume I can use the 2 sata ports near the end of the asmedia as sata ports instead of using it for sata express ? Thanks Use SATA 2 ( 3.0 gbps ) cables for the optical drives and use SATA 3 ( 6gbps ) cables for the main ssd and the three normal hard drives until I can get a few sata 3 ( 6gbps ) cables Edited January 25, 2015 by mac_shinobi
Arthur Posted January 25, 2015 Posted January 25, 2015 (edited) Use SATA II (3.0 Gbps) cables for the optical drives and use SATA 6 Gbps cables for the main SSD and the three normal hard drives until I can get a few SATA 6 Gbps cables All SATA cables are identical in terms of the speeds supported. You don't need special SATA 6Gb/s cables. Since you only have four SATA cables at the moment I would connect up the 850 EVO, 2TB SSHD and 2 x 3TB WD HDDs assuming you don't need an optical drive straight away? Intel SATA Controller (6 Ports) SATA6G_1 - 500GB Samsung 850 EVO SATA6G_2 - 2TB Seagate SSHD SATA6G_3 - 3TB WD Red HDD SATA6G_4 - 3TB WD Red HDD SATA6G_5 - Pioneer BDR-209EBK Blu-ray Writer SATA6G_6 - Spare ASMedia SATA Controller (2 Ports) - Only supports HDDs according to page 1-30 of the manual SATA6G_E1 - 240GB Kingston V300 SSD SATA6G_E2 - Spare Colours = Brown, Black, Beige Two SATA optical drives Do you actually need two optical drives? Just use the Pioneer Blu-ray drive when it arrives. Edited January 25, 2015 by Arthur 1
edutech4schools Posted January 26, 2015 Author Posted January 26, 2015 Well I did eventually get a Gaming PC (Also kept the PS4) I changed out a few parts but eventually ordered this. Fractal Design Define R4 Silent Black Pearl Case Intel Core i5 4690K 3.5GHz Socket 1150 6MB L3 Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming 4GB GDDR5 Dual DVI HDMI DisplayPort PCI-E Graphics Card Asus Z97-PRO GAMER Socket 1150 VGA DVI HDMI 8-Channel HD Audio ATX Motherboard Crucial 8GB DDR3 1866Mhz Ballistix Tactical Memory Samsung 850 EVO 250GB 2.5inch SSD Corsair CSM 650W Semi Modular 80+ Gold Power Supply It did come out slightly more than my original budget lol. When I first turned it all on the ASUS Gamer pro motherboard automatically overclocked the processor from 3.5ghz to 4.6ghz without me doing diddly, which is good as I would have probably killed something. Also must say that the free game ' The Last of Us Remastered' I got with the PS4 is one of the best games I have played in years. Thanks for all your help 1
Garacesh Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 I changed out a few parts but eventually ordered this. -snip- Similar build to mine. My new rig runs an i5 and a 970 too It did come out slightly more than my original budget lol. Always does. When I first turned it all on the ASUS Gamer pro motherboard automatically overclocked the processor from 3.5ghz to 4.6ghz without me doing diddly, which is good as I would have probably killed something. That's a common feature of Z97 boards, my MSI board does the same and I built a PC with the Pentium K Anniversary for a friend using a Z97 board for the same reason.
sonofsanta Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 That's a nice looking build, well rounded, good components, and right in the sweet spot of getting the most for your money you could've spent more, but I doubt you'd have noticed the difference from what you've got. Good work, soldier o7 In related happy news, I should actually have some savings by the end of the year to build myself something shiny once Skylake is out... :D:D (Can't believe we're on page 37 of a PC-build thread. New record?)
mac_shinobi Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 Got mine built , took me all of yesterday ( so not the fasted by any stretch of the imagination ). My cable management skills are rubbish at best and the pump is butted up against the first memory module which has pushed it a few mm closer to the next memory module , not sure if its possible to remove and re install the Kelvin S36 so that the tubing that goes in and out of the radiator is near the back of the computer case instead of like it is at the minute where these pipes are near where the optical drive bays are Other then that working great, getting between 24-30 when running windows, not sure what cpu temps are like when im playing games etc. Will get photos etc later on
Arthur Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 (edited) not sure if it's possible to remove and reinstall the Kelvin S36 so that the tubing that goes in and out of the radiator is near the back of the computer case instead of like it is at the minute where these pipes are near where the optical drive bays are Does yours look like this? Edited January 26, 2015 by Arthur
mac_shinobi Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 Does yours look like this? @Arthur - see attached but effectively yes so the pipes connect to the rad at the end where the optical drive bays are and I have a 140mm fan above where the GPU is
LosOjos Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 (edited) @Arthur - see attached but effectively yes so the pipes connect to the rad at the end where the optical drive bays are and I have a 140mm fan above where the GPU is Can't you rotate the CPU cooler 90/180 degrees? I wouldn't be happy with that much pressure on my RAM... Edited January 26, 2015 by LosOjos 80 degrees would have been very difficult :doh: 1
Garacesh Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 Ooerr, I'm with @LosOjos on this one. I would not be okay with that. I'd either move the rad, or rotate the cpu block. 1
mac_shinobi Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 (edited) Ooerr, I'm with @LosOjos on this one. I would not be okay with that. I'd either move the rad, or rotate the cpu block. Presume I am ok to rotate the rad around so the pipes are near the back of the case, clean off the pump block and cpu and re apply thermal paste and then re install the cpu pump block ( heatsink onto the cpu ) so that it isn't applying that much pressure onto the first memory module ? Am going to have to remove the 140mm corsair fan in order to do that, Edited January 26, 2015 by mac_shinobi
Garacesh Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 Depends. Is the CPU block applying any pressure, or is it just the tubing? If it's just the tubing, you could just move the radiator and leave the CPU block where it is - that way you don't have to faff about re-gooping your CPU. Your tubing looks to be sufficiently long enough to accommodate putting the radiator anywhere in the case.
mac_shinobi Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 Depends. Is the CPU block applying any pressure, or is it just the tubing? If it's just the tubing, you could just move the radiator and leave the CPU block where it is - that way you don't have to faff about re-gooping your CPU. Your tubing looks to be sufficiently long enough to accommodate putting the radiator anywhere in the case. I've no idea, looking at it, seems to just be the tubing between the pump and the memory module although was a bit of a pain trying to get the pump mounted onto the back plate Presume I would need to get a 120mm fan instead of using the included 140mm fan as no doubt If I do flip the rad around 180 degrees so the tubing was at the rear of the case then the 140mm fan would get in the way of the tubes going in and out of the rad ? Presume I could still mount the cpu pump / heatsink onto the cpu the other way around as well
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