General Chat Thread, why is my car heater not working?? in General; aye, Vx 16 valvers are like that. It's only the 8 valvers (C14/16SE, Z16SE, X16SZ/SZR) that seem to have it ...
5th December 2010, 07:31 PM #16
aye, Vx 16 valvers are like that. It's only the 8 valvers (C14/16SE, Z16SE, X16SZ/SZR) that seem to have it in the daft place.
5th December 2010, 08:37 PM #17
Sirbendy. I have had a bit of a shocker today...
after reading your post, i decided that i was going to buy the thermostat from a local car parts place rather than wait a couple of days for eBay. I went in and explained what i was doing (which got a few funny looks), told them the part i wanted and they got it for me. Except the thermostat that they sold me (which was for the same model cars as on eBay) was different to the one you suggested on eBay and it didn't fit, it was too wide (by about 2-3mm). So I went to buy the one you suggested on ebay and now the auction has ended and do you think I can find another one the same... NO!
Where can I get one from? I thought I was going to have some heat for the journey into work this week but it looks like ill have to wait now.
6th December 2010, 08:54 AM #18
do you still have the 'stat?
You were trying to put the stat in the hose end nearest the engine, yes? It should fit, maybe a bit snug, but it should be fine.
Get a jug of boiling water, or a hairdryer or similar heat source and stick the end of the hose in it/use it to heat the hose itself up nice and toasty..cold hoses won't flex, hot hoses tend to expand a bit...and try getting it in there then. Maybe a bit of fairy liquid lubrication on the 'stat might help it slip in. Ooer.
What size is your engine? (although IIRC they all use the same hoses!).
Option 2 is to put cardboard sheets in front of your radiator and block off the airflow..not as good, but workable.
Told you they'd look at you funny.. I've had the EGR valve fail twice on mine at £80 a pop. Now my EGR valve is bolted to the OUTSIDE of the engine, clicking in the air. In it's place is a nice CNC cut blanking plate. Problem solved forever, with better emissions on the MOT! That always gets a grin from the testers.."we see what you did there"..
6th December 2010, 09:31 AM #19
nice. Ive managed to find one. After a bit of research, i found that I needed to buy a Firstline stat, not a Quinten Hazell stat. There is a difference of 3.5mm in diameter between the 2 which should just do the trick.
Good work! just like Dick Strawbridge. you should be on scapheap challege!
Originally Posted by Sirbendy
5th January 2011, 11:33 AM #20
I put in the new stat over the xmas break, took me about 10 minutes. I get a lovely hot car now but the temperature gauge goes up to 100 degrees and then goes back to normal (90 degrees) then goes back up to 100 and then it goes back to about 95-97 degrees where it stays. Why doesn't it go back to normal operating temperature? any ideas anyone?? the new stat is rated at 89 degrees.
5th January 2011, 02:18 PM #21
aye, normal. I remember taking the Z16SE for the inaugural thraping down the new A5 at speed, and looking at the gauge followed by "oh***t! TOO hot. WHOA baby..".
First one was an airlock..heh. Forgot that.
Mine now goes to 100 then drops, same as yours. Only does it once per run, mind you. Sits lower than yours too..about 85-90. I have an automatic though, so I get a bigger radiator with an oil cooler, not sure if that has any impact.
"normal" temp..not really sure. It ramps up because the thermostat has moved into a hose, and there's a delay imposed now before the wax stat opens up, so the gauge sender will see higher temps ramping up, then the wax stat opens, readings drop..however, I strongly suspect that the influx of cooler water then shuts the stat down a bit, so it may "bounce" once or twice as the entire coolant amount warms up to the same level.
When was the system last flushed? Mine is apparently due a service in 80 days according to my laptop/the ECU (got to love ecoflex servicing). After this weather, that'll be a wheelramps jobbie. Engine oil, coolant, oil and air filter, plug check, and autobox drain and refill will be carried out. I'll do a full flush of the cooling system as part of that - I know I've got a ruddy air bubble in the heater matrix ATM..I can hear it.
5th January 2011, 02:39 PM #22
I had a service only a few months ago. Ive read that there might be an air lock in the system somewhere. how can I bleed the radiator? I would be happy if mine sat at 90, its just a bit too high for my liking at the mo.
Originally Posted by Sirbendy
5th January 2011, 03:11 PM #23
^^And one always snaps on Minis...
Last edited by 3s-gtech; 5th January 2011 at 04:05 PM.
5th January 2011, 06:38 PM #24
You're dam right it does then you have to weld a nut to it to wind it out. Or even worse, what i managed last week, bottomed a stud out and cracked the head. Had to do some interesting welding and retapping. But it's allll ok now. But i sat the ruddy cylinder head on its face and snapped the spade off the effin temp sender. So now i need a new one. Grrr.
Glad you're getting somewhere Admiral. Try getting the same size stat which opens earlier, at a lower temperature, if it stays the same. Do these also have an electric fan? It should be cutting in about 92 if it does. Also, unleaded engines run most economically at about 85 - 90 so thats not such a bad temp. But be careful while it's running so hot, dont do the gasket. No worse than it constantly running cold though as the oil wont be getting up to temp in those circumstances.
6th January 2011, 10:40 AM #25
Vx fans don't cut in until approx 95 deg. Certainly the MK4 doesn't. Mind you, my laptop couldn't communicate with the cooling system control module 2 days ago..hah.
Problem with the lower temp stat is that they're hard to find. It's a Renault one in a Vx engine, and the old Renault lumps pretty much used the same stat throughout.
The Systems are usually self-bleeding, TBH. I fill mine, close the lid, run it till the fans cut in with the heater set to max heat, then turn off. Wait for it to cool a bit, open the tank and top up if needed. Possibly squeezing the top hose may assist.
I recall doing a Mitsu Shogun V6..that had a MASSIVE airlock after a refill..when it let that go it was like Vesuvius going off.
Just dropped my Astra into a local garage who kindly booked her in for an emergency MOT at 9.30, after I realised mine had expired on the 4th..*cough*. Reasonably confident - all bulbs work, all ancillaries work, all ECUs check out fine, no DTCs logged, nothing outside of normal operating range in any readout, including pre and post CAT sensors..lets see, shall we..
6th January 2011, 11:25 AM #26
The stat i put it is rated at 89 degrees. The factory fitted one is 90 degrees. Ive read that there is a bleeding screw just behind the carb. Do you know if its easy to do? I might just let it heat up and leave the filler cap off. Do you think that will do the same thing?
Good luck with the MOT. I left mine about 6 weeks before i realized that it had expired. oops. Wont be doing that again!
6th January 2011, 12:28 PM #27
Carburettor? It''s been a few years now since I've owned a non EFi car, I'm afraid.
Both my MK3s and the MK4 are MPi, so no carburettor or equivalent manifold unit.
If you run it without the cap, you'll leave the cooling system under a no-pressure condition, which will lead to it boiling. Leave the cap on, let it run up until the fans cut in, maybe rev it a bit to push water around. Then off, let it cool, open the cap to release the pressure, top up if needed.
The MK4 failed the MOT, bless it. 2 advisories - 1 tyre at legal minimum (bothered, I have spares), 1 brake valve rusty (bothered, I said show me when I pick it up, when I get it on ramps I'll sort it out).
The Failure reason was the rear brake load adjusting valve, seized totally. Cost of repair is £18, I can have my car ready pre-4pm so I can pick up tiddler. Job done, and I'm happy with that. Last year was 2 new brake lines. Stupid non-copper standard fit junk.
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