Considering how cheap it is at the moment, I would definitely go with 16GB too. 8GB costs approx. £31-£35 for two 4GB DDR3-1333 DIMMs (P/N: KVR1333D3N9K2/8G).
Kingston RAM is currently the best in terms of reliability.
Well still, the max I would recommend for a regular user who doesn't have a specific use like the op is 6GB and that is the most.
My PC at home is used for all sorts of tasks with windows vista and never goes over 3.5GB of usage. And that's the memory hungry Vista, playing hardware intensive games xD
There's no point in getting more than 6GB of RAM(cheap or not) unless you do have a specific need which will actually use it like the op.
Are you using the 32bit version of Vista? That coule explain the 3.5GB maximum.
Its just good practice to spec a larger PSU than absolutely necessary, that way you give yourself room to manoeuvre should you want to do something like Crossfire or add extra HDDs in the future.
The point on upgrading too - There's no such thing as future proofing PC's and if there are ever cases where future proofing is possible, it's usually only on adding an extra port which you may need in the future or something like that. Having more RAM that you won't be using now is not a good idea and would certainly be fruitless for most people.
Seriously, the biggest mistake that IT professional and Tech-noobs alike make when looking at computers, computer hardware or indeed any technical goods, is actually reading what's on the box written from the manufacturer... Nearly all of it is just marketing bull, although that's not why AMD tell you you need a 450+Watt PSU to run this card. They just about double the actual usage need for all their components to facilitate for the crappy PSU's on the market some of which only offer half of their stated power.
Sapphire Radeon HD 6770 1GB Vapor-X Video Card Review - Power Consumption Tests :: TweakTown USA Edition
Here's a benchmark for the more powerful & slightly more power hungry 6770 GPU(presumed). The readings are for the total system power consumption, which has some rather power hungry components in it. So it's a pretty good idea of how much of a PSU would need whether adding in extra hard-drives or whatever. In this test system the max power consumed(full load) was only 263watts(188w Idle) which would be about 61% of the rated wattage of the PSU I recommended, right in the sweet spot of efficiency with lots and lots of power spare for more hard-drives :)
I normally get a Decent 600 Watt PSU that way I am covered for the graphics card, motherboard a few hard drives, couple of optical drives and some other bits although saying that the computer I have already has 1000 Watt PSU - not sure what make or how good it is but has lasted 3 years nearly so can't be that bad. Before everyone slates this post yes I have an early 2008 mac pro and yes I know how most swear at them and not by them :)
Just like if you use a compatible toner cartridge and then have an unrelated issue with your printer, no manufacturer will repair without trying to blame the compatible toner cartridge.
So, regardless of what you think of the blurb put by the manufacturer, there are reasons to follow their advice.
Plus, for the sake of future-proofing, and basically £20, why spec a small PSU?
If you had an issue with the card, then it wouldn't be the PSU(unless it was a faulty part) in this prospective machine and the GPU manufacturers would know that. Although they put a rating on the box to stop people from buying a PSU which can't handle the system, they themselves are not ignorant to the power actually needed to run their components.
Either way that's a pretty irrelevant argument considering if your GPU is dead, your GPU is dead. You RMA it and that's it.
There's no way I'm going to get into a post battle with you, comparing a PC's PSU and a Printer's Toner and arguing that your warranty would be somehow invalid? Mate, really no offence, but you clearly have no idea what you're talking about.
On the point of buying a bigger PSU for a future build. Well that's not an altogether ridiculous idea, BUT what I would say is that pretty much the only people who would ever need to buy a PSU bigger than 400watt are people with a mad amount of hard-drives or gamers who have high powered GPU's(2GPU's or 1 very high end).
If you don't see yourself as ever being either of those two types of user, then you simply won't need the extra power.
What should also be noted is that PSU's efficiency is usually at it's highest when being used around it's mid range of power output. So it's actually better to buy the, "just right" amount of power with a reasonable overhead than to "overbuy" and then lose out when the electricity comes.
P.S. The higher end ones will often contradict this and be of a very high efficiency through all power outputs.
I don't claim to be an expert in computer building and buying, but I've got a huge interest in computer hardware and more specifically the computer hardware marketplace. I've helped spec up hundreds of PC's and conducted a study into the same. I'm no expert, but I know what I know :)
just my £0.02 but
1. if you buy a PSU of decent make and reasonable wattage ie I would say 500 or 600 watts ( I normally go for 600 )
a. If you upgrade later on ie more hard drives, better graphics card or whatever then it will give you the extra wattage to do so
b. If you do go with a 400 Watt one and your graphics card you have or get in the future or you want to buy extra hard drives and you require a PSU with more wattage then you have to ditch the current 400 W one and fork out more money for another higher rated wattage PSU hence future proofing
Am not trying to argue just saying that I prefer to try and future proof to a degree where possible to give myself some room to do so without having to fork out further money which I could of done at the start by an extra £30 or so in the first place to give me a 600 watt vs a 400 watt psu
Either way I have not built a PC for quite some time.
