<?xml version="1.0"?>
<rss version="2.0"><channel><title/><link>https://www.edugeek.net/blogs/blog/394-bobs-blog/</link><description/><language>en</language><item><title>Review: Parotec InSync Apple Ipad charging and synchronising case.</title><link>https://www.edugeek.net/blogs/entry/764-review-parotec-insync-apple-ipad-charging-and-synchronising-case/</link><description><![CDATA[<p><a class="ipsAttachLink ipsAttachLink_image" href="https://www.edugeek.net/uploads/monthly_2012_11/20121004_133602.jpg.4abb4e6a86963822e279b1d5fca1cfc2.jpg" data-fileid="160" data-fileext="jpg" rel=""><img class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" alt="20121004_133602.jpg.4abb4e6a86963822e279b1d5fca1cfc2.jpg" data-fileid="160" data-src="https://www.edugeek.net/uploads/monthly_2012_11/20121004_133602.jpg.4abb4e6a86963822e279b1d5fca1cfc2.jpg" src="https://www.edugeek.net/applications/core/interface/js/spacer.png" /></a></p><p>
One of the schools I am working at ordered one of these about six months ago. It was bought through an Apple reseller along with a number of Ipads (15).  The cost of the device was  not cheap!  So lets see what you get for your money.  There are 16 slots for ipads and one larger slot for a laptop, 16 short charge/synch cables, an internal 240V socket for the laptop charger and an external 240V supply socket. </p><p> </p><p>
The external case appears to be made from extremely tough ABS type moulded plastic. There are numerous strengthening ridges around the outside and areas of potential damage like the corners have additional material to strengthen them further. Four sturdy clasps lock the lid onto the body and the area of contact between the two halves is made with a rubber seal which sits within a female channel on the lid. This interlocks with a small ridge on the lower rim that will provide additional rigidity  to the whole case when closed. There are three handles with metal pins and one retractible handle for 'tow along' use when using the integrated wheels. I would say that the case would certainly be shower proof if you were caught in the rain between buildings, and I suspect it would withstand more. Everything about the outside of the case is extremely well designed and manufactured.</p><p> </p><p>
On the inside of the lid there is a foam covering presumably to stop the Ipads moving around excessively if the case were to roll onto its top or fall downstairs. The hinge is made to the same design as the handles with metal pins running within the abs enclosures. The lid will only open just past ninety degrees, even with a sturdy hinge this could be a weakness should any pressure be put on the lid beyond its maximum travel. </p><p> </p><p>
The slots are made from a sheet of perspex like material with stacked layers of foam below . Initially we could not fit the ipads into the slots with the cases on (STM Skinny) so we had to return the unit via our supplier to have the larger facia installed. It took about a month to turn this around even though the company are only 5 miles away. With out cases the screens would constantly be in contact with the perspex surround and would probably not be good for them long term. </p><p> </p><p>
<a class="ipsAttachLink ipsAttachLink_image" href="https://www.edugeek.net/uploads/monthly_2012_11/20121004_133624.jpg.e0fd80b71d840c5f9828b095a97819cc.jpg" data-fileid="162" data-fileext="jpg" rel=""><img class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" alt="20121004_133624.jpg.e0fd80b71d840c5f9828b095a97819cc.jpg" data-fileid="162" data-src="https://www.edugeek.net/uploads/monthly_2012_11/20121004_133624.jpg.e0fd80b71d840c5f9828b095a97819cc.jpg" src="https://www.edugeek.net/applications/core/interface/js/spacer.png" /></a></p><p>
The case cannot be closed whilst connected to 240V or USB, as there is no cut away to allow for wires to pass through the case. I was told that in order to get "Apple Approval"   this is one of the stipulations to prevent heat build up apparently.  It's annoying that you cant charge the unit with the lid closed, it means you cant really leave the case unattended while it charges or keep it within a secure room. The electronics below the power area are vented by two small fan ducts when on 240V power. When plugged in the Ipad2s report "not charging" as they presumably are detecting insufficient power. This is well documented on the web for none apple chargers, the good news is that it actually is charging, but I suspect slower than if the device was plugged straight into a mains adaptor.  I noted approximately a 5% gain on one Ipad during an hour (all the other devices were at %100). I'll have to compare this to a mains charge some time. But It means that you will need to leave your case lid open for longer than you would expect.</p><p>
<a class="ipsAttachLink ipsAttachLink_image" href="https://www.edugeek.net/uploads/monthly_2012_11/20121004_133632.jpg.77fd7d514d1dbcaea6a7e7a664940a21.jpg" data-fileid="161" data-fileext="jpg" rel=""><img class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" alt="20121004_133632.jpg.77fd7d514d1dbcaea6a7e7a664940a21.jpg" data-fileid="161" data-src="https://www.edugeek.net/uploads/monthly_2012_11/20121004_133632.jpg.77fd7d514d1dbcaea6a7e7a664940a21.jpg" src="https://www.edugeek.net/applications/core/interface/js/spacer.png" /></a></p><p> </p><p>
