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  1. #16

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    Great Camera! I have the Canon EOS 50D.

    As others have said, just read books, online forums and basically snap away and experiment. The beauty of digital photography!

    I am still at amateur level, but finally got my head around the basics of aperture (f Ė AV) and exposure (TV), then when you have that clear in your mind. Move onto ISO. Just never used the camera in AUTO!

    Once you get addicted (which you will!) Lens make a huge difference depending on what you subject area will be taking ohotos in (portrait, landscape, sports). If doing sports, high shutter speed will come into it, but as less light will enter the sensor, a bigger aperture is required. So more expensive lens (F4, F2.8 etc.) are required.

    If you havenít got the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 mkii Lens already, get it! You wonít be disappointment. Fantastic lens for the money. About £99 new, or £50-60 second hand.

    Buy Canon EF 50mm f/1.8II Standard Lens online at John Lewis
    Ffordes Photographic

    I am currently using a 24-105mm f4 L IS lens, itís a very popular, and amazing all-rounder lens (although not cheap ~£600 second hand!)

  2. Thanks to MYK-IT from:

    RabbieBurns (22nd March 2013)

  3. #17


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    Those look pretty good. For long exposure on a tripod you can eliminate some risk of camera shake by using the self timer to trigger the shot instead of pressing the release. Use different ISO settings to allow you to test different apertures to see if/how that is affecting sharpness.

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    RabbieBurns (21st March 2013)

  5. #18

    LosOjos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RabbieBurns View Post
    Ive already got a tripod, those waves shots were using the tripod, the ISO set to auto, and then experimenting with various settings for whatever the other numbers are.
    This may not be a concern right now, but later down the road you might remember this. The Canon 40D, when set to auto ISO, will never use an ISO less than 400. Unfortunately, ISO 400 is about the limit of the camera before you start getting quite noticeable noise in your shots. The higher the ISO, the quicker you can make an exposure (good for low light situations or fast moving subjects) but the more grain you'll get. ISO 100 is the lowest ISO the 40D is capable of and that will produce the cleanest images. When using a tripod, unless you need a faster shutter because you want to "freeze" the action, ISO 100 will be fine.

    Another recommendation, if you have an Android device, is this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...no.photography
    It isn't free (I don't think it's expensive though) but I found it very handy in the early days.

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    RabbieBurns (21st March 2013)

  7. #19

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    How do you do a really long exposure eg stars moving across the sky? this seems to have a highest setting of 30 which is what that 2nd photo was taken in that has the car headlights as a long stream of light, but I imagine for stars etc it would need to be a lot longer?

    Also, if i was to shoot fireworks in the sky, what kind of settings would I want for that?

  8. #20

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    RabbieBurns (21st March 2013)

  10. #21


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    Quote Originally Posted by RabbieBurns View Post
    How do you do a really long exposure eg stars moving across the sky? this seems to have a highest setting of 30 which is what that 2nd photo was taken in that has the car headlights as a long stream of light, but I imagine for stars etc it would need to be a lot longer?

    Also, if i was to shoot fireworks in the sky, what kind of settings would I want for that?
    Isn't there a Bulb setting? Should show up on manual if you keep selecting for a longer exposure time it eventually reads "B" for bulb. That will keep the shutter open as long as you hold the button (an external cable release is useful as you can lock it in position).

    [EDIT - actually, it may be "B" on the settings dial]!
    Last edited by pcstru; 21st March 2013 at 10:44 AM.

  11. #22

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    When I was learning with a 40d and stuck at home I put a coke can in the shower and played about with shutter priority to change between freezing the water droplets to getting a smooth flow. I found it useful later on when I was photographing streams and waterfalls. Also it gave me a lot of practice at balancing iso/shutter/aperture to cope with the lowish light levels where my shower is.

    I normally use a remote release when tripod mounting my camera. They can be picked up cheap off ebay for £9 ish and you can get slightly more expensive ones that can be set up to automatically trigger the camera ever x seconds etc. for doing time lapse. If your photographing the moon with a long lens I would look at using mirror lockup which moves the mirror on the first press, then takes a picture on the second press, reducing any vibration from the mirror moving.

    From memory with the 40d you keep scrolling past to 30" and BulB is displayed on the top lcd display then you really need a remote release, which you hold the shutter button down for as long as you want the exposure to last for.

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    RabbieBurns (22nd March 2013)

  13. #23


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    Quote Originally Posted by LosOjos View Post
    if you have an Android device
    Another useful app for Canon DSLRs is DSLR Controller.

  14. Thanks to Arthur from:

    LosOjos (21st March 2013)

  15. #24

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    I got into Astrophotography recently and I would highly recommend BackYardEOS amazing for taking LE shots without the need for a separate remote shutter and you can set up a sequence of shots very easily.

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    RabbieBurns (22nd March 2013)

  17. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by PICNIC View Post
    I got into Astrophotography recently and I would highly recommend BackYardEOS amazing for taking LE shots without the need for a separate remote shutter and you can set up a sequence of shots very easily.
    Looks very interesting, but I want to punch whoever came up with the blurb for their website, "-- bar none" is not a valid end to every sentence!

  18. #26

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    DSLR Help-capture.png

    Lightning is something I would like to learn how to photograph as well. We get some pretty spectacular lightning storms here.

  19. #27


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    Quote Originally Posted by RabbieBurns View Post
    Lightning is something I would like to learn how to photograph as well. We get some pretty spectacular lightning storms here.
    It can be pretty easy in the same way that winning at games of chance is. Stop down ISO and aperture to get the longest possible exposure which gives proper exposure for the scene and then keep shooting until you win! If you find your stopped down exposure is a too short, you can underexpose individual frames and then stack them (using an additive algorithm in your favourite image processing program) together to get a proper exposure and use one frame where you have also captured lightning (The lightning will generally be exposed OK even if everything else in the frame is nearly black). Obviously you need to use a rock solid tripod and not have any movement on the camera at all.

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    RabbieBurns (22nd March 2013)

  21. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by RabbieBurns View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Lightning is something I would like to learn how to photograph as well. We get some pretty spectacular lightning storms here.
    For timeing you can probably cheat a little, just rewire one of those remote flashes that detects the main flash to fire so that it triggers a shot, the hardware is really quick, as long as the lighting is close enough to trigger it you should end up with some decent shots.

  22. #29

    RabbieBurns's Avatar
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    Guess I will need to learn adobe photoshop as well as how to use this camera.

    Think I might sign up for a course

  23. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by RabbieBurns View Post
    Guess I will need to learn adobe photoshop as well as how to use this camera.

    Think I might sign up for a course
    Have PMed you.

  24. Thanks to mattx from:

    RabbieBurns (22nd March 2013)

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