tcarrington

Hi, I'm wondering what the law/recommendations are on: A drawer full of laptops PSUs, never used, probably wont be used, certainly haven't moved since last PAT test last year Drawers full of IEC C5s, IEC C13s, IEC C7s etc that haven't moved since last PAT test. Obviously the PAT testers are biased as they get 50p per item and a drawer full is an easy buck. What benefit is the visual inspection of comms cupboard IEC cables? thanks

have just come across the same issue: rebuilding 2 x R50-B-12Ws side by side (PXE/WDS). Both have SSDs and have been previously built by me using the same system, though was probably a Win10-1803/9 image and now am using 1903. One built fine, booted to desktop, the other started PXE booting again on restart after the build. I did change both BIOSes at the start, added a supervisor password, changed them to UEFI mode. The SSDs are different models, but its the Kingston A400 that is not playing ball. Swapping the SSDs, the laptop that didn't boot from SSD now boots into desktop, whereas the laptop which did work then didn't. So the problem followed the SSD (Kingston A400). The SSD that worked is reported as R3SL120G in the BIOS Laptop that worked initially with that SSD is BIOS version 1.30 and EC 1.10. Secure boot disabled, UEFI Boot on. The laptop that failed...only difference was Secure Boot was enabled. Re-PXE-d the laptop with Secure Boot off. No change to the issue, on first boot it PXEd again. Ran DISKPART, cleaned disk (removed GPT *). Re-PXEd, same problem. Swapped the Kingston A400 for a Transcend 64GB drive, works first time. [h=1]¯\_(ツ)_/¯[/h]

INS at splash screen after a restart didn't work for me. Only after a shutdown, or a power off (battery and power lead out). INS after power reconnected worked every time.

I did an optical clean recently on a UF75 (colour wheel, external lenses etc, I didn't dismantle the main light chamber). It had a fairly new lamp in, but was on low brightness as there was a dim/bright/dim/bright type flicker at high brightness. After reassembly it started up and looked good brightness, but after maybe 2 minutes it started wildly flickering red/green/blue and then shut off. Obviously, colour wheel was suspected, but it wasn't an issue previously. I hadn't touched it physically so I doubt I had damaged it. I wondered if I had cause an issue by blowing dust into it, but it started up quickly and seemed to run fine. After lots of investigation I came across a newish YouTuber who suggested, post-cleaning, the InfraRed (IR) coming out of the lamp was flooding the colour wheel position sensor (little circuit board with sensor looking at black band on the colour wheel motor body) Indeed, the flickering only started after the lamp reached full brightness, and I think dismantling the projector cause a full reset of the brightness settings. Also, he suggested a lamp that didn't have a good IR filter glass might be contributing. My lamp only had a green/yellow tinge (a recent lamp I now have has a red tinge). So, all fitted with the data. To fix the issue, I glued a tiny "shroud" around the IR sensor made out of a 1.8mm cable tie. Worked perfectly after that! Hope that helps someone :-)