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Other Stuff Thread, Archery in Fun Stuff; Let us know how it goes, i have been interested in taking up archery for a while. Never got round ...
  1. #16


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    Let us know how it goes, i have been interested in taking up archery for a while. Never got round to it though, would be good to know the startup cost.

  2. #17

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    start up cost will depend on what you want to shoot, below is a rough cost for compound and recurve.

    compound.
    £250 for a bow (Mission rally)
    £40 for a set of ally arrows shop made
    £40 for a wrist release aid or £150 for a thumb release aid
    £10 for a stand
    £50 sight
    £30 scope
    £5 peep sight
    £20 arrow rest
    £20 long rod
    £40 soft case or £80 for a hard case
    £3 finger sling

    Recurve
    £150 for a bow package this will include riser(handle), Limbs, button and arrow rest.
    £50 backpack case
    £20 for a decent tab
    £10 chest guard
    £5 Bracer (arm guard)
    £10 stand
    £40 for a set of ally arrows shop made
    £3 finger sling

    The list is just off the top of my head and prices are approx, if you are interested I would get on a beginners course to see if it is something you enjoy look at getting your own stuff a couple of months after completing the beginners course. I have seen lots of people buy all the kit during the beginners course and found out after a couple of weeks they don't like archery.
    Last edited by JOrdan01070; 22nd May 2013 at 11:34 AM.

  3. #18


    AMLightfoot's Avatar
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    I, too, am a toxophiliac and have my own basic recurve kit. @JOrdan01070 is pretty much spot on although they neglected to mention the club fees, GNAS fees and County fees. If you wish to join a club and to shoot for sport you MUST MUST MUST have a current GNAS membership - this is your liability insurance in case (touch wood) you should ever accidently shoot someone. To get GNAS Membership you must be a member of a club. Some clubs allow members of other clubs to shoot as a 'Guest' but you must be affiliated with a club to shoot (unless you are shooting at specific facilities or events where insurance is provided). The fees you pay are all rolled together and usually there are county fees to pay - it varies from place to place but most clubs charge a yearly subscription which includes Club fees (which cover maintenance of the grounds/hire of facilities, maintenance and purchase of club equipment such as bosses, arrows, club bows etc), County fees and GNAS fees and your club will register you with GNAS. I do not believe you can register yourself with GNAS although I have not looked into it as no clubs in our area would take me if this were the case. My bow is a Sebastian Flute Premium and that was about £200ish in a sale I think.

    If you choose to join a club, a good club will require a beginners course and will only allow you to shoot when an instructor is present until they deem that you are competent enough not to require supervision. The instructor will go with you to choose your bow and it is worth trying several - I really liked one particular bow another Archer at the club had but when I tried it for myself it felt unbalanced and was difficult to handle but the SF bow which I wasn't as keen on felt lovely and fitted me beautifully. It was well worth shopping with an instructor/coach as they know far more about what you are buying than you do at this point and will steer you away from the high price, high performance gear that looks nice but isn't really suited to a beginner. Sadly with everything going on in the house I don't have the money for my fees so I've had to stop shooting for a while.

    Don't be tempted to shoot in your back garden with these 'beginner packs' you can get off the internet either - very dangerous and really only suitable if you live on a farm or have a few hundred acres.
    Last edited by AMLightfoot; 23rd May 2013 at 03:01 PM.

  4. #19
    mjs_mjs's Avatar
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    Hi guys - I'm an archer, shoot regularly at my uni club. I used club kit till i got into it and brought my own. My advice would be go to a club and get stuck in.