Tbh Mac_Shinobi, I didn't mean to debate with you at all. (I read your post but figured you wanted to be left alone with your 1Kw PSU :p)
Either way, I'm not sure if you're aware but a hard-drive uses around 10watts... Considering that most computers on full load would use less than 240watts and less than 200 in idle... Well I don't know how many hard-drives you'd want, but there's still a lot of room left over.
Regarding the GPU, though I said in my last post that it's very much up to the person and their use. Obviously you must be a gamer talking about switching and swapping GPU's, but as I said in the previous post...
btw about your 1Kw PSU, I hope for your sake it cost you in excess of £100, because if it didn't I'd fear not only for the PSU, but for your whole PC. Cheap PSU's(relative to their wattage) lack some security features and their poor performance can actually put stress on components and even short your whole system :/Quote:
...the only people who would ever need to buy a PSU bigger than 400watt are people with a mad amount of hard-drives or gamers who have high powered GPU's(2GPU's or 1 very high end).
You don't have to spend big money to get a good PSU, but you might have to spend big money cleaning up the mess a cheap PSU could leave you...
eXtreme Power Supply Calculator
along with motherboards.org and some other motherboard websites etc
Early 2008 Apple Mac Pro is what I have and it has worked great and have also paid for apple care which covers everything so if it did go bang in a cloud of smoke it would be covered , also have contents insurance so again covered
Ref the PSU thing - not trying to debate or anything but its like saying I want to use a 1.4 petrol engine to drive at 120 mph as that's near its max limit and it can handle it which is true but it's nearer or closer its maximum so will make the engine work a lot harder and will most likely kill it faster because its nearer its max limit or load all the time.
I presume that the same would be true of a power supply , cpu, hard drive or otherwise hence why I said going for something a bit more then you need so when you do put it under strain its not anywhere near its threshold of what it can take and hence ( should last longer ). At least that's my view - could be wrong
Am of the view of I'd much rather have it and not need it then need it and not have it :)
I'm not suggesting to anyone that they try to drive at 120mph in a 1.4litre Engine Car.
Similarly it would be a bad idea to run a PSU or any machine at it's max load all the time(Unless it was designed for it of course).
This is, however once again completely irrelevant to this case.
I'm proposing a 430watt PSU for a PC which would have a need for around 260watts max...
That's about 60-65% when in full load and completely acceptable.
I really don't have the time to continuously repeat what I've said over and over again.
1 cpu, 2 sticks of RAM ( 2 * 4gb ), 2 usb devices ( keyboard and mouse ) , AMD II X6 1100T, 1 dvd drive, 1 regular sata hdd, ati 6790, 4 fans
Total usage is 405 Watts so is pretty much 90% load, I'm with localzuk on this one and the gfx card suggested I think was the 6590 series card and that requires a lot more.
Ditching the regular sata hdd to a flash ssd drops about 5 watts but still does not give much room for upgrades and also means its running at about 85 to 90% load with the specs the OP requested.
Obviously you can adjust sticks of ram as required but original post stated
AMD II X6 T1100
ATI 69xx series card
people have suggested either 8 or 16gb of ram ( Depending on money and requirements so adjust as needed )
one SSD of choice and I presume at least one regular SATA HDD for storage as a lot of people would imo want somewhere safe to store data other then the SSD
Optical drive for OS installation etc
2 USB Devices for keyboard and mouse
Had to pick the 6790 as that was the closest I could find in the list of graphics card to the 6590, 4 fans for cooling ( obviously again adjust as required )
I have tried adjusting things to make it use the least amount and even then its still hitting around 390 ish so still quite high on a 430 watt PSU
Anyone in the know, knows that those calculators are rubbish.
If you actually do a bit of googling and research yourself you'll find that out. There's no agreeing or disagreeing on how much power these components use, it's all there in writing from results conducted by experts if you go looking for it. It's not just someone talking bull on a forum it's fact.
I don't mean to sound like an ass here, big headed or whatever, but I do know what I'm talking about. I've got quite a bit of experience and done a lot of research regarding computer hardware and specifically getting the best PC for your needs and budget.
This thread is quickly disintegrating into some kind of post battle, which I can assure you I will not be partaking in. This is supposed to be about the op trying to get a new PC, it's not about who's right, who's actually providing solid background to what they're saying or who actually has experience doing this hundreds of times...
You can choose to disagree all you like, that's fine, I'm not fussed, but it's ruining the thread and for the op's sake, it should be dropped.