RabbieBurns (25th March 2013)
For long exposure photography, get yourself a set of Neutral Density (ND) filters. Water looks lovely and smooth with the longer exposures these provide.
A graduated square ND filter can help you not blowing the sky out on bright days (or under-exposing the ground)
For night time photography I tend to set my ISO to 100 to keep the noise down and make the exposures longer.
Shooting in RAW is a must, you can rescue shots that are quite heavily under or over exposed that way.
Getting a remote release is good too. Canon do their own programmable one for about 50 quid, but you can get a 3rd party clone a LOT cheap.
One thing to note is that with every post, your bank account will become more and more empty.
Which kind of is what has wanted me to get into photography as I would like to eventually get into underwater photography.
If anyone can post links to actual filters and releases would be good please as I dont have a clue what im looking for, hanks.
Ditto, I do Scuba Diving too (BSAC), but own and have paid for all my equipment besides the cost of (bi)annual servicing, tests, or shiny new items that get released all the time!
Mountain Biking, Road Cycling, Mountain walking and camping....I think it is a path that many of us find ourselves on and following!
@JAB1a's Quadcopter could well be the new (expensive) hobby!
EDIT: as for remote triggers, they range from the very expensive to the very cheap, personally I use a cheap one like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kaavie-Remot...212027&sr=1-22
It works perfectly, but won't allow you to do fancy things like set up timers or do time lapse as some expensive ones do, it's purely a "push button to shoot" affair (though you can put it on "hold", which does exactly as it sounds and holds the shutter down).
Last edited by LosOjos; 25th March 2013 at 11:50 AM.
If it's underwater stuff you're after then you should look up Paul Duxfield. He came and gave a talk to our dive club a while back showing just what you can do with a compact camera.
Square / Rectangular Filters - Lens Filters - Wex Photographic - nice filters
A circular polariser is good for water shots too, cuts down on reflections and makes the water clearer.
LCD Timer Shutter Release Remote Control for Canon 20D 30D 40D 50D 7D 5D2 | eBay
for the release.
haven't had a chance to buy any filters or remote releases yet, or even read my collins textbook. But I did use the advice from above from somewhere to switch it to Auto to get the settings it would have used, and then switch it back to Raw (this seemed to kill the battery, I only got a half day trip to the Zoo out of it )
Here are some photos from a recent holiday. They were overcast days; I I have adjusted the lighting settings in Photoshop, but these still look really amateur. On the plus side, I really enjoyed taking them and it made me appreciate what I was looking at a lot more. And while they're nothing special, they are definitely nothing i could have captured with my old point and shoot.
Some of those are quite OK. The first Koala is reasonably sharp, well framed and with nice bokeh. The biggest problem with others is framing/composition. I'd suggest look at the the rule of thirds and if nothing else when you put the camera to your eye, think of how you can achieve that in the frame.
just had to google what 'bokeh' meant. Is there any way to change that? I have just been using autofocus and pointing it at the target, and then anything behind it is just blurred by default.
Will read the rule of thirds a bit more from the breif skim i just had. I borrowed a 55-200 zoom for that holiday too which made a big difference, for the croc show i was almost in the back row - any slight left or right would have had someones ear or head in the way.
What I dont like is the colour and overall quality of the photos I am taking to be honest.
When I look at something like this:
and I could go there tomorrow, set my camera to 0.8ƒ/14 ISO 100 35 mm like it says here SS Ayrfield | Flickr - Photo Sharing! it still would not look anything like that.
What you're really after - and what will make your photos look better, and different from what you could get with a P&S - is a shorter depth of field. You can get this by opening your aperture up more (i.e. a lower f number - f1.4 rather than f22; the range depends on the construction of the lens, and really big aperture lenses can cost a lot) or, on a telephoto lens, zooming in as much as possible.
In terms of colour etc., I would warrant that what you're feeling is a lack of contrast; load an image up in Photoshop, or the image editor of your choice, and tweak the levels to fill your dynamic range. The two tools you need to understand are Levels and Curves - some gumph here Comparing The Levels And Curves Image Adjustments In Photoshop - and whilst it looks very technical and scientific, in practice it's actually pretty simply. Understanding the theory, though, will help you when shooting, to make sure you are getting the most out of conditions at the time.
Quick n dirty: when you open an image in Photoshop, add a new Levels Adjustment layer, and move the black and white triangles in to the edge of the graph e.g.
depth of field. Basic rule is the more open the apeture, the less depth of field you have, so for a given lens to increase bokeh, open up the aperture (and stop down the shutter speed).
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