Camera Advice

[teejay]

I'm getting back into photography as a hobby after a break of a few years, my current camera is a Canon EOS 450D with EF-S 18-55mm IS and EFS 55-250mm IS lenses. My main interest is photographing our dog and his buddies, also a bit of landscape photography. I think I'm beginning to hit the limits of what the camera and lenses can do, I'm ok on a bright, sunny days but on overcast days or if we are in woods then I'm struggling especially with action shots as it drops down to too low a shutter speed to catch the action properly. I'm getting good results when they are stood still, which is a rarity, but not when moving. I've got a monopod, which helps a bit but still not enough, i'm actually wondering if the image stabilisation/autofocus isn't working correctly. I'm also not overly happy with the colour output, especially in the green range which looks a bit insipid.

So, I'm wondering if I would see an improvement by just replacing the lenses with something better, if so any recommendations, or should I fleabay the lot and start again, if so what would you recommend? I'm happy to move up the range a bit, but can't afford the pro/semi pro kit.

[SYNACK]

Shooting in raw? Colour is correctable and lenses are unlikely to help unless you have obscenely bad ones. Have you tried the rapid fire auto settings for motion?

[teejay]

Yes I've tried the continuos shoot mode, yes it's ok in bright sunlight, just. On an overcast day or in lower light levels it's pretty useless, even if you are tracking and using a monopod. I used to photograph motorsports with this camera and it used to be ok, that's why I'm wondering if it's a problem with the camera/lenses.

I do mainly shoot in raw and yes with a lot of fiddling I can get the colour just about sorted, it just seems a particular problem with the green range, if I shoot a shot with not much green in it I get much richer colours straight off, if there is a lot of green then the pictures look washed out and dull and take a lot more processing to get even vaguely right.

[pcstru]

So, I'm wondering if I would see an improvement by just replacing the lenses with something better, if so any recommendations, or should I fleabay the lot and start again, if so what would you recommend? I'm happy to move up the range a bit, but can't afford the pro/semi pro kit.

 

What flash are you using on these overcast days/in the woods?

[teejay]

Generally I'm not using a flash as they are too far away for it to be of any benefit, if they are close then I just have then built in flash, but the closer range ones they don't tend to be running around. I'm probably expecting too much from the lenses, that's why I was asking if there are any better lenses for that camera.

[pcstru]

How far away are they?

[dhicks]

So, I'm wondering if I would see an improvement by just replacing the lenses with something better

 

From my very rough knowledge of photography (gleaned mainly by being the one who keeps the school DSLR, because I remember to charge the batteries) you might do better with a prime lens - one with a fixed focal length. For choosing that focal length, you might well like to try a "normal" prime lens - one with a focal length that, when used with your camera, matches the field-of-view of the human eye. I'm not sure exactly how much such a lens costs for the Canon 450D - maybe £50-ish?

 

Alternativly, you could buy a completly different type of camera. The Lytro "light field" camera allows you to refocus a photo in post-processing:

 

https://www.lytro.com/camera

 

There is also the GoPro - a wider angle lens, and does seem to be designed to take pictures of sports and other fast-moving images. You could also consider the Raspberry Pi with the new camera module - simply write your own code to capture and process the image however you wish.

[CESIL]

The problem I have always found is that my eyes are much better in low light than any camera and lens I have owned (or could afford to own anyway) so I am usually disappointed with the shots I get.

 

Capturing fast moving subjects in low light is possible if you have deep enough pockets...just look at the lenses used by photographers at big sporting events!

 

Basically you need the largest aperture you can afford (smallest number) and a body with the fastest ISO value you can afford.

 

Other than that you need to practice panning with the subject...back when I shot with film I could track fairly fast subjects and get them in focus about 50% of the time. This still relies on the aperture and film speed (ISO) being enough for the light conditions though.

[jinnantonnixx]

Get a couple of manual flashguns, a couple of stands and some radio transmitters.