The cables that plug in to the ipad are about 20CM long, this is just enough to remove the ipad from its slot whilst still plugged in, but it is very easy to dislodge so don't attempt it while syncing! These cables are the device's  Achilles heal, they are easily trapped in the closure system mentioned above. Cables near to the hinge side have been caught more than once leaving a dent in the cable. Easy enough to keep an eye one if you are aware, but hinge cover would definitely be an idea to improve this design. The charge cables are easily knocked out if moving ipads around so you need to keep checking they are seated correctly. Also it is difficult to spot which way around the cable should be I may mark one side of them so you can see at a glance which way to plug it in.</p><p> </p><p>
As for syncing the Insync behaves as though it were a powered USB Hub, which it basically is. When you plug the devices in they apear one after the other in Itunes on the IMac (I have not tried this on a Windows Machine it might not work like this, if at all). In Itunes you have all the functionality that you would with one device. you can update IOS, take and restore backup and synchronise applications. I choose not to sync photos, I am attempting to do that via dropbox to a windows server but that's another story! </p><p> </p><p>
So 10 out of 10 for ruggedness, but the internal design could be improved. Electrically you might be better off with an extension lead and splitters, although less tidy it would be a lot cheaper! I understand that OSX 10.7 Lion allows syncing over wifi. I haven't tried this yet, but it may be an option rather than plugging in the USB.</p>]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">764</guid><pubDate>Fri, 15 Mar 2013 14:10:22 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Clever Dual Touch  LCD screen</title><link>https://www.edugeek.net/blogs/entry/717-clever-dual-touch-lcd-screen/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>I have had several of these installed at the primaries where I work. As a projector replacement they work well on paper, no shadow cast, no bulb to replace, evenly lit accross the display, less wires makes for a tidier installation, toughened glass etc. There's quite a few reasons to replace those aging projectors or if you have a new build then the increased labour costs of projector installation may well off set the overall cost of one of these. </p><p> </p><p>
I'd say the weight of one of these might be the first thing to consider, I have one mounted to a plasterboard partition but there is a substancial piece of chipboard to reinforce it. I would guess these weigh in at around the 50KG mark so budget for reinforcement if mounting to a non structural wall.</p><p> </p><p>
 we had our supply and fit carried out by a local firm in Bolton (IDN)   As a standard part of the installation they have wired the screen back to a VGA and sound distribution box on the wall. As the PC is HDMI out capable (DELL optiplex 390) this was unnecessary, as the HDMI cable can go straight to the LCD screen and has the benefit of carrying the audio as well. This then leaves the local monitor to run from the VGA cable as a duplicate output. This seems to be a standard installation to allow for VGA only capable computers. .</p><p> </p><p>
 The driver installation was straight forward plug in the USB and HDMI and then a bit of messing with display resolutions to get the best combination. The best setup with the HDMI cable is running an Intel HD graphics 2000 driver version 8.15.10.2509 1280X1024 60Hz seems to be the resolution that is working best for me on both cloned monitors.</p><p> </p><p>
In use the screen is as you would expect it to be, reasonably quick to respond and accurate enough for most clicks and drags, certainly good enough for most teaching activities. There is a calibration software but you only really need to use it once as unlike a projector installation the board to projector isn't changing everytime someone closes a door!  We have the dual touch variety which in theory is great allowing you that ipadseque pinch and unpinch for zooming. In reality Dual touch isn't something that works well or is even necessary on a screen this size. There are also several customisable "flicks" which allow drag up/down and forward/back I havn't found these particularly useful or straightforward to perform. and usually they happen when you dont want them I practiced them for a while and gave up. </p><p> </p><p>
Some fine control that is required for say resizing a text box in word is better performed with a mouse, the screen just doesn't handle that very fine control very well, but in fairness you wouldn't do this on a smartboard either. I would say this is part of the learning curve as what you can and can't do that teachers would need to get used to.  More annoying is the slight offset at times from where your finger is to when item you think you are clicking on despite any amount of calibrating. Also the double click pause duration. You can set this up in windows but it affects all users. The cursor responds with a ripple to show where it thinks you have clicked so you can adjust, but it is not 100% accurate, is it any worse than a smartboard? I'd say about the same. Also you have right click if you press and hold and wait for the circle to complete, I sometimes use this instead of the double click to open an icon as its more reliable than double clicking and waiting.</p><p> </p><p>
calibrating</p><p>
<a href="http://s1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/?action=view&amp;current=20120627_105733.mp4" rel="external nofollow">http://s1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/?action=view&amp;current=20120627_105733.mp4</a> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p>