  5. #20

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    Another archer here, as soon as I saw this thread I just knew there would be people advocating the teccy compounds bows I shoot recurve as barebow and longbow, prefer low tech
    Ok, usually with beginners courses they will let you do the first session as a taster session and don't have to commit/pay for the whole beginners course until after the first session. At most clubs you cannot just turn up and ask to have a go, there has to be someone who is qualified as a trainer present to supervise otherwise they are in breach of their insurance, it's not until you've completed the beginners course and signed up as a member that you can shoot without a trainer present.
    I would recommend not doing the course in one weekend, it is better to do it over a few weeks as even though the bows used on beginner courses are very low poundage you are using muscles you've never used before, or should be if you're being trained properly.
    If you do take it up, don't be tempted to buy a bow off the internet, especially a second had one off fleabay. If you've seen recurve or compound limbs break on draw then you'll understand why. Get recommendations from the club of a good local archery shop and go there. They will set up the bow properly for you and also allow you to test limbs of different draw weights. Don't be tempted to go too heavy on the draw weight to start with, it's better to start with slightly less which will allow your body to get used to it and also it is easier to perfect a good technique if you're not stressing your body. Archery shop will allow you to trade in your limbs for higher poundage ones when you need to move up.

  6. #21

    nephilim's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=teejay;974320]Another archer here, as soon as I saw this thread I just knew there would be people advocating the teccy compounds bows I shoot recurve as barebow and longbow, prefer low tech [quote] For a beginner that cannot handle draw weights of 40lbs +, a compound bow is the way to go for them until they get used to the low draws, then move up to the recurve and have a low draw limb on there and move up until they can handle the 40lbs+ (my compound only takes 20lbs to do 95lbs of draw), where as my recurve I need to do the full 95lbs (which hurts after a while).

  7. #22

    teejay's Avatar
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    Compounds require a different shooting technique and use different muscles, so you would have to start with a low poundage recurve as soon as you moved to that anyway. Also, the distance achieved with a compound bow just isn't safe for a beginner, a low poundage recurve allows them to shoot safely at shorter distances, it's going to be a good few months before the average archer even get to 60 yards, so plenty of time to work up to the higher poundages to do longer distances. You also have the problem that compound bows are more complicated to set up and maintain, it's easier for beginners to learn the basics of maintenance on a recurve and then decide if they want to stick with recurve or move to compound or traditional bows, or a mix of any of those.

    Edit: I wouldn't be starting a beginner on anywhere near 40lb draw, one for safety and two you need to develop technique at low poundages and then build up.
    Last edited by teejay; 23rd May 2013 at 04:19 PM.

  8. #23

    nephilim's Avatar
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    I wouldnt advocate starting at 40lbs either, I am using it as a generalised figure for a median user

  9. #24

    teejay's Avatar
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    That's good Neph, I was beginning to think you were all built like barn doors and on steroids down your way ;-)

    Anyone else done any field archery, it really makes you appreciate what a tough time our ancestors had at feeding themselves.

  10. #25

    nephilim's Avatar
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    Anyone that has met me from the geek knows I am built like the proverbial!

  11. #26


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    LOL I am a left handed Lady shooter and when I did my beginner course the club gave me a bow that was around 20lbs ish my current bow is set to 26lbs but can be dialled up. I believe Males start around the 30lb mark? I believe there is a 59lb maximum limit as a compound archer at the previous club used to have a 60lb bow and I remember him having trouble at competitions. Don't quote me on that though...

    Regarding fees, to give you an idea, my local club year fees are in the region of £180. Which to be fair isn't much but since you can't pay it monthly I can't afford the lump sum :-( not having just bought a car...
    Last edited by AMLightfoot; 24th May 2013 at 09:20 AM.

  12. #27
    mjs_mjs's Avatar
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    I'm a leftie too (this is more to do with eyes than arms/coordination.)

  13. #28


    AMLightfoot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjs_mjs View Post
    I'm a leftie too (this is more to do with eyes than arms/coordination.)
    Luckily for me it just so happens that as a left hander I, too am left eyed. This means my 'stronger' arm is my drawing arm. On my beginners course there was a right handed-left eyed shooter and she struggled to co-ordinate and draw her bow because her left arm was comparatively weak - she got bruised a lot too on the inner elbow.

    Should have mentioned that earlier - be prepared for some glorious purple shiners when you start out - all Archers get one at least once XD

  14. #29
    mjs_mjs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AMLightfoot View Post
    be prepared for some glorious purple shiners when you start out
    Most defiantly - don't be put off tho - they don't hurt that much, more annoying that anything else.

  15. #30

    nephilim's Avatar
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    ahh the bruises, they hurt getting them, but not so much after. It is a case of adjusting really

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