 

For radio remotes, I use these:

YONGNUO, photographic equipment, camera accessories, flash light, camera remote control, speedlite, photo equipment, LED photo light, flash trigger, camera wireless remote control, TTL cord

As a plus, they come with a cable to remote-release your Canon.

 

For flashguns, I bought three of these for peanuts from my local camera dealer. (Sunpak 555 or 4500DX)

http://www.adorama.com/Reviews/pwr/product-reviews/Flash-Lighting/On-Camera-and-Slave-Flashes/Handle-Mount-Flashes/Sunpak/p/SU555-Sunpak-555-Auto-Handle-Mount-TTL-Flash-Guide-Number-150-ISO-100-ft-Requires-module-amp-EXT11-Cord-for-Dedication.html

They are outrageously powerful, and lots of manual control. Believe it or not I get more consistent flash results from the Sunpak in its auto mode (with camera in manual mode) rather than my dedicated TTL Canon flash.

 

Then looks at these Strobist sites for inspiration.

Strobist photography: tutorials - Stormfront

Strobist: On Assignment

Flickr: The Strobist.com Pool

 

Strobist photography is a whole new world, and it's not too expensive to get into. It's also very liberating putting your camera into fully manual mode and thinking things through.

Edited May 28, 2013 by jinnantonnixx

[teejay]

These give an idea of distance:

 

 

 

These are when they stand still:p

 

 

 

And these are why you don't get too close:rolleyes:

 

 

 

I would show some examples of when it all goes wrong, but I've deleted them, if it's dry in the next couple of days I'll try and get some examples. @CESIL I used to shoot motorsport pictures, so I'm ok with panning and also use monopod, just can't get any decent results, that's why I'm looking at possibly upgrading kit.

[plexer]

What's the f number of those lenses?

 

Ben

[teejay]

What's the f number of those lenses?

 

Ben

 

4-5.6 on the 55-250mm

3.5 - 5.6 on the 18-55mm

[teejay]

Get a couple of manual flashguns, a couple of stands and some radio transmitters.

 

I'm not sure I fancy that with about 10-15 Labradors running around, they wouldn't last very long

[jinnantonnixx]

I'm not sure I fancy that with about 10-15 Labradors running around, they wouldn't last very long

 

Bungee them to a tree! The flashguns, that is, not the dogs.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/flyingchorse/2642886197/

Edited May 28, 2013 by jinnantonnixx

[teejay]

Bungee them to a tree! The flashguns, that is, not the dogs.

 

Strobist Dog II | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

 

Fantastic photo :-)

I don't know, bungeeing the labs to a tree might be a good idea!

[jinnantonnixx]

Get a load of this:

 

 

I love the strobist look. Just by shortening the exposure, you can radically change the sky and background, but the flash gives consistent illumination and is not affected by the camera shutter speed (flash illuminates for 1/10,0000 vs camera's 1/250 or thereabouts).

Edited May 28, 2013 by jinnantonnixx

[pcstru]

4-5.6 on the 55-250mm

3.5 - 5.6 on the 18-55mm

 

They are not fast, but while better lenses will give you a few more stops - they will not move the sun in front of the subject. A good flash will zoom with the lens and give you 50-100ft *fill in*. That should lift the subject from the background - at least enough to make the photo-shop dodge and burn a bit easier (but with the right treatment you really won't need it). It also widens your choice of aperture if you know your *subject* will be three stops better lit than even the spot TTL metering says.

 

You can of course go out and spend a fortune on a better body (you know you want to), and sharper, faster lenses (you know you want to), but at this point if you are just using your on board flash, go out and spend the money on a decent Speedlight. You can do the rest later anyway and you will not regret having a decent flash, ever!