Google Earth</p><p>
to follow</p><p> </p><p>
text box resize link to video</p><p>
<a href="http://s1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/?action=view%C2%A4t=20120627_100824.mp4" rel="external nofollow">http://s1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/?action=view¤t=20120627_100824.mp4</a> </p><p> </p><p>
The screen is reflective glass, strip lights on the ceiling or unblinded windows directly opposite will make viewing more difficult, but so long as its not excessive bright sunsine its not really that bad. If you move your head a few inches to one side it makes it possible to see what a strip light was obscurring previously. I have asked the children here what they think and they don't see it as a problem, and certainly better than a projector screen in similar conditions.  Projectors compete with ambient light so lights nearer the screen cause more problems, as the downside to these the issue is with reflective light, light sorces further away are more of an issue. </p><p> </p><p>
<a href="http://s1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/?action=view%C2%A4t=20120627_103221.jpg" rel="external nofollow"><span>http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/th_20120627_103221.jpg</span></a></p><p> </p><p>
<a href="http://s1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/?action=view%C2%A4t=20120627_104231.jpg" rel="external nofollow"><span>http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/th_20120627_104231.jpg</span></a></p><p> </p><p>
<a href="http://s1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/?action=view%C2%A4t=20120627_103327.jpg" rel="external nofollow"><span>http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/th_20120627_103327.jpg</span></a></p><p> </p><p>
The sound quality is very good, easily up to music or playing DVDs The only issue I would say is the audio cable running via a standard 3.5mm headphone jack tends to be  bit noisy on one laptop powered installation. I have noticed some background hum with the speakers powered above half way, but it also picks up internal hardrive/cpu EM noise so its probably the usual consumer grade sound cards/ unearthed power supplies etc that are at least partly to blame. I may try a better shielded cable to see if it makes a difference. </p><p> </p><p>
The software that comes with it is pretty poor. Lynx 4 is meant to take on the role of Smartboard software replacement, at which it fails. So consider if your staff have a million resources in notebook they wont import and display, they will need to be converted, or run with smart software (if you have the license currently.) Also the proxy support on Lynx is an issue, I couldn't get it working so the inline browser wont work on it. Not a biggy just use your existing browser, just an annoyance that it doesn't work as it should, I have been the the developers site and tried modifying the registry to correct it without success.</p><p> </p><p>
Overall these are definitley a better install over a projector, and not unreasonable considering the cost of a new projector install they are neater. From display point of view I would say no question they are better. From an interaction point of view I would say they are on a par with the accuracy and response of a smartboard. There are a few other vendors out there offering similar products, whether they are actually the same hardware underneath is yet to be seen.</p>]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">717</guid><pubDate>Wed, 27 Jun 2012 11:00:27 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Clever Dual Touch  LCD screen</title><link>https://www.edugeek.net/blogs/entry/716-clever-dual-touch-lcd-screen/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>I have had several of these installed at the primaries where I work. As a projector replacement they work well on paper, no shadow cast, no bulb to replace, evenly lit accross the display, less wires makes for a tidier installation, toughened glass etc. There's quite a few reasons to replace those aging projectors or if you have a new build then the increased labour costs of projector installation may well off set the overall cost of one of these. </p><p> </p><p>
I'd say the weight of one of these might be the first thing to consider, I have one mounted to a plasterboard partition but there is a substancial piece of chipboard to reinforce it. I would guess these weigh in at around the 50KG mark so budget for reinforcement if mounting to a non structural wall.</p><p> </p><p>
 we had our supply and fit carried out by a local firm in Bolton (IDN)   As a standard part of the installation they have wired the screen back to a VGA and sound distribution box on the wall. As the PC is HDMI out capable (DELL optiplex 390) this was unnecessary, as the HDMI cable can go straight to the LCD screen and has the benefit of carrying the audio as well. This then leaves the local monitor to run from the VGA cable as a duplicate output. This seems to be a standard installation to allow for VGA only capable computers. .</p><p> </p><p>
 The driver installation was straight forward plug in the USB and HDMI and then a bit of messing with display resolutions to get the best combination. The best setup with the HDMI cable is running an Intel HD graphics 2000 driver version 8.15.10.2509 1280X1024 60Hz seems to be the resolution that is working best for me on both cloned monitors.</p><p> </p><p>
