General Chat Thread, Camera Advice in General; Get a load of this:
I love the strobist look. Just by shortening the exposure, you can radically change ...
28th May 2013, 08:34 PM #16
Get a load of this:
I love the strobist look. Just by shortening the exposure, you can radically change the sky and background, but the flash gives consistent illumination and is not affected by the camera shutter speed (flash illuminates for 1/10,0000 vs camera's 1/250 or thereabouts).
Last edited by jinnantonnixx; 28th May 2013 at 09:17 PM.
28th May 2013, 08:49 PM #17
They are not fast, but while better lenses will give you a few more stops - they will not move the sun in front of the subject. A good flash will zoom with the lens and give you 50-100ft *fill in*. That should lift the subject from the background - at least enough to make the photo-shop dodge and burn a bit easier (but with the right treatment you really won't need it). It also widens your choice of aperture if you know your *subject* will be three stops better lit than even the spot TTL metering says.
Originally Posted by teejay
You can of course go out and spend a fortune on a better body (you know you want to), and sharper, faster lenses (you know you want to), but at this point if you are just using your on board flash, go out and spend the money on a decent Speedlight. You can do the rest later anyway and you will not regret having a decent flash, ever!
28th May 2013, 09:03 PM #18
Thanks @pcstru, that looks a good option, would the 320EX be ok for this or should I go up to the 430EX II? Either way, that's a lot cheaper option than the USM lenses I've been looking at
28th May 2013, 11:36 PM #19
Faster lenses all well and good, but you trade light for a wafer thin depth of field. Need to get a new flash myself and then the hard bit ; learn how to use it!
29th May 2013, 08:40 AM #20
Also need to get myself a flash. Already have a 50mm 1.4 and a 17-55 2.8 lens, and totally agree with Tom about the razor thin depth of field when using the 50mm at 1.4 . We've just got a full lighting setup here in school and it's been good fun playing with proper studio lighting setups - so very tempted to get my own (much smaller) set.
Very tempted to get myself 1 or 2 YN568EX and the YN622 triggers - the Yongnuo triggers/flash guns are sooo cheap compared to Canon and get some good reviews over on talkphotography
29th May 2013, 09:33 AM #21
I'd go for the 430 or even spend a bit more and get the 600. There are some powerful compatibles around quite cheap which seem to draw good comments - personally I'd stick with the speedlite but it depends on your attitude to risk (spending and finding out it doesn't live up to what you want). Or scour flea-bay...
Originally Posted by teejay
I bought a 530 10 years ago to pack in with my old D60, it's suffered some abuse over the years but is still going strong, so IMO the kit is well built and reliable.
29th May 2013, 09:49 AM #22
Hi it's a difficult subject you have chosen, and as you are finding getting the action caught is difficult. Low light photography and action just don't mix, at least with your setup. As jinnantonix says adding some off camera flash is the way to go and the manual adjustment of old manual flashes is much easier than messing with menus on the modern flashes. As for mounting the flash this is where you need to be creative. an old boot will hold a flash in position nicely! You could defininitley get set up for around £100. It might be worth thinking about an old manual focus lens with an adapter, there are a stack of cheap 50mm f1.8 for penny's. take a look on mflenses.com for more info. The trick then is to set a smaller aperture with predefined focus point and make the action come to you! Throw the ball or frisbee in the same spot and reward the dogs when they do it right! It can also be interesting to introduce some movement with the flash with a slower shutter and moving the camera, google for drag flash, and some gels to the flash for different colors, that sort of thing. You will have a low hit rate to begin with, so try experimenting on static subjects as well. Also try altering the balance of ambient light to flash by varying the aperture and leaving everything else the same, flash one side and sunlight the other can be quite dramatic! You won't be taking masterpieces straight off but stick with it it can be really rewarding.
Looking at you images, I would also suggest changing your angle, the better ones there are when you were on eye level and close up, The portrait is a lovely shot. Taking pictures from your standard standing position gets very few decent shots IMHO.
29th May 2013, 10:02 AM #23
Always a good idea to get down on the same level as your subjects baby's means on the floor
29th May 2013, 10:21 AM #24
That depends on the flash. A compatible Speedlite can be as simple as putting it in E-TTL mode and letting the flash sort out how much light it thinks it needs. You can even stick the camera on manual choose your aperture and a reasonable shutter speed and the flash will try and sort it out. In the long run you won't learn much doing that, but trying to take an incident meter reading off a dog playing in a park will IMO be a bit hit or miss.
Originally Posted by Hacksawbob
29th May 2013, 10:23 AM #25
Right, I think I'm going to go for the 430 EX II, had a look at those yongnuo ones and what puts me off a bit is that you cannot update the firmware so are unlikely to work with newer cameras. The canon flashes seem to hold good resale value so I can always upgrade later if necessary.
Yes I'm slowly learning about composition and getting down to their height, I've also got to train Mac as when I get down lower he instantly thinks its playtime and jumps all over me I only really started again back in February and with the rubbish weather haven't had that much chance to get out, but I'm definitely seeing a big improvement.
Thanks for all the advice, will hopefully get out at the weekend and test the flash if it turns up in time.
29th May 2013, 10:31 AM #26
The remote flash triggers work off the old school principle of coining two contacts together. They take their signal from the hot shoe contacts and relay to a second receiver which does the same thing on the flash contacts. Although I'm not familiar with that particular model that is usually the way they work.
29th May 2013, 10:34 AM #27
That's exactly how they work, for the basic ones at least. The Yongnuo remotes I bought can only cope with a trigger voltage of up to 12 volts, so you've got to be very careful plugging in old flashguns. Two of my guns are 6v, but another of mine I measured at 190v. For this, I have to use an old fashioned strobe sensor. Not a huge deal, but you have to have a line of sight.
Originally Posted by Hacksawbob
The ETTL remotes are a whole different story, and lots more cash.
As for Canon flash, I have an old 420EX and I wasn't impressed. The build quality of the Sunpaks are much better than the Canon, but then the Sunpaks are professional grade. Perhaps newer Canon flashes have improved, the 420EX is an amateur flash in any case.
Last edited by jinnantonnixx; 29th May 2013 at 10:41 AM.
29th May 2013, 11:13 AM #28
It always make me laugh that when someone asks me to take photos for them and I crouch down to get a good angle they invariably say something like "ohh, looks like we have a professional here"
Originally Posted by plexer
My favourite was when I was taking pics of my son and his friends at their graduation and I was referred to by another guy's mum as "a professional dad"! I was slightly less happy that when I sent her a link to my gallery of the photos she downloaded the lot and then posted them on her facebook page without any reference to who took them...
29th May 2013, 08:27 PM #29
Well, in the end I've ordered the Yongnuo YN568EX and the Yongnuo YN-622C Wireless TTL flash triggers, which combined were cheaper than just the 430EX II. They're through Amazon so I've got a few days to have a play and if I don't like them then send them back.
30th May 2013, 09:59 AM #30
Let's just take a step back here (and apologies if I'm teaching grandmother to suck eggs) and check that you're not shooting in auto mode? I'd probably go for Aperture Priority and set that to the biggest (smallest f-number) aperture you can. If that's not enough to get a clear shot, ramp up the ISO as far as you need to, but be aware that it might get grainy if you go too high, but you should get away with at least 800.
Originally Posted by teejay
I wonder if, rather than a flash, a reflector might help? You can "pop up" ones that aren't too big a hassle to carry.
For the colour issue, have you manually set the white balance?
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