[teejay]

Thanks @pcstru, that looks a good option, would the 320EX be ok for this or should I go up to the 430EX II? Either way, that's a lot cheaper option than the USM lenses I've been looking at

[tom_newton]

Faster lenses all well and good, but you trade light for a wafer thin depth of field. Need to get a new flash myself and then the hard bit ; learn how to use it!

[Soulfish]

Also need to get myself a flash. Already have a 50mm 1.4 and a 17-55 2.8 lens, and totally agree with Tom about the razor thin depth of field when using the 50mm at 1.4 . We've just got a full lighting setup here in school and it's been good fun playing with proper studio lighting setups - so very tempted to get my own (much smaller) set.

 

Very tempted to get myself 1 or 2 YN568EX and the YN622 triggers - the Yongnuo triggers/flash guns are sooo cheap compared to Canon and get some good reviews over on talkphotography

[pcstru]

Thanks @pcstru, that looks a good option, would the 320EX be ok for this or should I go up to the 430EX II? Either way, that's a lot cheaper option than the USM lenses I've been looking at

 

I'd go for the 430 or even spend a bit more and get the 600. There are some powerful compatibles around quite cheap which seem to draw good comments - personally I'd stick with the speedlite but it depends on your attitude to risk (spending and finding out it doesn't live up to what you want). Or scour flea-bay...

 

I bought a 530 10 years ago to pack in with my old D60, it's suffered some abuse over the years but is still going strong, so IMO the kit is well built and reliable.

[Hacksawbob]

Hi it's a difficult subject you have chosen, and as you are finding getting the action caught is difficult. Low light photography and action just don't mix, at least with your setup. As jinnantonix says adding some off camera flash is the way to go and the manual adjustment of old manual flashes is much easier than messing with menus on the modern flashes. As for mounting the flash this is where you need to be creative. an old boot will hold a flash in position nicely! You could defininitley get set up for around £100. It might be worth thinking about an old manual focus lens with an adapter, there are a stack of cheap 50mm f1.8 for penny's. take a look on mflenses.com for more info. The trick then is to set a smaller aperture with predefined focus point and make the action come to you! Throw the ball or frisbee in the same spot and reward the dogs when they do it right! It can also be interesting to introduce some movement with the flash with a slower shutter and moving the camera, google for drag flash, and some gels to the flash for different colors, that sort of thing. You will have a low hit rate to begin with, so try experimenting on static subjects as well. Also try altering the balance of ambient light to flash by varying the aperture and leaving everything else the same, flash one side and sunlight the other can be quite dramatic! You won't be taking masterpieces straight off but stick with it it can be really rewarding.

Looking at you images, I would also suggest changing your angle, the better ones there are when you were on eye level and close up, The portrait is a lovely shot. Taking pictures from your standard standing position gets very few decent shots IMHO.

[plexer]

Always a good idea to get down on the same level as your subjects baby's means on the floor

 

Ben

[pcstru]

As jinnantonix says adding some off camera flash is the way to go and the manual adjustment of old manual flashes is much easier than messing with menus on the modern flashes.

 

That depends on the flash. A compatible Speedlite can be as simple as putting it in E-TTL mode and letting the flash sort out how much light it thinks it needs. You can even stick the camera on manual choose your aperture and a reasonable shutter speed and the flash will try and sort it out. In the long run you won't learn much doing that, but trying to take an incident meter reading off a dog playing in a park will IMO be a bit hit or miss.

[teejay]

Right, I think I'm going to go for the 430 EX II, had a look at those yongnuo ones and what puts me off a bit is that you cannot update the firmware so are unlikely to work with newer cameras. The canon flashes seem to hold good resale value so I can always upgrade later if necessary.

Yes I'm slowly learning about composition and getting down to their height, I've also got to train Mac as when I get down lower he instantly thinks its playtime and jumps all over me:p I only really started again back in February and with the rubbish weather haven't had that much chance to get out, but I'm definitely seeing a big improvement.

Thanks for all the advice, will hopefully get out at the weekend and test the flash if it turns up in time.