In use the screen is as you would expect it to be, reasonably quick to respond and accurate enough for most clicks and drags, certainly good enough for most teaching activities. There is a calibration software but you only really need to use it once as unlike a projector installation the board to projector isn't changing everytime someone closes a door!  We have the dual touch variety which in theory is great allowing you that ipadseque pinch and unpinch for zooming. In reality Dual touch isn't something that works well or is even necessary on a screen this size. There are also several customisable "flicks" which allow drag up/down and forward/back I havn't found these particularly useful or straightforward to perform. and usually they happen when you dont want them I practiced them for a while and gave up. </p><p> </p><p>
Some fine control that is required for say resizing a text box in word is better performed with a mouse, the screen just doesn't handle that very fine control very well, but in fairness you wouldn't do this on a smartboard either. I would say this is part of the learning curve as what you can and can't do that teachers would need to get used to.  More annoying is the slight offset at times from where your finger is to when item you think you are clicking on despite any amount of calibrating. Also the double click pause duration. You can set this up in windows but it affects all users. The cursor responds with a ripple to show where it thinks you have clicked so you can adjust, but it is not 100% accurate, is it any worse than a smartboard? I'd say about the same. Also you have right click if you press and hold and wait for the circle to complete, I sometimes use this instead of the double click to open an icon as its more reliable than double clicking and waiting.</p><p> </p><p>
calibrating</p><p>
<a href="http://s1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/?action=view&amp;current=20120627_105733.mp4" rel="external nofollow">http://s1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/?action=view&amp;current=20120627_105733.mp4</a> </p><p> </p><p>
google earth</p><p>
to follow</p><p> </p><p>
text box resize link to video</p><p>
<a href="http://s1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/?action=view%C2%A4t=20120627_100824.mp4" rel="external nofollow">http://s1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/?action=view¤t=20120627_100824.mp4</a> </p><p> </p><p>
The screen is reflective glass, strip lights on the ceiling or unblinded windows directly opposite will make viewing more difficult, but so long as its not excessive bright sunsine its not really that bad. If you move your head a few inches to one side it makes it possible to see what a strip light was obscurring previously. I have asked the children here what they think and they don't see it as a problem, and certainly better than a projector screen in similar conditions.  Projectors compete with ambient light so lights nearer the screen cause more problems, as the downside to these the issue is with reflective light, light sorces further away are more of an issue. </p><p> </p><p>
<a href="http://s1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/?action=view%C2%A4t=20120627_103221.jpg" rel="external nofollow"><span>http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/th_20120627_103221.jpg</span></a></p><p> </p><p>
<a href="http://s1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/?action=view%C2%A4t=20120627_104231.jpg" rel="external nofollow"><span>http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/th_20120627_104231.jpg</span></a></p><p> </p><p>
<a href="http://s1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/?action=view%C2%A4t=20120627_103327.jpg" rel="external nofollow"><span>http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg577/hacksawbob/BobsBlog/th_20120627_103327.jpg</span></a></p><p> </p><p>
The sound quality is very good, easily up to music or playing DVDs The only issue I would say is the audio cable running via a standard 3.5mm headphone jack tends to be  bit noisy on one laptop powered installation. I have noticed some background hum with the speakers powered above half way, but it also picks up internal hardrive/cpu EM noise so its probably the usual consumer grade sound cards/ unearthed power supplies etc that are at least partly to blame. I may try a better shielded cable to see if it makes a difference. </p><p> </p><p>
The software that comes with it is pretty poor. Lynx 4 is meant to take on the role of Smartboard software replacement, at which it fails. So consider if your staff have a million resources in notebook they wont import and display, they will need to be converted, or run with smart software (if you have the license currently.) Also the proxy support on Lynx is an issue, I couldn't get it working so the inline browser wont work on it. Not a biggy just use your existing browser, just an annoyance that it doesn't work as it should, I have been the the developers site and tried modifying the registry to correct it without success.</p><p> </p><p>
Overall these are definitley a better install over a projector, and not unreasonable considering the cost of a new projector install they are neater. From display point of view I would say no question they are better. From an interaction point of view I would say they are on a par with the accuracy and response of a smartboard. There are a few other vendors out there offering similar products, whether they are actually the same hardware underneath is yet to be seen.</p>]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">716</guid><pubDate>Wed, 27 Jun 2012 10:51:32 +0000</pubDate></item></channel></rss>
