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AV and Multimedia Related Thread, New Controller for Smartboard in Technical; Had one of out Smartboard controllers go down and been told that the SC12 controller is the latest replacement for ...
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    TechSupp's Avatar
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    New Controller for Smartboard

    Had one of out Smartboard controllers go down and been told that the SC12 controller is the latest replacement for the original SC9 controller. Has anyone changed one and does the new controller actually help with rubbish alignment issues when you come to write on the board no matter how much you orient it and change the settings? Going to test it on another board when the replacement comes to see if there is any improvement.

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    Yes ive done one on a sb580. They are really easy to change, infact i had to solder one back together as a part of it snapped off with the serial connector. Its strange as changing the controller helped as there was nothing i could do.

    I have got a fix though which might be worth doing and that is to take the board apart and relay the white sheet, ive got a how to guide on here somewhere.

    Just found the email and i needed a sc6 and got quoted on a sc7 which i ended up buying.

    What model board have you got?
    Last edited by timbo343; 26th September 2013 at 10:19 PM.

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    In my experience if the boards contact points are damaged then the controller is irrelevant. If you screw a board to tightly to an uneven wall, then you run the risk of twisting the board and damaging the contacts.

    Just a simple reset on the controller can help with holding correct alignment.

    Also note, if the SC12 has old firmware it can cause visible jumps onscreen when writing in notebook.

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    TechSupp's Avatar
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    Ours is a SB660, surface is not damaged, it's just that it's not that accurate in some areas. Firmware is up to date, latest software (urge! Teachers hate it), registry edits done, reset controller etc, etc so was just wondering. Got to buy one anyway to fix the broken down one.

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    timbo343's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechSupp View Post
    Ours is a SB660, surface is not damaged, it's just that it's not that accurate in some areas. Firmware is up to date, latest software (urge! Teachers hate it), registry edits done, reset controller etc, etc so was just wondering. Got to buy one anyway to fix the broken down one.
    Have you tried relaying the white screen on the board?

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    Quote Originally Posted by timbo343 View Post
    Have you tried relaying the white screen on the board?
    Have you got the guide you mentioned?

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    timbo343's Avatar
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    @laserblazer Here are the instructions..

    One of the boards we did as a P.I.T.A. The left hand side border was really tight and making the mouse stick in one place, so we used a bit of BFI (brute force and ignorance) and pulled the border off the white screen. It turns out the borders are just clipped together. The teacher won't notice this is slightly unclipped, otherwise it meant putting a cheap 15cm ruler inbetween the border and the white screen to stop the border interfering with the mouse this causing the mouse the stop working.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by timbo343; 23rd October 2013 at 11:12 AM.

  8. Thanks to timbo343 from:

    laserblazer (23rd October 2013)

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    Ours are 560s but I need to take the back off one to try and fix a loose connection, so I'll see if it's the same layout.

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    timbo343's Avatar
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    The 500 series are sealed. We tried to dismantle one and didnt get very far. The only thing i think you can do on a 500 series is replace the circuit board. If you find a way to actually take apart the board post back on here i would be interested how you did it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by timbo343 View Post
    The 500 series are sealed. We tried to dismantle one and didnt get very far. The only thing i think you can do on a 500 series is replace the circuit board. If you find a way to actually take apart the board post back on here i would be interested how you did it.
    That's bad news. It's the wires that lead upwards from the controller that are suspect. If the things knackered anyway, I might try a tin-opener or chainsaw!

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